Cholos 728×90 Generic

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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic 1/22/21

1pm UPdate OBS Saturday September 18th.

Breezy and partly cloudy with moderate to fresh trades of 15-25 mph. Small Craft Advisory for all waters remains..

SNN BIG PICTURE:  Friday 9/17. Looking GOOD! Rising small WNW. Dropping small SSW; average trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Holding 8 sec NE wrap + Rising 15 sec WNW-NW. Moderate+ ENE trades. Sunset Pt-Rocky Pt mostly 0-1' occ. 2'. Pipe/Backdoor 0-1' . Chuns 0-2'. Laniakea 0-1.5' and Haleiwa mostly flat - 1'. Expecting the new NW to rise throughout the day w/ poss. 3' by this evening into Sunday. Scattered-broken clouds.
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West:

Down and Dropping 14 sec SSW + Rising 15 sec NW. Makaha is clean with moderate/fresh offshores but surfs micro at 0-1' occ. 2' on the mixed plate. Expecting NW to fill in more by this afternoon under a few clouds.
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Town:

Down and Dropping 14 sec SSW. Waikiki is clean w/ moderate-fresh side offshores. Surf is super lully with lotsa sitting at 1-2' for Queens, Canoes etc. Top reefs: Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are clean w/ 1-2 occ 2.5' on select sets under mostly clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down and Dropping 14 sec SSW. Blown and blustery in typical DH form. Surf's 1-2' occ 3' on combo peaks under partly cloudy skies.
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Sandy's:

Down and Dropping 14 sec SSW + trade wrap. Bump chunky fresh paced sideshore trades. Full Pt-Half Pt 1-3'. Shore break's 1-2 occ 3' looking best on combo peaks under fairly cloudy skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Up and Holding 8 sec ENE trade swell. Moderate-fresh ENE trades and super choppy. 1-2' occ. 3' breaking throughout the Bay; mostly shorebreak. Keiki corner is 1-2.5' under broken clouds.
Upper Cervical Hawaii 728×90

Winds

Sunday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Monday
Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

Tuesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

North

Sunday
09/19

Primary

Holding 14s NW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising 18s N
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good

Monday
09/20

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Up & holding 13s N
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores

Tuesday
09/21

Primary

Rising 18s NNW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Holding 11s N
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores

Wednesday
09/22

Primary

Up & holding 14s NNW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Dropping 10s N
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Smooth Am-mushy Pm

Thursday
09/23

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

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West

Sunday
09/19

Primary

Holding 14s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Dropping Slow 13s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
Monday
09/20

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising Slow 19s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
Tuesday
09/21

Primary

Rising 18s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising Slow 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores
Wednesday
09/22

Primary

Up & holding 14s NNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Holding 17s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Smooth Am-mushy Pm
Thursday
09/23

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping Slow 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores
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South

Sunday
09/19

Primary

Dropping Slow 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising 20s SW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good offshores

Monday
09/20

Primary

Rising Slow 19s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 9s SSE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores

Tuesday
09/21

Primary

Rising Slow 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Smooth Am-mushy Pm

Wednesday
09/22

Primary

Holding 17s SSW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Thursday
09/23

Primary

Dropping Slow 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

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east

Sunday
09/19

Primary

Up & holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Monday
09/20

Primary

Dropping 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Tuesday
09/21

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth Am-mushy Pm

Wednesday
09/22

Primary

Rising 7s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising 13s N
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth Am-mushy Pm

Thursday
09/23

Primary

Up & Rising 7s ENE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth Am-mushy Pm

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Current Swells:

Sunday 09/19
Primary: Up & holding 8s ENE surf @1-3 
Secondary: Holding 14s NW surf @1-2 occ 3 
Third: Dropping Slow 13s SSW surf @1-2 
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Marine Warnings:

Sunday   09/19
Trend: Poss. Small Craft Advisory for Ka'iwi Channel and All Maui-Big Island waters.
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Sailing Report:

Sunday   09/19
Trend: Good early with 10-20 mph ENE Trades and some open ocean swell.
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Diving Report:

Sunday   09/19
Trend: North Shore: Fair to Good (esp. for deeper zones) w/ semi smooth conditions and tiny surf for shallow waters and brisk offshore winds; West: good esp. for deeper dives with small South swell and clean offshores; South shores: Fair w/ holding south swell for shallow waters; better for deeper dives and select prime zones. East shores: Fair for some inside and overall poor for outside reef zones w/ moderate-strong trades filling in strong and and small choppy waters.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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