Surf n Sea 728×90 generic 1/22/21

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USED SURFBOARDS-728X90 FEB 8 2021

645am OBS Sunday 4/18/21

Beautiful, crisp, clear morning. Light ENE trades early; breezy later. No marine warnings.

Small-moderate NNW. Small SW. Tiny trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Down & Holding 11 sec NNW, but expecting new, Rising 11 sec NNW shortly. Surf's got a little texture on it this morning with light ENE trades. Sunset Pt 2-4'; Rocky Pt 2-3'+; Pipeline/Backdoor 1-3'; Chuns 2-3'; Laniakea 2-4'; Haleiwa 1-2'+; Clear skies.
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West:

Down & Holding 11 sec NNW + Rising 11 sec NNW + Up & Holding 18 sec SW. Makaha is a mixed plate 1-2' occ 3' breaking inside the reef at times and near glass. Clear skies.
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Town:

Up & Holding 18 sec SW. Surf's clean due to very light offshores. Waikiki reefs are 1- occ. 2'. Ala Moana, Kaisers-Rockpiles & Kewalos are 1-2', w/ 2.5' sets every once in a while. Clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Up & Holding 18 sec SW. Surf is a little textured now under light ENE trades, but inconsistent at 1-2' occ 2.5' (knee-waist occ shoulder high). Mostly clear.
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Sandy's:

Up & Holding 18 sec SW. Surf's got a little wobble on it from the ENE trades. Full Pt-Half Pt is 1-2' occ 2.5'; Shorebreak's looking crunchy 1-2', focusing towards Cobbles/Middles but breaking right on the shore with plenty rocks. Clear skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Up & Holding 11 sec N wrap + tiny 7 sec NE trade swell. Surf's bumpier today with the light to moderate ENE trades, mostly 1' occ 2', out of the north, breaking on the shore with a couple little barrels toward Keiki's. Mostly clear.
CHOLOS NEW HOURS DEC 2020 728X90  12/9-

Winds

Sunday
Range:
5-15+mph ENE Trade

Monday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade

Tuesday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade

Wednesday
Range:
5-10mph Variables
Afternoon sea breezes
Thursday
Range:
5-10mph ENE Trade

North

Sunday
04/18

Primary

Rising Fast 11s NNW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
6' midday
Monday
04/19

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy later

Tuesday
04/20

Primary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising Nightime 15s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Smooth early-mushy later

Wednesday
04/21

Primary

Up & Rising 13s NNW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy midday
6' afternoon
Thursday
04/22

Primary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy later

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West

Sunday
04/18

Primary

Rising Fast 11s NNW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Up & holding 18s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Monday
04/19

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping Slow 16s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Smooth early-mushy later
Tuesday
04/20

Primary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping Slow 15s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Smooth early-mushy later
Wednesday
04/21

Primary

Up & Rising 13s NNW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Dropping 14s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Smooth early-mushy midday
Thursday
04/22

Primary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Up & Rising 18s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Smooth early-mushy later
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South

Sunday
04/18

Primary

Up & holding 18s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Monday
04/19

Primary

Dropping Slow 16s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smoother early-mushier midday

Tuesday
04/20

Primary

Dropping Slow 15s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy later

Wednesday
04/21

Primary

Dropping 14s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising Later 20s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smooth early-mushy later

Thursday
04/22

Primary

Up & Rising 18s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Dropping 13s SW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Smooth early-mushy later

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east

Sunday
04/18

Primary

Dropping 7s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 11s N
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
slightly bumpy
N wrap, 3' afternoon
Monday
04/19

Primary

Rising 6s E
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Dropping 10s N
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair
N wrap
Tuesday
04/20

Primary

Up & Rising 7s E
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping 9s N
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Diving , Paddling
N wrap
Wednesday
04/21

Primary

Up & Rising 9s E
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

Rising 13s N
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Smooth early-mushy later
N wrap, 3' evening
Thursday
04/22

Primary

Up & holding 9s E
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Dropping 11s N
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Fair
N wrap
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Current Swells:

Sunday 04/18
Primary: Rising Fast 11s NNW surf @2-4+ 
Secondary: Up & holding 18s SW surf @1-2 occ + 
Third: Dropping 7s NE surf @0-1.5 
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Marine Warnings:

Sunday   04/18
None
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Sailing Report:

Sunday   04/18
Fair for smaller crafts along Windward and adjacent shorelines from to 5-15+ mph ENE wind
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Diving Report:

Sunday   04/18
Poor for most North shore zones due to rising swell; Fair to good for most top Westside spots; Fair-good for most deeper zones along South shores due to rising swell; Fair to good for most top spots inside and outside reefs along Windward

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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