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HONOLULU SURF FILM FEST 2019

645am Obs Tuesday July 23rd

Fairly cloudy morning but clearing with moderate ENE trades increasing to fresh paces (10-25mph) esp windward & adjacent shorelines; broken clouds to overcast for Windward/Mauka. Small craft advisory for channels Maui-Big Is.

SNN BIG PICTURE: Monday 7/22. Pray 4 Surf. Today, A small Taz SW & moderate ENE trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Holding a tiny NE trade wind wrap: paddling, diving... Sunset Pt. mostly flat like most reefs. Laniakea occ 1' on inside reef. Haleiwa flat all under broken clouds.
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West:

Up & Holding 14 sec SW. Makaha is 0-1' occ 2' behind the reef with smooth offshores under semi-cloudy skies.
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Town:

Up and rising 14 sec SW. Surf is fairly clean 1-2.5' but the trades are East from Kewalos to Courts, Bowls to Kaisers; Canoes-Queens are mostly 1-2' sets under 10% blue.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Up and rising SW + Trade swell. Surfs 1-2.5' (maybe occ. 3' or head high at take-off). Moderate-Fresh paced side bump with crumbly whitewater sections rolling through the lineup under broken clouds.
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Sandy's:

Up and Holding mix plate of small SSW and ENE wind swell. Surf is bumpy 2-3' and fair sandbars with peaky: Middle Peaks-Cobbles to Gas Chambers providing the most playful closeout sections under broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding the moderate 8sec wind swell. Makapu'u is choppy onshore 2-3' w/a chance of occ near 4' outside left to the middle...and fair-fun overall with small inside closeouts providing fun inside mini-ramp sections all under overcast-broken clouds.
Bethel Union 728×90

Winds

Tuesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Friday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Saturday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

North

Tuesday
07/23

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Wednesday
07/24

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Thursday
07/25

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin

Friday
07/26

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Offshore

Saturday
07/27

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin

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West

Tuesday
07/23

Primary

Rising 16s SSE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Wednesday
07/24

Primary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair-Good side-offshore
Thursday
07/25

Primary

Dropping 13s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Friday
07/26

Primary

Dropping 12s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Saturday
07/27

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0

Secondary

Holding 11s SSE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin
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South

Tuesday
07/23

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Holding 12s SSE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair to good

Wednesday
07/24

Primary

Rising 16s SSE
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 12s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

Thursday
07/25

Primary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising Slow 15s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Fair-Good side-offshore

Friday
07/26

Primary

Dropping 13s SSE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 14s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Fair to good

Saturday
07/27

Primary

Dropping 12s SSE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Dropping 13s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

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east

Tuesday
07/23

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Wednesday
07/24

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Thursday
07/25

Primary

Dropping 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Onshore

Friday
07/26

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Saturday
07/27

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

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Current Swells:

Tuesday 07/23
Primary: Holding 8s ENE surf @2-3 
Secondary: Holding 14s SSW surf @1-2 occ 3 
Third: Holding 8s NE surf @0-1/2 
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Marine Warnings:

Tuesday   07/23
Small Craft Adv for channels of Maui and Big Is
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Sailing Report:

Tuesday   07/23
Good with moderate to isolated fresh ENE trades
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Diving Report:

Tuesday   07/23
NS: Diving is good for North shores; good for West shore + fair for select South shore zones; fair for a few 'inside reefs' and poor for 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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