SURFBOARD FACTORY HAWAII FEB 2019 GENERIC LONG

A surfer & scientist (plus a computer) create the perfect wave, how?

Take 150 truck tires, money, a dream and what do you get?

Science Magazine Breaks Down How Kelly Slater’s Wave Pool Works its magic.

The process by which waves are created and break is actually quite simple. Large areas of the ocean have massive energy created by spinning winds around a center low/storm.
The result? A fetch (distance+direction of wind or swell across open water). This manifests itself on your favorite break along with the influence of several factors such as bathymetry, wind, tide and a number of ‘unknowns’. Surfers know this. Slater’s a surfer.
Kelly Slater dreams…and they usually come true…but not without accurate action.
So that meant a team of world-class scientists/nerds/investors.
The spot? Lemoore, Cali.
This vid, created by Science Magazine breaks down just how the hell they did it.

You can read the full feature, HERE 

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