Cholos 728×90 Generic

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SURF N SEA ONLINE 728   5.5.20

Noon Update OBS Tuesday 6/2/20

Another sunny summery day with mostly broken clouds and ligh-moderate ENE Trades. High Surf Adv for South Shores in advance of building swell. Pls Keep Surfing Safe... Mahalo!

SNN BIG PICTURE: Update Tuesday 6.2. Small-moderate S-SSW builds to Big this eve, tiny NNE, and minimal trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Down & Dropping 10sec NNE. Semi clean with some bump and crumble from NE Trades. Sunset Pt and Rocky Pt 0-1'. Pipeline not breaking. Chuns 0-occ 1'; Laniakea 0-1.5' maybe rare weak 2'; Haleiwa 0-1/2' under mostly clear skies.
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West:

Up & Rising long period S-SSW. Makaha is 1-2 occ 2.5' (chest) and breaking behind the reef. expect 4' by this eve (focal reefs). Surf's clean light offshores under fairly clear skies.
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Town:

Up & Rising 18sec forerunner S-SSW with a fading recent South. Surf's clean offshore and getting more consistent. Kewalos to Courts, Kewalos to Courts, Bowls to Kaisers are 2-3' occ slightly higher. Threes, Queens/Canoes/Walls/Publics etc. also 2-3' under partly clear skies. Expect 4' on higher tide and esp by 5pm.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Up and Holding 18sec forerunner S-SSW. Diamond Head is bumpy chunky at 2-3' occ near 4' near Browns under partly cloudy skies. Check SNN Cam.
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Sandy's:

Up and Rising18sec forerunner South + tiny 7sec ENE wind swell + trace NNE wrap. Full Pt to Pipe Littles are 2-4' on South. Generals is cracking 4'. Shorebreak slamming up 2-3' plus with light to mod. side shores under mostly sunny skies. Watch for bigger sets esp by eve.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding small NNE and tiny 7sec ENE wind and pinch of fading NNE swell. Surf's choppy with light to mod. Trades at 1-2', breaking only on the inside and focusing on Keiki's shorebreak under broken clouds.
Cholos 728×90 Generic

Winds

Tuesday
Range:
5-15+mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
5-15+mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-20mph East Trade

Friday
Range:
10-20+mph East Trade

Saturday
Range:
10-25mph East Trade

North

Tuesday
06/02

Primary

Dropping 9s NNE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Rising Later 11s NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
clean

Wednesday
06/03

Primary

Rising 11s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair-Good side-offshore
3' later
Thursday
06/04

Primary

Up & holding 10s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
06/05

Primary

Rising 12s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 9s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good

Saturday
06/06

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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West

Tuesday
06/02

Primary

Rising Slow 18s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 9s NNE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Good
Wednesday
06/03

Primary

Up & holding 16s S
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Rising 11s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good
Thursday
06/04

Primary

Holding 15s S
Haw: 1-3+
Face: 2-5+

Secondary

Up & holding 10s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good
Friday
06/05

Primary

Dropping Slow 14s S
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Rising 12s NNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Good
Saturday
06/06

Primary

Dropping Slow 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
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South

Tuesday
06/02

Primary

Rising Slow 18s S
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
3-5' late afternoon
Wednesday
06/03

Primary

Up & holding 16s S
Haw: 4-6
Face: 6-10

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
isolated reefs
Thursday
06/04

Primary

Holding 15s S
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
06/05

Primary

Dropping Slow 14s S
Haw: 3-4+
Face: 5-7+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Saturday
06/06

Primary

Dropping Slow 13s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Tuesday
06/02

Primary

Dropping 10s NNE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 6s ENE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Choppy

Wednesday
06/03

Primary

Rising 7s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Thursday
06/04

Primary

Up & holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Friday
06/05

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Saturday
06/06

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

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Current Swells:

Tuesday 06/02
Primary: Rising Slow 18s S surf @2-3 occ 4 
Secondary: Dropping 10s NNE surf @1-2 
Third: Dropping 9s NNE surf @1 occ 2 
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Marine Warnings:

Tuesday   06/02
High Surf Adv in advance of rising SSW swell; for all South exposures thru Friday
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Sailing Report:

Tuesday   06/02
Fair to good with lite to moderate ENE Trades for the nxt couple days.
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Diving Report:

Tuesday   06/02
Good for most all North shore zones; good for most deeper West shore zones but South swell building; fair to good for top deeper South shore zones (S swell building; good for isolated inside reefs and good for select outside reefs of Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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