“I’m dead if I fall”

“At that time, we rode the unrideable”

“Once it’s past a certain level of size…it’s…Big is BIG…”

“On 1st exploring BIG Pe’ahi decades ago: It was like going into space, going to the moon…we didn’t know what was going to happen. Are we going to go into a vortex and just disappear? Are we going to be torn from limb to limb?”

“I was thankful that (the dream, the waves) even existed”

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