Calm in the Storm #1
It’s my birthday today (Aug 21) and I found this pic of Cave Rock, a shallow reef break near Durban – shot by Paul Maartens.
I have been in many tubes in my life. In the 70’s I created a new style for maneuvering inside the tube – riding in, around and on top of the foam ball – the aerated water in the tube. I could focus intently and slow down time and experiment with new lines inside the tube.
When I surfed at my best, in a state of flow, I felt I could curve the wall to my will. I developed a new exit through the tube, a new technique for riding on the backhand at places like Pipeline and a simple escape through the side of the tube that has the inglorious name of escaping through the doggy door.
I was very comfortable inside the tube – I seldom felt fearful, anxiety replaced by an absolute commitment to ride towards the light, through the spinning tunnel of water and an intense focus on the wonder of the situation that was exploding around me.
I often felt a deep sense of quiet calm while riding inside the tube, no consciousness of effort or sound, my entire being like a fluid spear, blending my inner rhythm and that of the wave into a synchronized oneness while driving forward at maximum velocity
But things could quickly go wrong…
(Check out Shaun’s Linkedin HERE)