Friday, September 19, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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Smith Claims First Season Event Win in Buzzer-Beater Final Thursday, September 18, 2014 3-to-5-footers at Lowers

Final John John Florence (HAW) vs. Jordy Smith (ZAF) Jordy Smith opened his Final campaign on a tear, stringing together powerful hacks and a closeout tail-slide for a nine-pointer straight off the bat. John John Florence's answer -- a full rotation air followed by a full rotation closeout -- was heard loud and clear and the young Hawaiian found himself a midrange score away from overtaking the lead. But the South African was not ruffled, continuing to attack the lip for scores to keep Florence at bay and he held first position going into the second half of the heat.....
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Don't miss this special engagement: EDDIE WEN’ GO The Story of the Upside Down Canoe! Eddie Would Go! Sept 19-20th and Coinciding with Hōkūleʻa’s round-the-world voyage, this imaginative production uses hula, chant, masks and puppetry to tell of Eddie Aikau’s act of sacrifice through the eyes of sea creatures who watched from underneath the upside-down canoe. Slack key guitar wunderkind Danny Carvalho, has created an original sound scape and will perform it live...Dont miss this special tribute to our Hawaiian Legend: Eddie Aikau. Read the Full Story
Jordy Smith beats John Florence to Win & Stephanie Gilmore wins the Swatcsh Pro! Wednesday's recap: John John breaks away at Hurley Pro Full story coming. Quarters are on. Men's and Women's Finals Day! Surf News Network, 18 September, 2014 - San Clemente in solid 3-4' SSW semi bumpy broken surf. Wednesday:  21-year-old John John Florence (HAW) surfed one of the most flawless heats in ASP history today, sealing a berth in tomorrow’s Quarterfinals and marking himself as the man to beat in the Hurley Pro at Trestles. His near-perfect two wave total of 19.73 eclipsed 11-time World Champion Kelly Slater (USA) and Adriano De Souza (BRA), and stands as the highest two-wave heat total of the competition... Read the Full Story
The surf and ocean community come together... It is International Coastal Cleanup Day on Saturday so we are upping it up a notch and cleaning for the whole fricken weekend!   To keep it basic, details as follows:   Meet at Makua Beach, look for the blue flags Date: September 20th 9:30 AM Check in 10-12 Clean 12-3 Live Music, Games, Prizes, Keiki Activities (including a mermaid!), and more..... Read the Full Story
After all the surf we've had...lets say Thanks together. The Surfrider Foundation is dedicated to the protection and preservation of our world’s oceans, waves and beaches. Founded in 1984 by a handful of visionary surfers, the Surfrider Foundation now maintains over 50,000 members and 63 chapters across the country and around the world. The Oahu Chapter has been working on issues of beach access, water quality, coastal preservation and plastic marine debris. For more information, go towww.surfrider.org/oahu..... Read the Full Story
Day 3 is LIVE for Wednesday. Tuesday recap: Big Names move into round 3 at Hurley Pro Surf News Netork, 16 September, San Clemente - Brazilian Filipe Toledo (BRA) roared to life today, taking to the air and stealing the show during Round 2 of the Hurley Pro at Trestles with the highest scoring ride of the event so far: 9.83 points. After four consecutive lay days, competition resumed at fever pitch and the first eliminations were dealt. Excellent overhead surf offered lengthy rides and saw strong performances by top seeds Gabriel Medina (BRA) and Kelly Slater (USA) to set the tone for what promises to be an event for the history books.... Read the Full Story
Tuesday is Game on for Mens Hurley Pro in 3-5' Trestles! Surf News Network, 16 Sept. The Hurley Pro at Trestles, stop no. 8 of 11 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour, has been called ON today for Round 2 followed by possible Round 3 and in 4 - 6 foot waves. The Swatch Women's Pro Trestles is on standby for the day. "It's looking good this morning," said ASP Commissioner Kieren Perrow. "We saw the ocean fill in over night and there's a lot more consistency today. The waves are great when they come and we are definitely on".... Read the Full Story
Goodbye ASP - Hello World Surf League   The Association of Surfing Professionals is no longer. Well, the name is no longer, at least. Beginning in 2015, the new moniker of the association of surfing professionals is the World Surf League, or WSL. In a letter to the surfing community, ASP/WSL CEO Paul Speaker broke the news. “We understand that for many of you reading this, the letters “ASP” have significant meaning and that this news might be unsettling,” he wrote. “We hope you will give us the benefit of the doubt and that, over time, you will come to see this change as positive for the sport we all love. At the end of the day, professional surfing’s DNA remains intact: we’re about the world’s best surfers in the world’s best waves. That will never change.” Read the Full Story
Next stop on the Stand Up World Tour starts tomorrow in Huntington Beach   The 2014 Huntington Beach Pro Grand Slam will host both Stand Up World Tour Surfing and Stand Up World Series Racing events from the 15th – 21st September in Surf City USA. As the most comprehensive event featuring a star studded line up of the world’s very best athletes, the $45,000 Huntington Beach Pro will be a true showcase of the leading edge of the sport, while celebrating Amateur and youth participation with a large Trials event and Open Racing division, not to mention the Na Kama Kai Youth Challenge (U16) taking place on the final Sunday of the event. Read the Full Story
LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Big SSW fills Saturday peaks Sunday and last into Tuesday. WNW fill to 3' sunday and 4' by Monday BIG SURF PICTURE  9/13/14 Saturday SPAC: The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.   Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below... Read the Full Story
Team Jamie's win the Qiantang Shoot Out
Finals Go off on the Largest Wave in the Event’s History Team Honolulu of Jamie O’Brien and Jamie Sterling took home the $10,000.00 team first prize in the largest “river bore” wave in the Red Bull Qiantang Surfing Shoot Out history with wave sections reaching ten feet.
Read the Full Story
Upsets at Hurley & Swatch Pro this week! Photo: Costa Rican hero Carlos Munoz © ASP/Rowland. Surf News Network, 11 September, 2014 - Wildcards delivered major upsets in the Hurley Pro at Trestles today as Tanner Gudauskas (USA) and Carlos Munoz (CRI) successively defeated top seeds Kelly Slater (USA) and Gabriel Medina (BRA) in non-elimination Round 1. The Swatch Women’s Pro Trestles was equally electric with Lakey Peterson (USA) eliminating reigning two-time ASP Women’s World Champion Carissa Moore (HAW), who will now relinquish her world ratings lead. The women’s Quarterfinalists have been decided after the completion of Round 4.... Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of 'Eddie Wen Go' at Hawaii Theater Friday

