“No one’s going to do that. That’s absurd.” – Gerry Lopez when first confronted with the idea that people might pay anyone to go surfing.
Mr. Pipeline, Mr. Style, actor, shaper, surfer & snowboarder. Gerry Lopez has lived one of the fullest lives of anyone on the planet, and has stood calm in the eye of the Banzai storm like no-one before or since.
Occy caught up with Gerry at the Billabong house at Pipeline to chat about pioneering the shortboard revolution, surfing G-Land for the first time, and the worst wipeout he ever had at Pipe – literally tearing himself a new one and puncturing his colon.
This interview will have you wishing for the old days, excited for the future and wanting to pack more into your everyday existence.