650am OBS Saturday, June 3rd
Partly cloudy this morning with light ENE trades filling to moderate paces. No marine warnings.
Big Picture updated 6/1. Rising small SW-SSW + Small fading SSW. Small ENE trade swell. Trace of NNE. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

North Shore:
Down and dropping micro-NE trade wind wrap for focal reefs. Clean conditions with lite ENE trades. Sunset Pt 0-1/2'; Rocky Pt 0-1/2'; Pipe Flat; Chuns 0-1/2'; Laniakea 0-1'; Ali'i Beach Park Flat. Another good diving/fishing/sailing day. Scattered clouds.
West:
Rising 20 sec SW-SSW + Down and Dropping 13 sec SSW. Surf's clean and glassy w/ light offshore winds for now. Makaha is 0-1.5' and breaking behind the reef. Partly cloudy.
Town:
Rising 20 sec SW-SSW + Down and Dropping 13 sec SSW. Inconsistent but clean and glassy w/ lite offshore ENE trades filling. Waikiki reefs are 0-1.5'; Top spots: Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 1-occ. 2'. Partly cloudy.
Diamond Head:
Rising 20 sec SW-SSW + Down and Dropping 13 sec SSW + tiny trade wrap. Fair conditions w/ only a little bump from the light ENE trades. Surf's 1-2' waist high drop under partly cloudy skies.
Sandy's:
Rising 20 sec SW-SSW + Down and Dropping 13 sec SSW + tiny trade wrap. Semi-clean with lite side-offshore ENE trades. Full Pt/Half Pt are 1-2'. Shorebreak's 1-2' and dumping. Partly cloudy skies.
East Makapu'u:
Dropping 7 sec ENE trade swell. Fair w/ light ENE trades this morning, becoming more bumpy/mushed out by breezy trades nearing lunch into the afternoon. Surf's 1-occ 2' and breaking along the shore and across the bay. Partly cloudy.Winds
10-20mph ENE Trade
10-20+mph ENE Trade
10-20mph ENE Trade
10-20mph East Trade
10-25mph East Trade
North
Primary

Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Primary

Haw: 0
Face: 0
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Primary

Haw: 0
Face: 0
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Primary
Rising Slow 8s NNWHaw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Primary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good
3' later
West
Primary
Rising Slow 20s SWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary

Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores
Primary
Up & holding 18s SWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores
Primary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary
Dropping Slow 16s SWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
Rising Slow 8s NNWHaw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Fair
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good
South
Primary
Rising Slow 20s SWHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary

Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Good offshores
Primary
Up & holding 18s SWHaw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Secondary

Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Good offshores
Primary

Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Secondary
Up & holding 14s SSEHaw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Fair to good
Primary
Dropping Slow 16s SWHaw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Secondary
Dropping Later 13s SSEHaw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Fair
Primary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair
east
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
slightly bumpy
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Primary
Rising Slow 5s ENEHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Primary
Up & holding 6s ENEHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Mushy
Primary
Up & holding 7s ENEHaw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Current Swells:
Saturday 06/03Primary: Rising Slow 20s SW surf @1 occ 2
Secondary: Dropping 7s ENE surf @1 occ 2
Third: Dropping 7s NE surf @0-1/2

Marine Warnings:
Saturday 06/03None

Sailing Report:
Saturday 06/03Good overall w/ light to moderate to locally fresh ENE trades filling to 10-20mph.

Diving Report:
Saturday 06/03North Shore: Good (best for deeper zones) with near flat surf, light to moderate side offshore ENE trades and mostly sunny skies. West shores: Good for most zones esp best for deeper dives with tiny surf, lite offshore winds and mostly clear skies. South shores: Fair (best for deeper zones) due to small to moderate surf; side-offshore trades filling in; mostly clear skies. East shores: Fair for most zones with small surf, moderate onshore winds and partly cloudy skies.
Oahu
Maui
Kauai
Big Island
Weather
Surf Advisory and Warning CriteriaLocation/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
Big Picture
INACTIVE.Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9
Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)
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