Bethel Union 728×90

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SURFBOARD REPAIR HAWAII

Early EVE Recap Obs Monday Aug 19th

Gorgeous Bright Day. Moderate ENE trades filled in with No Advisories. But that's changing.

Small old SSW. New slowly rising long period SSW, holding tiny ENE and slowly easing tiny WNW ( former Typhoon Krosa)...Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Slowly Dropping 13 sec West-WNW swell. Surf is 1-2' mostly but Rocky's had a 3' surge on high tide today. This will fade. Sunset Pt to Rocky Pt. 1-2+' Chuns 0-1-2', Laniakea 0-1 occ. 2', Haleiwa flat-2' under mostly clear skies.
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West:

Down and dropping recent SSW and Wester. Up and Rising 22-sec forerunners on new SSW. Makaha is 1-2+' with smooth off-shores but inconsistent under blue skies.
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Town:

Down & dropping recent SSW and the West. New 20 sec forerunners on new SSW. Surf is clean and still 1-2' occ 2.5' with fair-good shape for top sets; mod. offshore NE trades from Kewalos to Courts, Bowls to Kaisers; Canoes-Queens are mostly 1-2.5' with clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down & dropping recent SSW and Wester. New 20 sec forerunners on new SSW. Surfs getting fatter and more pwr 1-2 occ. 2.5' with bumpy whitewater sections rolling through the lineup under partly cloudy skies.
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Sandy's:

Down & dropping mix of SSW + trade wind swell; the new BIG SSW building but not showing much. Surf is 1-2-3' breaking at Middle Peaks-Cobbles to Gas Chambers and Pipe Littles playful with moderate sideshore bump early. Sandbars seeing small closeout sections under scattered clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Down & holding small 8 sec ENE trade wind swell. Makapu'u is small with bumpy lite onshores at 1-2' breaking inside with scattered to broken clouds.
Pico 728 Windward 4/11/19

Winds

Monday
Range:
5-15+mph NE Trade

Tuesday
Range:
5-15+mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-25mph NE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-20mph NE Trade

Friday
Range:
5-10mph ENE Trade
Late AM seabreezes

North

Monday
08/19

Primary

Dropping 12s WNW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
glass to offshore, clear
Tuesday
08/20

Primary

Dropping 10s WNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Wednesday
08/21

Primary

Holding 9s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy midday

Thursday
08/22

Primary

Rising 11s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth Am-mushy Pm

Friday
08/23

Primary

Rising 12s NW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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West

Monday
08/19

Primary

Dropping 12s WNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Holding 13s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
Tuesday
08/20

Primary

Rising 20s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Dropping 10s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
Wednesday
08/21

Primary

Holding 16s SSW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

Holding 9s WNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
Thursday
08/22

Primary

Dropping Slow 15s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Rising 11s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good
Friday
08/23

Primary

Rising 12s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 14s SSW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Good
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South

Monday
08/19

Primary

Holding 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising early Evening 22s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Good
+West
Tuesday
08/20

Primary

Rising 20s SSW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
4-6+' afternoon
Wednesday
08/21

Primary

Holding 16s SSW
Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Thursday
08/22

Primary

Dropping Slow 15s SSW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
08/23

Primary

Dropping 14s SSW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Monday
08/19

Primary

Dropping 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Tuesday
08/20

Primary

Dropping 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
lite winds
Wednesday
08/21

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
lite ESE
Thursday
08/22

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
lite ESE
Friday
08/23

Primary

Rising Slow 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy
Trades back
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Current Swells:

Monday 08/19
Primary: Holding 13s SSW surf @1-2 
Secondary: Dropping 12s WNW surf @1-2 occ + 
Third: Dropping 8s ENE surf @1-2+ 
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Marine Warnings:

Monday   08/19
None but a High Surf Adv will go up this eve
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Sailing Report:

Monday   08/19
Fair-good mid morn with light to moderate NE trades
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Diving Report:

Monday   08/19
Diving is good for many North Shore zone esp deeper water (some stirring from West swells) and good dives for select 'deeper' West shores + fair-good for deeper South shores (swell surges); fair-good for many 'inside reefs' and fair for 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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