645am OBS Saturday 3/6/21
Scattered showers this morning with clearing later. Moderate NE-ENE trades filling to 10-20+mph. Small Craft Advisory for all waters exposed to trades.
Moderate N + NNW. Small ENE trade swell. Tiny SSW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

North Shore:
Slowly Dropping 13 sec North + 14 sec NNW. Conditions looking rough and confused this morning with moderate NE-ENE trades. Sunset Pt 4-6+'; Rocky Pt 3-5', Pipeline/Backdoor 2-4'; Chuns-Jockos 2-4'+; Laniakea 4-6'+; Haleiwa 2-4' under overcast skies and showers.
West:
Slowly Dropping 13 sec North + 14 sec NNW + Rising 19 sec SSW. Surf's clean under light/good offshores. Makaha is 2-3' and mostly cloudy.
Town:
Rising slow 19 sec SSW. Waikiki reefs are 0-1.5' for now. Ala Moana, Kaisers-Rockpiles & Kewalos are mostly 1 occ 2'. Rain.
Diamond Head:
Rising 19 sec SSW. Surf is 1-2'+ on combo peaks (knee-chest occ shoulder high) and slightly bumpy due to moderate trades. Cloudy with showers.
Sandy's:
Holding 13 sec NE + Dropping 14 sec N wrap + Down & Dropping 8 sec trade wrap + Rising 19 sec SW. Surf's fairly clean and consistent this morning w/ good wind direction. Full Pt-Half Pt are 2-3+'; Shorebreak's 2-3'. Mostly cloudy with rain.
East Makapu'u:
Holding 13 sec NE + Dropping 14 sec N wrap + Down & Dropping 8 sec ENE trade swell. Surf's 2-4', and breaking on the outside left. Keikis is up to 3'+. Overcast skies with rain.Winds
10-25mph ENE Trade
15-25+mph ENE Trade
15-30mph East Trade
15-35mph East Trade
15-35mph ENE Trade
North
Primary
Dropping Afternoon 13s NHaw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+
Secondary

Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Fair
Isolated focal reefs
Primary

Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+
Secondary
Rising Nightime 17s NNWHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair to good
Isolated focal reefs
Primary
Up & Rising 16s NNWHaw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
3' later
Primary
Up & holding 14s NHaw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
West
Primary
Dropping Afternoon 13s NHaw: 2-5
Face: 3-8
Secondary
Up & Rising 19s SSWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair
Primary

Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary
Up & holding 17s SSWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
Up & Rising 16s NNWHaw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Fair to good
Primary
Up & holding 14s NHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Secondary

Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
South
Primary
Up & Rising 19s SSWHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary
Up & holding 17s SSWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
east
Primary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary

Haw: 4-6
Face: 6-10
bumpy
Primary

Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary

Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
bumpy
Primary

Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy
Primary
Rising Fast 9s ENEHaw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Chunky
5' later
Primary
Up & Rising 11s ENEHaw: 4-6
Face: 6-10
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Rough
8' eve

Current Swells:
Saturday 03/06Primary: Dropping Afternoon 13s N surf @4-6+
Secondary: Holding 8s NE surf @1-2+
Third: Up & Rising 19s SSW surf @1 occ 2

Marine Warnings:
Saturday 03/06Small Craft Advisory for all waters exposed to trades.

Sailing Report:
Saturday 03/06Good to excellent due to 10-25mph ENE trades.

Diving Report:
Saturday 03/06Poor for for most North shore zones due to NNW swell; Fair to good for most deeper West shorelines; Fair to Good for select South shore zones; Poor along Windward zones
Oahu
Maui
Kauai
Big Island
Weather
Surf Advisory and Warning CriteriaLocation/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
Big Picture
INACTIVE.Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9
Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)
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