Surf News Network

530am OBS Monday, June 27th

A picturesque morning with scattered clouds. Breezy ENE trades filling to moderate to fresh paces towards midday. High Surf Advisory for South and West facing shores. Small Craft Advisory for Molokai-Big Island channel waters.

Big Picture updated 6/26. Solid South. Small NE and ENE trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

North Shore:

Dropping 10 sec NE. Almost glassy conditions but a slight texture on the water from the light trades. Sunset Pt 0-1/2'; Rocky Pt 0-1/2'; Pipe/Backdoor Flat; Chuns 0-1'; Laniakea 0-1'; Ali'i Beach Park Flat under partly cloudy skies.

West:

Holding 15 sec South. Makaha is clean w/ light offshores. Surf's 2-3' occ. + on the sets for now. Focal reefs up to 4'+. Mostly clear skies.

Town:

Holding 15 sec South. Clean offshores w/ glassy patches early as ENE trades begin to fill in. Surf's inconsistent with 15-25 min lulls but multiple waves per set. Waikiki reefs are 2-3' occ. 4' when the sets come; Top spots: Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 3-4' occ. 5'. Mostly clear skies.

Diamond Head:

Holding 15 sec South with minor NE wrap. Waves are semi-clean with the lighter trades. Surf's 3-4' occ. 5' when the sets come but inconsistent. Browns is up to 6'. Mostly clear skies.

Sandy's:

Holding 15 sec South with tiny NE wrap. Semi-clean with breezy sideshore trades and looking best in the shorebreak. Full Pt-Half Pt holding at 2-4' occ 5' on the sets. Generals occasionally breaking at 5'. Shorebreaks 3-4' with nice peaks over the sandbar but treachurous backwash. A few clouds.

East Makapu'u:

Dropping 10 sec NE + Holding minor ENE swell. Mushy with the light-moderate onshores. Surf's 1-2' occ. + mostly breaking near the shore with occasional sets on the outside left mushing into shorebreak. Keiki's is barely 1-2' under scattered clouds.

Winds

Monday

Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Tuesday

Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Wednesday

Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

Thursday

Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Friday

Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

North

Monday

06/27

Primary

Holding 6s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Dropping 10s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Tuesday

06/28

Primary

Rising 7s NNE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Wednesday

06/29

Primary

Up & holding 7s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Thursday

06/30

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Friday

07/01

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

West

Monday

06/27

Primary

Holding 15s S
Haw: 1-3+
Face: 2-5+

Secondary

Holding 6s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Tuesday

06/28

Primary

Up & Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

Rising 7s NNE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Wednesday

06/29

Primary

Dropping 15s S
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +

Secondary

Up & holding 7s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Thursday

06/30

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday

07/01

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

South

Monday

06/27

Primary

Holding 15s S
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

Rising Later 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good

Tuesday

06/28

Primary

Up & Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Wednesday

06/29

Primary

Dropping 15s S
Haw: 3-5 occ +
Face: 5-9 occ +

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Thursday

06/30

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday

07/01

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

east

Monday

06/27

Primary

Rising 6s ENE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 10s NE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Choppy

Tuesday

06/28

Primary

Up & Rising 7s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Wednesday

06/29

Primary

Up & holding 7s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy

Thursday

06/30

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy

Friday

07/01

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Lumpy-Bumpy

Current Swells:

Monday 06/27
Primary: Holding 15s S surf @3-5+
Secondary: Rising 6s ENE surf @1-2 occ +
Third: Holding 6s NE surf @0-1

Marine Warnings:

Monday 06/27
High Surf Advisory for all South and West facing shores. Small Craft Advisory for Molokai-Big Island channel waters and Big Island leeward waters.

Sailing Report:

Monday 06/27
Good as 10-20 mph ENE Trades fill by mid-late morning.

Diving Report:

Monday 06/27
North shores: Good to excellent due to tiny trade wrap and light-moderate offshores filling along with partly cloudy skies; West shores: Fair overall due to the S swell stirring things up, best for deeper dives. South shores: Poor due to solid S swell stirring things up and side-offshore winds. East shores: Fair for select zones due to small wind swell and moderate trades.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)