HONOLULU SURF FILM FEST 2019

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Bethel Union 728×90

645am Obs Wednesday July 17th

Another Nice Summer morning with mostly clear skies for Leeward & scattered to broken clouds for Windward/ Mauka. Light to moderate ENE trades filling up to fresh/strong paces by 9 or 10am (15-30 mph); small craft advisories for all waters.

Small to Moderate fading SSW and ramped up ENE... Recent Full Moon's extreme tides from -0.1 at 930am to the fat 2.3' at 5p affecting consistency and size. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Mostly flat...traces of 8sec windwrap on shallow reef sections. Fairly clean conditions with light-moderate side-offshores filling to fresh. Beautiful day for paddling, diving... Sunset Pt. to Haleiwa barely 0-1/2' all under scattered clouds.
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West:

Down & Dropping 14sec SSW. Makaha: 1-2.5' or chest high every 40 min, and smooth behind da reef; light-moderate offshores filling fresh under clear skies.
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Town:

Down & Dropping 14sec SSW. Surf is inconsistent again, mostly 2-3' per 30-40 min (maybe occ higher later on the higher tide). Clean side-off and fair to good form for top reefs from Kewalos to Courts, Bowls to Kaisers; Canoes-Queens are mostly 2-3' sets under fairly clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down & Dropping 14sec SSW. Surf has some morning sickness at mostly 2-3' per 20-30minutes. Bigger possible on the tide push esp our afternoon higher tide. Fair overall but bumpy from moderate to fresh side-off ENE trades under scattered clouds.
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Sandy's:

Down & Dropping SSW with some Trade mix. Surf is semi bumpy 2-3 occ occ 4' with some decent ones to hunt down on the good sandbars: Middle Peaks-Cobbles to Gas Chambers under passing clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Up and Holding the small 8 sec East. Makapu'u is a choppy 1-3' just outside of left with some closeout short break all under broken clouds.
GTH INSTA 728 4.7.19

Winds

Wednesday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Friday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Saturday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Sunday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

North

Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
clean, Partly cloudy
Thursday
07/18

Primary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair side-offshores

Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Saturday
07/20

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin

Sunday
07/21

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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West

Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Dropping 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Thursday
07/18

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 11s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Saturday
07/20

Primary

Holding 10s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Sunday
07/21

Primary

Rising Slow 16s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
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South

Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Dropping 14s SSW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Thursday
07/18

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 11s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Saturday
07/20

Primary

Holding 10s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Sunday
07/21

Primary

Rising Slow 16s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Rising 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Average

Thursday
07/18

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Onshore

Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Saturday
07/20

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Sunday
07/21

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Onshore

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Current Swells:

Wednesday 07/17
Primary: Dropping 14s SSW surf @2-3 
Secondary: Rising 8s ENE surf @1-2 occ 3 
Third: Holding 8s NE surf @0-1/2 
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Marine Warnings:

Wednesday   07/17
small craft adv for all waters
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Sailing Report:

Wednesday   07/17
Good with moderate to isolated fresh-strong ENE trades
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Diving Report:

Wednesday   07/17
NS: Diving is good for North shores; fair to good for deeper West shore zones (lingering South Swell); + poor-fair for most all South shore zones; fair-good for a few 'inside reefs' and poor-fair for 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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