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Thursday Sept 18th 4pm Update

Jordy Smith beats John Florence to Win & Stephanie Gilmore is back in the race after Winning the The Swatch Women's Pro: Surf's 3-5' from the SSW.

Clouds and rain squals with light ENE Trades mixing lite convective onshore seabreezes. Low tide was 6am @ .4' pushing up to a 1.8' High tide at 1pm dropping out to a 0.3' Low tide at 8pm.

NORTH: Down and dropping on the 11 second NNW. It's a consistent and smooth 1-2.5' (chest) now at Sunset Pt. and at Rocky Pt and 1-2.5' at Chuns; Pipe 0-2'; everywhere's smooth with some morning sickness & lite offshores for now with seabreezes late morning near midday;  See SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is down and dropping on the SSW and NNW; currently at a glassy 1-2' & smooth-glassy; expect it to mush out with isolated seabreezes late morning to afternoon. Town:  Down and dropping on the 13 sec period S-SSW swell at 1-2 occ 2.5' and still inconsistent for top spots top sets.  Waters perfect with glass to lite offshores at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos and again seabreeze later around 11am and a evening glass off. (check our Bowls-Courts CAM). Diamond Head: Down and dropping on the  SSW at 2-3' with nice light offshores but likely onshores 11am ish then to the evening smooth off. (see SNN Cam). Sandy's: Down and dropping on the South at a nice clean 1-3';  all over and still some powerful shorepound.  East: Makapu'u:  Holding the small below normal NE 0-1 barely 2'  near the shore on the Keiki's side and semi smooth lite onshores. Great diving all windward.

Events, News etc.

Two big beach clean ups this Saturday 1. SurfRiders at Sand Island HERE  2. Sustainable Coastlines out west a Makua (all weekend) HERE.

Dont miss 'Eddie Wen Go'
The story of the upsidedown canoe. (Eddie Aikau) at Hawaii Theater this Friday nite! Eddie Would Go....so....GO HERE

The 8th stop on the  ASP World Tour: John John Florence vs Jordy Smith in the finals of The Hurley Pro at Trestles Tuesday. GO LIVE

Quote of the week: God said you can do itbut didnt say it would be easy Gabriel Medina on the Title.

