|4. When was the last time you surfed at Pipeline and what was it like?
Rory and I paddled out for an exhibition once about 8-10 years ago…well, I paddled out; Rory rode the jetski. It was a man on man heat between Kelly and Shane, I think …so I was paddling out with Kelly and here comes a solid 8’+ set, I’m on Kelly’s right side so I’m closer to the shoulder and I’m paddling like hell wondering if I was going to be able to duckdive underneath it before it broke, we were side by side and as I push down underwater, the last thing I see is Kelly whipping around and taking off…I knew right then and there, that my days of surfing the Pipe were truly over.
5. Tips to those who wish to lead a life like yours… which we are assuming is full of yoga, surfing, snowboarding, fun involvement with surf and snow companies, and cool like-minded friends and family!
Try to live a life in harmony with nature that incorporates proper exercise, proper breathing, proper relaxation, proper diet and positive thinking and meditation.
6. Is there one wave you would have loved to surf as a regular footer?
Maalaea on Maui, it was pretty challenging backside.
7. Have you been experimenting with any new designs in the shaping room?
Yes, every time I shape, I try to make in better than the last one so in that way, it’s always new. But Alex and I have been trying out a few different asymmetrical shapes after riding some of Ryan Burch’s and Ryan Lovelace’s asym boards which really work great and give wave riding a whole new twist.