635am OBS, Sunday, Dec. 3rd
Calm morning with sunny skies for Leeward and increased cloud coverage for Windward. Trades continuing to fill w/ a chance of isolated Leeward sea breezes again today. High Surf Advisory for North adn West facing shores of Ni'iihau through Maui.
BIG PICTURE UPDATED. Solid holding mid-period NW. Holding small E trade swells. Tiny, filling SW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

North Shore:
Up & Holding 17 sec NW. Lite offshore E-ENE trades, similar to yesterday. Sunset 6-8'+; Rocky Pt 4-6'+; Pipe 6-8'+; Chuns 4-6'+; Laniakea 6-8'+; Ali'i Beach Park 4-6'+. Mostly cloudy skies.
West:
Up & Holding 17 sec NW + tiny 18 sec SW. Clean w/ lite offshores; bumpy onshore sea breeze mix this afternoon. Makaha is 3-5'; Mostly sunny skies.
Town:
Up & Rising 18 sec SW (peaking mid-day). Clean conditions with calm conditions early; isolated sea breeze mix expected by lunch. Waikiki reefs are Flat-occ. 1'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are Flat-1.5', but 2' sets expected by lunch. Mostly sunny skies.
Diamond Head:
Up & Rising 18 sec SW (peaking mid-day) + minor trade wrap. Clean conditions with calm conditions early, becoming bumpier as trades fill. Surf's mostly 1-occ. 2' at take-off and inconsistent. Mostly sunny skies.
Sandy's:
Up & Rising 18 sec SW + E trade swell wrap. Mostly clean now w/ near calm winds, becoming bumpy with sideshore trades filling. Full Pt/Half Pt are 1-2' from the trade wrap. Shorebreak is also 1-2' and looking fun; Mostly sunny skies.
East Makapu'u:
Holding 8 sec E trade swell. Semi-clean early with the lite trades, becoming bumpy as trades fill. Surf's 1-2' w/ some breaking on the outside left and across the bay. Partly cloudy skies.Winds
5-15mph ENE Trade
isolated Leeward sea breeze mix
10-20mph ENE Trade
NE tilt
10-20+mph ENE Trade
15-25+mph East Trade
5-15mph South
North
Primary
Up & holding 17s NWHaw: 6-8+
Face: 10-15+
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Primary

Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+
Secondary

Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Fair to good
Primary
Up & holding 16s NNWHaw: 8-12+
Face: 14-20+
Secondary

Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Fair-Good side-offshore
Primary

Haw: 6-8
Face: 10-15
Secondary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Good offshores
Primary

Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Secondary
Up & holding 12s NHaw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Fair
West
Primary
Up & holding 17s NWHaw: 5-7
Face: 8-12
Secondary
Up & Rising 18s SWHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Primary

Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Secondary
Dropping Slow 15s SWHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary
Up & holding 16s NNWHaw: 6-10
Face: 10-18
Secondary
Dropping Slow 14s SWHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair-Good side-offshore
Primary

Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+
Secondary
Dropping Slow 13s SWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
Primary

Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Secondary
Up & Rising 16s SSWHaw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair
South
Primary
Up & Rising 18s SWHaw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
2' afternoon
Primary
Dropping Slow 15s SWHaw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary
Dropping Slow 14s SWHaw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary
Dropping Slow 13s SWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
Rising Slow 18s SSWHaw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Poor-fair side-shores
Primary
Up & Rising 16s SSWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Poor onshore
east
Primary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
slightly bumpy
Primary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary
Rising Late Evening 20s NHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
bumpy
Primary
Up & holding 10s ENEHaw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Secondary
Up & holding 16s NHaw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Lumpy , Bumpy, Grumpy
N wrap
Primary

Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary

Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Choppy
N wrap
Primary

Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
bumpy

Current Swells:
Sunday 12/03Primary: Up & holding 17s NW surf @6-8+
Secondary: Holding 8s E surf @1-2
Third: Up & Rising 18s SW surf @1-1.5

Marine Warnings:
Sunday 12/03High Surf Advisory for North adn West facing shores of Ni'iihau through Maui

Sailing Report:
Sunday 12/03Fair w/ lite ENE trades of 5-15mph.

Diving Report:
Sunday 12/03North Shore: Poor due to sizable NW swell, no-go for most spots. West shores: Poor due to solid NW swell, no-go for most spots. South shores: Fair to good for most zones due to lite offshore trades and tiny-small surf. East shores: Poor to fair for most zones with onshore trades and near average size surf.
Oahu
Maui
Kauai
Big Island
Weather
Surf Advisory and Warning CriteriaLocation/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
Big Picture
INACTIVE.Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9
Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)
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