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SURF N SEA ONLINE 728  1.31.24 10pm

7am OBS, Happy Aloha Firday, Apr. 12th

Overcast, rain and scattered thunderstorms. Lite to moderate ESE winds filling in by afternoon. Small Craft Advisory for Maui-Big Island channel and Big Island leeward & SE waters. Some T-storms could be severe with frequent lightning. Use caution.

Slowly rising long period SW. Average ENE trade wind swell. Micro NNW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Dropping 10 sec NNW. Funky side-onshore winds this morning w/ better ESE winds filling in 10-15mph this afternoon. Small and weak. Sunset 1-2'; Rocky Pt 1-occ. 2'; Pipe 0-1'; Chuns/Jockos 1-occ. 2'; Laniakea 1-2'; Ali'i Beach Park 0-1'. Rain w/ lightning.
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West:

Dropping 10 sec NNW + Slowly Rising 20 sec SW. Mostly clean w/ lite ESE winds. Makaha is 0-1'. Rain w/ lightning.
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Town:

Slowly Rising 20 sec SW. Semi clean w/ lite ESE winds. New groundswell is due, but it's mostly just SE wind swell for now. Waikiki reefs are 0-1'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 1-1.5'. Rain w/ lightning.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Slowly Rising 20 sec SW. + Dropping trade swell wrap. Poor to fair w/ moderate sideshore ESE winds. Surf's 1-2'. T-storms.
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Sandy's:

Slowly Rising 20 sec SW + Dropping trade swell wrap. Surf's pretty torn up over the reefs under moderate sideshores. Full Pt/Half Pt are 2-3'. Shorebreak is 1-3' on a fun sandbar focused from Middles to Gas Chambers. Mostly cloudy.
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East Makapu'u:

Dropping 8 sec East trade wind swell. Mushy w/ moderate ESE winds. Surf's a consistent 2-3' and breaking by the rocks and in the middle. Keiki's is smaller at 1-2'+ with a nice sandbar. Overcast.
PACIFIC DIAMOND 728×90 2.1.23>>6.25.23   off 11.28

Winds

Friday
Range:
5-15+mph ESE

Saturday
Range:
5-15mph East Trade
veering South
Sunday
Range:
10-20mph South

Monday
Range:
5-7mph Variables

Tuesday
Range:
5-10mph NNE

North

Friday
04/12

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Saturday
04/13

Primary

Rising Slow 10s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Sunday
04/14

Primary

Rising 18s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Monday
04/15

Primary

Up & Rising 14s NW
Haw: 6-8+
Face: 10-15+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smoother early-mushier midday
near 10' later
Tuesday
04/16

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 6-8+
Face: 10-15+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

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West

Friday
04/12

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Rising Slow 20s SW
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores
Saturday
04/13

Primary

Up & holding 18s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising Slow 10s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair
Sunday
04/14

Primary

Holding 18s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 18s NNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Good early , fair later
Monday
04/15

Primary

Up & Rising 14s NW
Haw: 5-7
Face: 8-12

Secondary

Holding 16s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Smoother early-mushier midday
Tuesday
04/16

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+

Secondary

Up & holding 15s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good early , fair later
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South

Friday
04/12

Primary

Rising Slow 20s SW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Saturday
04/13

Primary

Up & holding 18s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
turning SSW
Sunday
04/14

Primary

Holding 18s SSW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Monday
04/15

Primary

Holding 16s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Rising 19s SSE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Poor onshore

Tuesday
04/16

Primary

Up & holding 15s SSE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising 19s SW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Poor onshore
2'+ later
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east

Friday
04/12

Primary

Dropping 8s E
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
slightly bumpy

Saturday
04/13

Primary

Dropping Slow 8s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair early , Better Later

Sunday
04/14

Primary

Dropping 8s E
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Monday
04/15

Primary

Dropping 8s E
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

Rising 14s N
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair
N wrap; 2.5' later
Tuesday
04/16

Primary

Holding 8s E
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping 12s N
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Fair
N wrap
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Current Swells:

Friday 04/12
Primary: Dropping 8s E surf @2-3 
Secondary: Rising Slow 20s SW surf @1-1.5 
Third: Dropping 10s NNW surf @1 occ 2 
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Marine Warnings:

Friday   04/12
Small Craft Advisory for Pailolo Channel, Alenuihaha Channel, and Big Island leeward & SE waters. T-storms with frequent lightning.
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Sailing Report:

Friday   04/12
Fair for with ESE trades filling 10-20mph but very poor weather.
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Diving Report:

Friday   04/12
North shores: Best bet deeper zones. Good for most areas due to small surf and nice offshore E trade winds. West shores: good for most zones due to small surf and light to moderate offshores. South shores: Fair-good overall for prime zones due to small surf and lite to moderate trade winds filling. East shores: Fair due to near average surf and moderate side onshore trades.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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