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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic

645am OBS Monday 2-19 Powered by Surf n Sea

Overcast, hazy and wet with scattered showers; temps lower 60's on NS sea level! Light & variable with an East flow with a chance of seabreeze toward mid-day pending land heating/cloudiness.

BIG PICTURE: Sunday Evening Update 2/18. Small-moderate rising NW, tiny trace SSE, and new trade swell. Call 596-SURF 7a, 12, 3, 5pm recap-forecast.

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North Shore:

Up & rising 14-16 sec NW. Surf is currently 2-4' (with 5' maybe occ. 6' later). Good shape & light offshore. Calm to light East flow veering more light onshore after mid-day. 7am Sunset to Rocky Pt 2-3' occ 4', Pipe-Backdoor 2-3+' & Chuns 3' occ. 4'; Laniakea 3+' Ali'i Beach Park 2-3' under overcast skies.
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West:

Up & rising NW. Surf is 2-3' with some 4' later. Conditions smooth with calm to offshore trades and light onshore coming. Sets are slightly inconsistent. Nice shape and long lines early when sets come. Day3 for Buffalo Big Board Surf Classic-42 is ON. Fairly clear skies!
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Town:

Up & Holding the tiny 14 sec SSE. Surf is 0-1 rare 2' and glassy with slow sets; weak shape but barely breaking for most spots from Ala Moana to Kaisers. Threes-Pops-Queens mostly 0-1.5' occ higher sets under broken clouds.
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Diamond Head:

Up & holding background SSE. Surf is 0-1' occ. 2' and glassy early with weak shape. Light and variable early shifting to seabreezes toward mid-day; under mostly cloudy skies.
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Sandy's:

Down & holding the tiny SSE. Surf is 1-2' and breaking mostly inside with tiny closeout shorebreak. Smooth early with calm-light variables shifting toward seabreezes toward mid-day; under plenty clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Up & Rising 9 sec ENE wind swell. Surf is 1-3' trying to get to the outside and filling on the inside sandbar. Conditions smooth, turning slightly bumpy with mid-day sea breezes; under broken clouds.
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Weather

Monday
with="64"

Temp
min:
69°F
max: 84°F

Clear

Wind:
3mph SSW

Tuesday
with="64"

Temp
min:
70°F
max: 86°F

Clear

Wind:
8mph ESE

Wednesday
with="64"

Temp
min:
72°F
max: 86°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
8mph NE

Thursday
with="64"

Temp
min:
73°F
max: 87°F

Thunderstorm

Wind:
13mph ENE

Friday
with="64"

Temp
min:
74°F
max: 86°F

Thunderstorm

Wind:
8mph E

Range:
5-10mph East Trades very light
to variable to seabrz
Range:
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes

Range:
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes

Range:
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes

Range:
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes

North

Monday
02/19
NW
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +
Rising
2' 16 sec; 4' 15 later; clean offshore, fairly clear
Tuesday
02/20
NW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Dropping
3.5' 14 sec
Wednesday
02/21
W-NW
Haw: 5-7+
Face: 8-12+
Rising
5' 16 sec
Thursday
02/22
W-NW
Haw: 5-8
Face: 8-14
Dropping
6' 15s
Friday
02/23
W-NW
Haw: 5-7
Face: 8-12
Dropping
5' 14 sec
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West

Monday
02/19
NW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Rising
4' later; glassy, clear: Buffalo Big Board day3
Tuesday
02/20
NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Dropping

Wednesday
02/21
W-NW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+
Rising

Thursday
02/22
W-NW
Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+
Holding

Friday
02/23
W-NW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Dropping Slow

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South

Monday
02/19
COMBO
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Rising
.5' 14 sec; clean, fairly clear
Tuesday
02/20
SSE+SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Dropping

Wednesday
02/21
SSE+SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Dropping

Thursday
02/22
SSE+SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Holding

Friday
02/23
SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Rising Slow
.8' 18s
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east

Monday
02/19
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Rising
5' 9s; smooth, fairly clear
Tuesday
02/20
NE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Holding
7' 10s
Wednesday
02/21
NE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Holding

Thursday
02/22
E-NE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Holding
7' 9sec
Friday
02/23
E-NE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Holding
7' 9sec
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Current Swells:

Monday   02/19
Primary: Rising  NW  2-4' occ. 5' surf early afternoon at 15 sec
Secondary: Rising  E-NE  1-3' surf at 9 sec
Third: Holding  S-SE  0-1 barely occ 2' surf at 14 sec
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Marine Warnings:

Monday   02/19
None
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Sailing Report:

Monday   02/19
Poor-fair with light E winds veering variable then light onshores
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Diving Report:

Monday   02/19
Stay out of remnant Brown Water. Fair for deeper boat dives for North shores; Fair-good for deeper dives out West and improved for South. fair-good to good for isolated 'inside' reefs along East or Windward.

Oahu

SUNSET
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7
Variables to sea-breezes
good

ROCKY POINT
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7
Variables to sea-breezes
good

Pipeline
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7
Trades very light
good

HALEIWA
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Variables to sea-breezes
smooth am...mushy pm

MAKAHA
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 1-3 occ +
Face: 2-5 occ +
Variables to sea-breezes
smooth am...mushy pm

ALA MOANA
Monday   02/19
S-SE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Variables to sea-breezes
good

Waikiki
Monday   02/19
S-SE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Calm to seabreezes
fair to good

Diamond Head
Monday   02/19
S-SE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Variables to sea-breezes
smooth

Sandy Beach
Monday   02/19
ENE+SSE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Variables to sea-breezes
good

Makapuu
Monday   02/19
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Variables
smooth

Maui

Hookipa
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Variables
smooth
near higher later
Honolua
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Variables
good

Kihei
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Variables
smooth am...mushy pm

Hana
Monday   02/19
E-NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Variables
smooth

Lahaina
Monday   02/19
S-SE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Variables
smooth am...mushy pm

Kauai

Hanalei
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Variables
smooth

Majors
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Variables
smooth am...mushy pm

Poipu
Monday   02/19
S-SE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Variables
smooth

Kapaa
Monday   02/19
E-NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Variables
smooth

Big Island

Hamakua Coast
Monday   02/19
NW+NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Calm to light
smooth

Kohala
Monday   02/19
NW
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Calm to light
smooth am...mushy pm

Kona
Monday   02/19
COMBO
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Calm to light
smooth am...mushy pm

Hilo
Monday   02/19
E-NE
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Calm to light
smooth

Kau
Monday   02/19
COMBO
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Variables to sea-breezes
smooth

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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