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Cholos 728×90 Generic

630am OBS, Wednesday, June 19th

Scattered-broken clouds. Moderate ENE trades filling to fresh paces by mid-morning. Small Craft Advisory for Maui channels & windward and Big Island leeward + SE waters.

Big Picture updated 6/16. Average ENE trade wind swell. Tiny South and NW is gone. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Down and holding minor trade wind swell wrap. Mostly clean with slight texture due to side-offshores. Sunset 0-1'; Rocky Pt 0-1'; Pipe 0-1' lapping on sand; Chuns 0-1'; Laniakea 0-1'; Ali'i Beach Park 0'. Partly cloudy skies.
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West:

Down and Dropping 13 sec SSE. Surf's clean under breezy offshores. Makaha is 0- occ 1' right on the shallow inside reef. A few clouds.
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Town:

Down & Dropping 13 sec SSE. Clean offshores. Waikiki reefs are 0-1.5'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 0-1-occ. barely 2'. Partly cloudy skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down & Dropping 13 sec South + Holding trade wind swell wrap. Choppy with moderate to fresh paced sideshores. Surf's weak 1-2' at takeoff. Scattered clouds.
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Sandy's:

Down & Dropping SSE + Holding trade wind swell wrap. Pretty torn up over the reefs under moderate to fresh sideshores. Full Pt/Half Pt are 1-2'+. Shorebreak is more manageable at 1-3'. Broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding 8 sec ENE trade wind swell. Typical lumpy, bumpy under moderate to fresh onshores. Surf's mostly 1-3' and mushing in from the outside left near the rocks. Keiki's is smaller at 1-2'. Broken clouds.
GNARWALL FIRE SALE 5.6-31

Winds

Wednesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Friday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Saturday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Sunday
Range:
15-30mph ENE Trade

North

Wednesday
06/19

Primary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Rising Later 12s WNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Thursday
06/20

Primary

Up & holding 10s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Friday
06/21

Primary

Dropping 9s WNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Saturday
06/22

Primary

Holding 11s WNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Rising 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Sunday
06/23

Primary

Holding 11s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Up & holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

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West

Wednesday
06/19

Primary

Dropping 13s SSE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
Thursday
06/20

Primary

Up & holding 10s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 17s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Friday
06/21

Primary

Dropping 9s WNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 16s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Saturday
06/22

Primary

Up & holding 17s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 11s WNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
Sunday
06/23

Primary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 11s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
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South

Wednesday
06/19

Primary

Dropping 13s SSE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Thursday
06/20

Primary

Holding 17s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 11s SE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair

Friday
06/21

Primary

Holding 16s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 19s SSE
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair

Saturday
06/22

Primary

Up & holding 17s SSE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Holding 14s SW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair to good

Sunday
06/23

Primary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 14s SW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair to good

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east

Wednesday
06/19

Primary

Up & holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Thursday
06/20

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy

Friday
06/21

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Very Bumpy

Saturday
06/22

Primary

Rising 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Very Bumpy

Sunday
06/23

Primary

Up & Rising 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy , Bumpy, Grumpy
4' later
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Current Swells:

Wednesday 06/19
Primary: Up & holding 8s ENE surf @1-3 
Secondary: Dropping 13s SSE surf @1 occ 2 
Third: Holding 7s NE surf @0-1 
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Marine Warnings:

Wednesday   06/19
Small Craft Advisory for Kaiwi Channel, Maui County windward waters, Maalaea Bay, Pailolo Channel, Alenuihaha Channel, and Big Island leeward and SE waters.
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Sailing Report:

Wednesday   06/19
Good with fresh ENE trades of 15-25mph.
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Diving Report:

Wednesday   06/19
North shores: Good due to tiny surf and moderate to fresh offshore trades; West shores: Good to Excellent for shallow zones, even better for deeper dives due to tiny surf with moderate to fresh offshore trades. South shores: Fair to good for most zones, best bet for deeper dives... with tiny surf and moderate to fresh side-offshores. East shores: Poor-fair for most zones early due to near average 3' surf and fresh trades.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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