SURFBOARD FACTORY HAWAII FEB 2019 GENERIC LONG

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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic

645am Obs Thursday the 17th

Sketchy weather with scattered rain up North and Windward/Mauka. ENE Trades light filling to moderate to fresh. Small Craft Adv for Maui to Big Is channels.

North & West shores are up a notch and South shores are small. East is up a hair at 1-2.5'. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Up and Holding the former Typhoon Hagibis swell which is sent this WNW-NNW when it became extra tropical. Smooth lite-mod offshores. Sunset Pt. to Rocky Pt. 1-3' and Pipe-OTW mostly 0-2' and Chuns 1-2.5'; Laniakea tops 2-3' & Haleiwa 1-2.5' under plenty clouds and occ. rain.
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West:

Holding 2 swells:13 sec SSW (2') + 15s WNW (2'). Makaha is smooth lite offshore ENE trades and 1-2' occ plus' at focal reefs under broken clouds.
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Town:

Down & Holding the 13 sec SSW. Good cond. with light side-offshore ENE trades and1-2' occ 2.5' at focal reefs: Kewalos-Courts and Bowls to Kaisers; Canoes-Queens are a little smaller at mostly 0-1-2' under broken clouds.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down and Dropping 13 sec SSW. It's a bit bumpy today and it's going to get chopped out. Surf's 1-2.5' on take offs under broken clouds. See SNN CAM.
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Sandy's:

Down and Holding the SSW + Up a hair and holding the small 8sec East swell....decent side offshore at 1-2.5' mostly focusing toward Gas Chambers...mostly shore break action under broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Up a Notch and Holding an 8sec ENE wind swell. Makapu'u is bumpy 1-2.5' & smaller toward Keiki... mostly inside shore break but some cracking outside left and cloudy.
Cholos 728×90 Generic

Winds

Thursday
Range:
5-15mph ENE Trade
Filling to fresh
Friday
Range:
5-15mph ENE Trade
Filling to fresh
Saturday
Range:
5-10mph ENE Trades light-moderate
filling to moderate
Sunday
Range:
5-7mph Variables
SE flow + late am seabreeze
Monday
Range:
5-15mph ENE Trade
Trades returning

North

Thursday
10/17

Primary

Up & holding 13s NNW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Rising Later 15s WNW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Fair to good

Friday
10/18

Primary

Rising 13s N
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Dropping 13s WNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair to good

Saturday
10/19

Primary

Dropping 11s N
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising 12s NNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Good

Sunday
10/20

Primary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Monday
10/21

Primary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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West

Thursday
10/17

Primary

Up & holding 13s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Friday
10/18

Primary

Rising 13s N
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising Slow 15s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Saturday
10/19

Primary

Dropping 11s N
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Sunday
10/20

Primary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3

Secondary

Up & holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Monday
10/21

Primary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
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South

Thursday
10/17

Primary

Dropping 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
10/18

Primary

Rising Slow 15s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Saturday
10/19

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy late-morning

Sunday
10/20

Primary

Up & holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 13s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smooth early-mushy late-morning

Monday
10/21

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

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east

Friday
10/18

Primary

Up & holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Saturday
10/19

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Sunday
10/20

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
slightly bumpy

Monday
10/21

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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Current Swells:

Thursday 10/17
Primary: Up & holding 13s NNW surf @2-3 

Third: Dropping 13s SSW surf @1-2 occ + 
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Marine Warnings:

Thursday   10/17
Small Craft Advisory for channels Maui-Big Is
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Sailing Report:

Thursday   10/17
Fair to Good mid morning as ENE Trades fill from Light to moderate to fresh 10-25mph
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Diving Report:

Thursday   10/17
Still cloudy with some off and on rain and fair divies for isolated deeper spots for North facing Shores; good for select deeper dives along West shore spots + good for select deeper South shore diving spots (minor Swell surges) and... Fair-good for select 'inside reefs' and poor- fair for all 'outside reefs' along Windward shores

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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