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SURFBOARD FACTORY HI JAN 30 2020 728

640am OBS Sunday 7/5/20

Mostly clear this morning with some scattered showers over coastal waters. Calm winds becoming ESE < 15mph. No advisories or warnings expected through the Weekend.

Small South/SSW and minor Trade swell hold. North shore is flat. Big tide swings (Spring tides) again today with a minus low mid-morning and fat high in the late afternoon. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Holding tiny 7 sec NE wrap with beautiful conditions for diving and paddling. Most spots are just flat. Sunset Pt, Rocky Pt, Pipeline and Chun's are all flat. Laniakea 0-1/2'; Haleiwa barely inches under partly cloudy skies.
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West:

Holding 12sec South plus traces of 15sec SSW. Makaha's glassy with inconsistent 2' breaking behind the reef. Maybe a 2.5' wave this morning at focal reefs. Mostly sunny. Sea breezes likely to mush things out by 10am.
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Town:

Holding 12sec South plus traces of 15sec SSW. Kewalos to Courts is clean at 1-2' with very occl. 3' sets at focal reefs. Bowls to Kaisers 1-2' with 3' sets/30min. Threes, Queens/Canoes/Walls/Publics, etc. glassy and 1-2' under mostly clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding 12sec South plus traces of 15sec SSW. Diamond Head is fairly clean at 1-2' with inconsistent 3' sets under light E trades and a few clouds.
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Sandy's:

Holding 12sec South plus a touch of Trade wrap. Full Pt, Generals, and Pipe Littles at 1-2' w/ rare 3' sets. Shorebreak's looking fun at 1-2.5' but slamming close to shore now due to low tide. Surf's pretty clean with light E winds. Partly cloudy.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding tiny 7sec ENE swell. Surf's mostly clean under very light E winds and 1-1.5' breaking on the inside across the bay to Keiki's under partly cloudy skies.
ZEPHYR

Winds

Sunday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade
Afternoon sea breezes
Monday
Range:
10-20mph East Trade

Tuesday
Range:
10-25mph East Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

North

Sunday
07/05

Primary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

Rising late Afternoon 12s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smooth early-mushy midday

Monday
07/06

Primary

Holding 11s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Tuesday
07/07

Primary

Rising 12s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
smooth

Wednesday
07/08

Primary

Holding 10s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Thursday
07/09

Primary

Holding 10s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

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West

Sunday
07/05

Primary

Dropping 12s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smoother early-mushier midday
Monday
07/06

Primary

Holding 11s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 11s NW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
Tuesday
07/07

Primary

Dropping 11s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Rising 12s NW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
Wednesday
07/08

Primary

Holding 10s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 11s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
Thursday
07/09

Primary

Rising Slow 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 10s NW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
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South

Sunday
07/05

Primary

Dropping 12s S
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising 13s SSE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Smoother early-mushier midday

Monday
07/06

Primary

Holding 11s SSE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising Slow 15s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair to good

Tuesday
07/07

Primary

Dropping 11s SSE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising Slow 14s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

Wednesday
07/08

Primary

Holding 11s SSE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Dropping 12s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

Thursday
07/09

Primary

Rising Slow 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 10s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good

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east

Sunday
07/05

Primary

Dropping 7s ENE
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
semi-smooth

Monday
07/06

Primary

Rising 6s ENE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Tuesday
07/07

Primary

Rising 6s ENE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Wednesday
07/08

Primary

Up & Rising 7s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy
3' later
Thursday
07/09

Primary

Up & Rising 7s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy

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Current Swells:

Sunday 07/05
Primary: Dropping 12s S surf @1-2+ 
Secondary: Holding 7s NE surf @0-1/2 
Third: Dropping 7s ENE surf @1-1.5 
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Marine Warnings:

Sunday   07/05
None
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Sailing Report:

Sunday   07/05
Poor: Lite E trades/afternoon sea breezes likely
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Diving Report:

Sunday   07/05
Good for most North shore zones; good for to most West shores zones; nice for most deeper South shore zones; good for isolated inside reefs and good for select outside reefs of Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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