HONOLULU SURF FILM FEST 2019

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Bethel Union 728×90

645am Obs Monday July 15th

Nice morning with mostly clear skies for Leeward & broken clouds with occ. isolated showers for Windward/ Mauka. Light to moderate ENE trades filling to moderate to fresh (10-25 mph). Above High surf advisory for South shores...Small craft advisories for channels.

SNN BIG PICTURE: Friday 12th. Advisory level SSW and small ENE... Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Holding 8sec trace NE. Clean conditions with light-moderate side-offshores. Beautiful day for paddling, diving... Sunset Pt. to Haleiwa barely 0-1/2' all under scattered clouds.
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West:

Up and Holding16sec SSW. Makaha: 2-4' (+/40 min?) and smooth with nice shape; light-moderate offshores filling under clear skies.
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Town:

Up and holding 16sec SSW. Surf is mostly 4-5' occ 6' and firing when sets roll. Clean side-off and good form for top reefs from Kewalos to Courts, Bowls (a little slow) to Kaisers; Canoes-Queens are mostly 3-5'+ under fairly clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Up and holding 16sec SSW. Surf is mostly 4-5' occ 6' and pumping on sets. Bigger possible on higher tide. Large drops into fast, crumbling sections. Fair-good overall with just a little bump from moderate side-off ENE trades under scattered clouds.
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Sandy's:

Up and holding 16sec SSW. Surf is semi bumpy 4-6' with nice shape early. Solid double overhead sets outside, current toward blow hole; hollow closeout sections from Generals to Middle Peaks-Cobbles to Gas Chambers under passing showers and clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding the small 8 sec East. Makapu'u is a choppy 1-2' just outside of left with some closeout short break all broken clouds.
Pico 728 Right hander 4-11-19

Winds

Monday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Tuesday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Friday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

North

Monday
07/15

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
smooth
clean, Partly cloudy
Tuesday
07/16

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Thursday
07/18

Primary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair side-offshores

Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

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West

Monday
07/15

Primary

Holding 16s SSW
Haw: 2-4 occ 5
Face: 3-6 occ 8

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Tuesday
07/16

Primary

Dropping 15s SSW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Thursday
07/18

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 7s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 11s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
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South

Monday
07/15

Primary

Holding 16s SSW
Haw: 3-5 occ 6
Face: 5-8 occ 10

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Above Adv: Isolated +
Tuesday
07/16

Primary

Dropping 15s SSW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Thursday
07/18

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 11s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Monday
07/15

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
onshore, broken clouds
Tuesday
07/16

Primary

Rising Later 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Wednesday
07/17

Primary

Rising 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Average

Thursday
07/18

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Onshore

Friday
07/19

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

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Current Swells:

Monday 07/15
Primary: Holding 16s SSW surf @3-5 occ 6 
Secondary: Holding 8s ENE surf @1-2 
Third: Holding 8s NE surf @0-1/2 
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Marine Warnings:

Monday   07/15
Above High surf advisory for South shores...small craft adv for channels near Maui and Big Is.
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Sailing Report:

Monday   07/15
Good with moderate to isolated fresh ENE trades
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Diving Report:

Monday   07/15
NS: Diving is good for most North shore zones; Poor for West shore zones (BIG South Swell); + POOR Dangerous for South shore zones; fair-good for a few 'inside reefs' and poor-fair for 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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