Surf n Sea 728×90 generic 2.1.20

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SURFBOARD FACTORY HI JAN 30 2020 728

7am OBS Monday Feb 24

Another crisp clear morning. Lite variables with trade flow...chance of midday seabreezes but Trades back late today.

Small NW, small Trade and tiny SSW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Down and dropping 12 sec NW & glassy early. Sunset to Rocky Pt tp Pipe 1-2 occ 3'; Chuns 1-2 barely occ 3', Laniakea about 2'; Haleiwa 2' under clear skies.
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West:

Down and dropping NW/SSW. Makaha is 0-1-2' with clean, glass under clear skies. Onshore seabreezes toward lunch until trades fill back late today.
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Town:

Holding small background 13sec SSW. Kewalos, Courts to Bowls & Kaisers have good glass at 0-1 occ 2'. Queens is clean and offshore at 0-1.5' occ 2' under crisp, clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding SSW. Diamond Head is 1-2' with smooth conditions and clear skies.
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Sandy's:

Down and holding 8sec Trade and 13 sec SSW. Sandy's is fun at 1-2' maybe the odd 2.5' set here and there with super clean texture from Full Pt thru Half Pt. Couple fun peaks still in the shorebreak.
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East Makapu'u:

Dropping 8sec ENE trade swell. Makapu'u is a clean 1-2' breaking mostly inside left-middle under clear skies.
BISHOP MUSEUM SURF EXHIBIT

Winds

Monday
Range:
5-10mph NE Trade

Tuesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
15-30mph NE Trade

Friday
Range:
15-35mph NE Trade

North

Monday
02/24

Primary

Dropping 12s NW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
smooth
Trades back late
Tuesday
02/25

Primary

Rising 11s NNW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

Rising Afternoon 20s NW
Haw: 6-10
Face: 10-18
Fair to good
10' after sunset
Wednesday
02/26

Primary

Dropping 15s NW
Haw: 10-15+
Face: 15-25+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Thursday
02/27

Primary

Dropping 12s NW
Haw: 5-8
Face: 8-14

Secondary

Rising 17s NW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+
Fair to good
5-7'
Friday
02/28

Primary

Holding 15s NW
Haw: 8-12
Face: 14-20

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
windy

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West

Monday
02/24

Primary

Dropping 12s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Dropping 12s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores
Tuesday
02/25

Primary

Rising 11s NNW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Dropping 11s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
Wednesday
02/26

Primary

Dropping 15s NW
Haw: 8-12+
Face: 14-20+

Secondary

Rising Slow 15s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair
Thursday
02/27

Primary

Dropping 12s NW
Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+

Secondary

Holding 14s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
Friday
02/28

Primary

Holding 15s NW
Haw: 6-10
Face: 10-18

Secondary

Dropping 11s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
windy
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South

Monday
02/24

Primary

Dropping 12s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Tuesday
02/25

Primary

Dropping 11s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Wednesday
02/26

Primary

Rising Slow 15s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Thursday
02/27

Primary

Holding 14s S
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Friday
02/28

Primary

Dropping 11s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
Gales
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east

Monday
02/24

Primary

Holding 9s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Tuesday
02/25

Primary

Rising 9s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
FUN

Wednesday
02/26

Primary

Holding 9s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Thursday
02/27

Primary

Holding 9s ENE
Haw: 1-3 occ +
Face: 2-5 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Friday
02/28

Primary

Rising 9s ENE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

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Current Swells:

Monday 02/24
Primary: Dropping 12s NW surf @1-2 occ 3 
Secondary: Holding 9s ENE surf @1-2+ 
Third: Dropping 12s S surf @1 occ 2 
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Marine Warnings:

Monday   02/24
No Watches or Warnings
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Sailing Report:

Monday   02/24
Poor with lite and variable winds tho' improving this evening with Trades returning for the long haul.
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Diving Report:

Monday   02/24
Fair-good for deep North shore zones. Good for deeper West shores top zones. Good for South zones. East is good for inside reefs and fair to good for outside reefs.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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