SNN BIG Picture updated Friday 9/6 Go Here

Local Swell Tracker updated Go Here

The windward side has been tiny, well below average. Watch for a bump for former Hurricane Odile to fill just over 2' Friday-Sunday.

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Thu '09/18'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
clear, clean
Fri '09/19'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Sat '09/20'
Rising - NW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Sun '09/21'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Mon '09/22'
Holding - N-NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Haleiwa
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 11:35 PM 0.8 ft.
L 3:43 AM 0.3 ft.
H 11:49 AM 1.5 ft.
L 5:46 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 12:18 AM 0.9 ft.
L 4:38 AM 0.3 ft.
H 12:29 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:11 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM
Sat '09/20'
Time
Ht.
H 12:53 AM 1 ft.
L 5:24 AM 0.3 ft.
H 1:02 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:34 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:28 PM
Sun '09/21'
Time
Ht.
H 1:25 AM 1.1 ft.
L 6:06 AM 0.2 ft.
H 1:33 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:56 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:20 AM
Sunset: 6:27 PM
Mon '09/22'
Time
Ht.
H 1:56 AM 1.2 ft.
L 6:45 AM 0.2 ft.
H 2:02 PM 1.4 ft.
L 7:18 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:20 AM
Sunset: 6:26 PM

West
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
clear, clean
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Rising - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
tiny 11 sec NW
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2

South
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
clear, clean
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - S
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Holding - S
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
New Big South Monday 29th
Honolulu Harbor
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 12:37 AM 1 ft.
L 5:48 AM 0.4 ft.
H 12:51 PM 1.9 ft.
L 7:51 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 1:20 AM 1.1 ft.
L 6:43 AM 0.4 ft.
H 1:31 PM 1.9 ft.
L 8:16 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM
Sat '09/20'
Time
Ht.
H 1:55 AM 1.2 ft.
L 7:29 AM 0.3 ft.
H 2:04 PM 1.9 ft.
L 8:39 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:28 PM
Sun '09/21'
Time
Ht.
H 2:27 AM 1.4 ft.
L 8:11 AM 0.3 ft.
H 2:35 PM 1.8 ft.
L 9:01 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:20 AM
Sunset: 6:27 PM
Mon '09/22'
Time
Ht.
H 2:58 AM 1.5 ft.
L 8:50 AM 0.3 ft.
H 3:04 PM 1.8 ft.
L 9:23 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:20 AM
Sunset: 6:26 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
clear, clean
Rising Later - E-NE
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3

Winds
Hawaii
Thu '09/18'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Fri '09/19'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Sat '09/20'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Sun '09/21'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Mon '09/22'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15
increasing

Current Swells

Thu '09/18'
Primary : N-NW / Dropping , 1-3' isolated
Secondary : S / Dropping , 1-2.5'
Third : NE / Holding , 0-2'

Marine Warnings

Thu '09/18'
Hawaii : None but Box jelly Fish & Extreme UV ratings pack the Bull Frog.

Sailing Report

Thu '09/18'
Hawaii : Poor-Fair early and improving with Light trades filling to good 5-15mph with a mix of Leeward seabreezes late morning-afternoon.

Diving Report

Thu '09/18'
Hawaii : Best is out East and West; fair for north dives (swell); fair/good for deep south.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset N-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Pipeline N-NW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Rocky Point N-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Haleiwa N-NW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Oahu - Makaha COMBO 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth am...mushy pm

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 1- to 3-feet Knee to Head Light Trades good

Oahu - Makapuu N-NE 1- to occ. 2-feet Knee to occ. Waist Light Trades semi-clean

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO Flat- to 2-feet 0 to Waist Light Trades smooth

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - East - Hana E-NE 1- to occ. 2-feet Knee to occ. Waist Light Trades fair to good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei N-NW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE 1- to occ. 2-feet Knee to occ. Waist Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast N-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades smooth

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 1- to 3-feet Knee to Head Light Trades good

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Sep 18, 2014 6:57 AM HST

Update
Island skies have cleared early this morning with land breezes pushing most clouds and showers offshore. Expect increasing clouds late this morning and through the afternoon with a chance of showers.

Synopsis
Weak high pressure north of the area will keep light trades across the islands during the next few days. Seabreezes will develop with clouds and showers returning each afternoon and evening, especially over leeward and interior areas. The light winds will also keep generally warm temperatures across the area. Increasing moisture south of the islands may bring an increase in rainfall over the Big Island late in the weekend.

