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Seaspecs April 2018 Matt

645a OBS Tuesday April 25th Pwrd by Upper Cervical Hawaii

Moderate to Fresh ENE trades filling 15-25mph. Scattered clouds Leeward & mostly cloudy for Windward/ Mauka. Small craft advisory for channels.

BIG PICTURE Update Monday 4/23. Faded small NNW, holding small SW & average ENE trade swell. Call 596-SURF 7a, 12, 3, 5p recap-forecast.

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North Shore:

Brown Water: Waimea. Down-dropping 11 sec NNW. Sorta bumpy side to slde-off. Clearer skies. Sunset to Rocky Pt is 1-2.5' or chest high; Pipe/Backdoor 2', Chuns 1-2.5'; Laniakea 1-2+, Ali'i Beach Park up to 2' & brisk NE Trades are filling in.
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West:

Down-dropping NW + holding small SW. Makaha is 0-1-2' max with smooth brisk offshores filling under clear skies.
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Town:

Holding 12-15sec SSW. Surf's 1-2' very occ. 2.5' and clean offshore with fair form and decent energy for Kewalos to Kaisers. Threes-Pops-Queens-Publics mostly 1-2.5' under scattered clouds.
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Diamond Head:

Holding SSW + background wind wrap. Surf is 1-2.5 maybe occ 3' on takeoffs and semi-torn later due to fresh-gusty ENE Trades coming under scattered clouds.
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Sandy's:

Holding the mix of ENE + inconsistent SSW. Surf's 1-2 occ 3' w/ brisk ENE trades creating some sideoff bump; Full Point-Pipe littles decent shape and up to about 3' and some good peaks in shorepound. Generals occ revealing the SSW. Middle Peaks-Gas Chambers has some sandbar, broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding the moderate 8 sec ENE. Surf is choppy 1-2-3' with moderate-fresh ENE. Top sets breaking just outside on the left with some ramp/barrel sections for the inside sandbar. Slightly smaller 1-2.5' toward Keiki's under broken clouds.
BIG CITY DINER MARCH-MAY 2018

Weather

Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

Range:
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes
to SW to W to N
Range:
5-15mph NNE
post front passage
Range:
5-15mph Kona WSW

Range:
5-10mph SW Kona

North

Thursday
04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising Midday
2' 15s 2pm
Friday
04/27
NW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+
Holding
5' 14s
Saturday
04/28
NW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Dropping Fast
4' 11s
Sunday
04/29
NW
Haw: 8-10+
Face: 12-18+
Rising Fast
12' 12s; nearby Low, storm surf
Monday
04/30
NW
Haw: 8-12
Face: 14-20
Holding
11' 14s
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West

Thursday
04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Rising Midday

Friday
04/27
NW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Rising

Saturday
04/28
NW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Dropping Fast

Sunday
04/29
NW
Haw: 4-8
Face: 6-14
Rising Fast
close interval, light side-onshore
Monday
04/30
NW SSW
Haw: 5-8
Face: 8-14
Rising
+new SSW
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South

Thursday
04/26
SSE+SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Rising
1.3' 15 sec + recent SW
Friday
04/27
SSE+SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Holding

Saturday
04/28
S-SW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising

Sunday
04/29
S-SW
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +
Rising
2' 15s
Monday
04/30
S-SW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Holding
2' 14s
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east

Thursday
04/26
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Dropping

Friday
04/27
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding
SW offshore Kona's later
Saturday
04/28
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding
North winds post front passage
Sunday
04/29
ENE+N
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Rising

Monday
04/30
ENE+N
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Holding

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Current Swells:

Thursday   04/26
Primary: Rising Later  NW  TREND: 1-3' surf at 15 sec
Secondary: Holding  E-NE  TREND: Surf is 1-2-3' at 8 sec
Third: Holding  S-SW  TREND: Surf to be 1-2.5' @ 14 sec
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Marine Warnings:

Thursday   04/26
Improving but still some Isolated dirty water + moderate ENE trades dropping
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Sailing Report:

Thursday   04/26
Good with Moderate ENE Trades and decent weather
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Diving Report:

Thursday   04/26
Isolated Brown water run off for many shores but improving; fair for most deeper North zones & good for isolated deeper West dive zones. Fair for select inside reefs for Windward shores and fair-good for isolated deeper south shores

Oahu

SUNSET
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
fair to good
TREND:
ROCKY POINT
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
fair to good
TREND:
Pipeline
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Trades moderate-fresh
fair to good
TREND:
HALEIWA
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
Side-Offshore
TREND:
MAKAHA
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
ENE Trades light-moderate
good
TREND:
ALA MOANA
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
ENE Trades light-moderate
fair to good
TREND
Waikiki
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
ENE Trades light-moderate
good
TREND
Diamond Head
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
ENE Trades light-moderate
fair to good
TREND:
Sandy Beach
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate
Side-Offshore
TREND
Makapuu
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate
TYPICAL
TREND

Maui

Hookipa
Thursday   04/26
N-NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
bumpy
TREND
Honolua
Thursday   04/26
N-NW
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Trades moderate
good
TREND:
Kihei
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Trades moderate
good
TREND:
Hana
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Trades moderate
choppy
TREND
Lahaina
Thursday   04/26
S-SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Trades moderate
good
TREND:

Kauai

Hanalei
Thursday   04/26
N-NW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Trades moderate
good
Remnant Dirty Water
Majors
Thursday   04/26
NW+SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades moderate
good
TREND: Remnant Dirty Water
Poipu
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Trades moderate
good
TREND: Remnant Dirty Water
Kapaa
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate
choppy
TREND: Remnant Dirty Water

Big Island

Hamakua Coast
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1-3 occ +
Face: 2-5 occ +
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
choppy
TREND:
Kohala
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 0
Face: 0
ENE Trades moderate
good
TREND:
Kona
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades light-moderate
good
TREND:
Hilo
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Trades moderate
choppy
TREND:
Kau
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
bumpy
TREND: SW+ENE

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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