SURFBOARD FACTORY HAWAII FEB 2019 GENERIC LONG

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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic

645am Obs Wednesday Sept 18th

Light East Trades with some isolated SE flow. Trades should fill 10-20 under scattered to Broken clouds with small craft adv for channels of Maui and Big Is.

SNN BIG PICTURE UPDATE: Wednesday 9/18 is looking good esp for Town. Today: Small SW and East swell + tiny NW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Holding tiny 13 sec NW. Surf is super clean lite offshore and stirring up to occ 2' at isolated reefs. Sunset Pt. and Rocky Pt. and Chuns are 0-1-2', Laniakea 0-1' maybe occ 2' & Haleiwa is 0-1.5' under broken clouds.
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West:

Holding 16sec SW plus the NW up to 2' off and on. Makaha is light offshores but onshores likely later. Surf's 0-1' occ 2' sets. Focal Reefs up to chest or 1-2.5' local size under scattered clouds.
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Town:

Holding a small 16sec SW (1.5' swell). Surf's still decently semi smooth side offshore at 1-2' occ 2.5' even 3' at isolated reefs: Kewalos, Magic Island, Bowls, and Kaisers look fun; Canoes-Queens are waist-chest high under scattered to broken clouds.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding SW and dying SSW. Surf's crumby and mushy due to trade (and almost a south wind) in at 1-2.5' range... mostly Waist to shoulder high. Semi-clear. See SNN CAM.
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Sandy's:

Holding the Taz SW Down and dropping SSW + along with trade swell. Sets are 1-2-3'. Middle Peaks to Chambers. Fair conditions with the lighter East trades filling to 10-20 under broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding the small 8sec East trade wind swell. Makapu'u is semi bumpy 1-2.5' and crumbling with some outside left and mostly inside close to shore with Keiki side a bit less 2' solid energy under broken to overcast skies.
Pico 728 Windward 4/11/19

Winds

Wednesday
Range:
5-15+mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
5-15+mph ENE Trade

Friday
Range:
5-15+mph NE Trade

Saturday
Range:
5-15+mph NE Trade

Sunday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade
veering variable then seabreezes

North

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Holding 13s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good

Thursday
09/19

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
09/20

Primary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 9s W
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair-Good side-offshore
WSW
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Dropping 9s W
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
WSW
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Rising 15s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

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West

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Holding 13s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 17s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Good
Thursday
09/19

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 16s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Friday
09/20

Primary

Holding 15s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Offshore
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Good offshores
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising 15s NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
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South

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Holding 17s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

Thursday
09/19

Primary

Holding 16s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Offshore

Friday
09/20

Primary

Holding 15s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising 9s WSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Offshore

Saturday
09/21

Primary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Holding 9s WSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores

Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Holding 8s E
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Thursday
09/19

Primary

Rising Later 11s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Average
former Hurr. Kiko
Friday
09/20

Primary

Holding 11s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Typical
former Hurr. Kiko
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Dropping Slow 10s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair to good
former Hurr. Kiko
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 9s E
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair to good

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Current Swells:

Wednesday 09/18
Primary: Holding 17s SW surf @1-2 occ 3 
Secondary: Holding 13s NW surf @1 occ 2 Secondary: Holding 8s E surf @1-2 
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Marine Warnings:

Wednesday   09/18
Small Craft Adv for Maui and Big Is channels
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Sailing Report:

Wednesday   09/18
Fair to good with light to moderate ENE trades
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Diving Report:

Wednesday   09/18
Good for most dive zones along North Shores; good dives for select West shore spots + fair to good for select deep South shore spots (Swell surging) and... good for 'inside reefs' and fair-good for select 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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