Discussion
Weak sfc high pressure remains located far N of the aloha state, keeping weak trades across the area through at least Sat. A mid/upper level ridge is also located N of the island chain. This synoptic scenario will allow for more seabreeze circulations to develop each day, with periods of clouds and showers during the afternoon and early evening hours.

Meanwhile, models remain in fair agreement regarding a cold front passage across the N central Pacific during the next few days. This front will further erode the high N of the aloha state and enhance the seabreezes. Most the resulting shower activity will include leeward and interior areas. The light winds will also allow for volcanic haze to build around the Big Island, but so far it is not expected to reach the smaller islands as the light winds should still remain generally from the E.

For the long range forecast, models show a possible tropical disturbance passing to the S of the islands by Sun, bringing an increase in moisture and showers over the Big Island. Also, the aforementioned front stalls about a couple hundred miles N of the aloha state and gradually dissipates during the weekend. The presence of the decaying front to the N and the tropical feature to the S may cause an increase in pressure gradients across the area which in turn could bring an increase in trade flow by late Sun and into Mon. Regardless of this scenario, the high should begin intensifying early next week with stronger trades returning by tue/wed. This will bring back a trade wind weather pattern of clouds and showers favoring windward and mountain areas, especially at night.

Marine
Small swells will affect almost all shores through the forecast period. A small but new southwest swell with a long period of 15 to 17 seconds will arrive Friday and continue through the weekend. A small swell from the northeast is due in today, peaking Friday. The current northwest swell will be reinforced by another small northwest swell early next week.

Winds will remain light through most of the forecast period. The trade winds will begin increasing early next week.

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
None.

 

BIG SURF PICTURE 

9/13/14 Saturday

SPAC:

The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.

Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below.

Next: Last Sunday a powerful Low tracked ENE under NZL with near hurricane force 65kt winds and seas near 50- 60’! The storm broadened further off the coast as the highest winds and seas weakened. But not before setting up a 1200 miles fetch. When storm have such extreme winds they generate long periods as we’ve seen since Friday: long fat 25 seconds leveling off to 22 sec Saturday and 20 sec Sunday. The swell hts will go from 1’ to 4’ and even 12 hours of 5’ 20 seconds. There will be moments at select reefs of warning level hts of 15’ crest to trough or 8’ local. The North shore can get 10’ from such values as the long periods have extreme refraction and shoaling off the bottom. Note: 20 sec period swell can be felt 1000’ down! This shows us how vital periods are to wave measurement.

Last: No sources of swell over 2’ out through next weekend meaning 2 weeks from now. There are marginal fetches in the Taz Monday 15th and another tiny Low off NZL Friday the 19th. Neither source may get here.

Note: High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough and 15’ for NW swells. Why the large threshold difference is likely an extra safety precaution where populations are greatest.

NPAC

The weak Jet is long and up around 40-50 degrees latitude. There’s some troughs and dips and by next weekend the Jet has a bit more speed and energy going from Japan to the Gulf. We are still in a state of transition.

Currently: the surf is barely 2’ remnants from our 1st real swell of the season that hit near 8’ Tuesday.

Recent: this nice WNW filled late Monday to 6’ and ramped Tuesday from a more NW angle. Source: Storminess Friday the 5th just east of the 180 dateline 1200 miles NW of us. By Saturday she had 30’ seas on the dateline and spun in place (occluded) as she broadened and weakened into Sunday…The result was swell of 5’ 14 seconds.

Next: Former tropical storm Fengshen will bump us up Sunday from the 15 sec WNW at 2-3’ midday and veer NW peaking at 4’ Monday into Tuesday with shorter 12 seconds. The system formed off Taiwan last Sunday the 7th and moved NNE as it broadened and weakend off Japan becoming a cold core Low off the tropics warm core. It then tracked East reaching the dateline Thursday the 11th as it merged and faded with a broad area of Low pressure centered in the Eastern Aleutians.

Last: A tiny weak low tracks east from the dateline this Wednesday and will only pull off some 2’ NW surf Tuesday the 23rd.

Windward side:

Recently and until Friday we’ve see tiny 1’ surf from the light local trades and seabreeze patterns; rare to see it this small this long. Then it’ll kick up from some T Storm action below.

Tropics: T Storm Odile has come into view today Sat. with a NW track and clipping Cabo etc Monday-Tuesday. By Thursday it’s nearly gone but still may shoot out some longer period 3’ East swell around Friday-Saturday the 19-20th.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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