Gerry Lopez + Uluwatu: The More Things Change

“Maybe what yoga & surfing are trying to do is tap into the same energy…the prana or the mana. The Hawaiian’s were doing it through surfing and the yogis were doing it by breathing…” GL In Hindu philosophy including yoga, Indian medicine, and martial arts, prana (प्राण, prāṇa; the Sanskrit word for “life force” or “vital principle”) is all cosmic energy, permeating the Universe on all levels. Prana is often referred to as the “life force” or “life energy“. When Gerry Lopez first surfed Uluwatu …Read More »

This place is NUTZ!

Hawaii gets backwash…take Makaha for example…but there’s nothing quite like this particular wave bouncer. Tom Curren, Kanoa Igarashi and Yadin Nicol take on Sandspit, California’s most notorious breakwall. After last year’s blitz of waves throughout the US West Coast, thanks to El Niño, we thought 2017 might be a bit quieter. Wrong. So far, things have been pretty silly, especially at California’s most notorious sand-bottom breakwall called Sandspit. v

From the Heavy Side of Life to the Lighter Side…Meet Mercedes

  Waimea Bay…don’t look back…. Stoked to be in the water. Image: Gonzo First off, Mercedes is a passionate person who happens to surf. She dreams big and goes big. You get the feeling that no matter what she chose she’d find success. Just after Six years of surfing, she nailed an XXL Big Wave Awards nomination as one of the three best women big wave surfers in the world.  She wasn’t done…. and got nominated again in 2010 and in 2011. But there’s much more …Read More »

A Local Surfer’s Story: Kyle Metcalf

Kyle’s surfed & hung around awhile… Ricky Grigg was his sixth-grade teacher. Working with Fred Hemmings in the Punahou cafeteria. Fred Van Dyke was his seventh-grade science teacher. Peter Cole was Kyle’s Junior Varsity swimming coach. Oh, and hows about swim relays with Jimmy Blears. What, one last thing… While the ‘Father of Modern Day Surfing’ ate breakfast at Tahitian Lanai, Kyle was six years old swimming in the pool;  Legendary Olympian Duke Kahanamoku said he should become a swimmer. Life is good….Here are some photos …Read More »

Does John John Florence Have Cause for Concern?

A great overview of JJF’s position inside & out coming into J-Bay from WSL’s: Ben Mondy Image: Contemplating his loss in Fiji.WSL / KELLY CESTARI Friday, June 23, 2017 Have the wheels come off?  Round Three losses in Brazil and Fiji have cost John John Florence, the reigning World Champion, the significant lead he gained through the Australian leg as well as the Jeep Leader jersey. And while the points given away are a cause for concern for Florence fans, the bigger surprise is the loss …Read More »

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