Cholos 728×90 Generic

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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic

715am Obs Thursday Nov 14th

Another crisp, clear dawn thanks to 'land-breezes' (cooling) over nite... veering to sea-breezes esp. for Leeward facing shores by lunch. No Advisories.

SNN BIG PICTURE: Tuesday 11/13/19. The North Shore is small but rising all day and nite. South and East are tiny. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Up and Rising to 6' late afternoon with 15 sec NNW forerunners. Currently, smooth glassy water (lite seabreezes possible late AM) with Sunset Pt. trying for occ 3'. Pipeline 0-2', Chuns 1-3', Laniakea 2 occ plus' Haleiwa 0-2' under scattered clouds overhead.
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West:

Up and Rising to 4' late afternoon on NNW + trace of South. Makaha with glassy 0-2' sets but sea breezes mushing it out by late morning under clear skies.
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Town:

Down & Dropping 11 sec South plus a trace of background 15 sec SW off and on. Top Reefs: Kewalos-Courts and Bowls to Kaisers are smooth glass at 0-1.5' mostly with a chance of barely 2' sets. Canoes-Queens still a little smaller at mostly 0-1.5' for now under clear skies... Onshore seabreezes late a.m..
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down and Dropping tiny short period South with rare SW sets. Smooth 0-1-2' mostly. Seabreeze expected toward lunch under clear skies for now.
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Sandy's:

Down and Dropping South with sets 0-1 occ 2' at Full Pt.-Half Pt. into shore break under scattered clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding the micro 8sec NE. Makapu'u is clean at 0-1' for most the bay under clear to scattered clouds.
SURFBOARD FACTORY HAWAII FEB 2019 GENERIC LONG

Winds

Thursday
Range:
5-10mph Variables
to midday Seabreezes
Friday
Range:
5-7mph Variables to sea-breezes
to midday Seabreezes
Saturday
Range:
5-7mph NE Trade
to midday Seabreezes
Sunday
Range:
5-7mph NE Trade
to midday Seabreezes
Monday
Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

North

Thursday
11/14

Primary

Rising Slow 15s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy later
6' ~4pm
Friday
11/15

Primary

Up & holding 15s NNW
Haw: 8-10
Face: 12-18

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy midday

Saturday
11/16

Primary

Dropping 14s NNW
Haw: 6-8
Face: 10-15

Secondary

Rising 17s NW
Haw: 10-12+
Face: 15-20+
Good

Sunday
11/17

Primary

Dropping 14s NW
Haw: 8-12
Face: 14-20

Secondary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Fair-Good side-offshore

Monday
11/18

Primary

Dropping 13s NW
Haw: 6-8+
Face: 10-15+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

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West

Thursday
11/14

Primary

Dropping 11s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Rising Slow 15s NNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Smoother early-mushier midday
Friday
11/15

Primary

Up & holding 15s NNW
Haw: 5-7+
Face: 8-12+

Secondary

Holding 10s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Smooth early-mushy midday
Saturday
11/16

Primary

Dropping 14s NNW
Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+

Secondary

Up & holding 15s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good
Sunday
11/17

Primary

Dropping 14s NW
Haw: 6-10
Face: 10-18

Secondary

Holding 15s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair-Good side-offshore
Monday
11/18

Primary

Dropping 13s NW
Haw: 5-7
Face: 8-12

Secondary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
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South

Thursday
11/14

Primary

Dropping 11s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Up & Rising 15s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smoother early-mushier midday

Friday
11/15

Primary

Holding 10s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 14s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smoother early-mushier midday

Saturday
11/16

Primary

Up & holding 15s SSE
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Sunday
11/17

Primary

Holding 15s SSE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
trades back
Monday
11/18

Primary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Thursday
11/14

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smoother early-mushier midday

Friday
11/15

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Saturday
11/16

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Sunday
11/17

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Monday
11/18

Primary

Rising 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

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Current Swells:

Thursday 11/14
Primary: Rising Slow 15s NNW surf @1-2+ 
Secondary: Dropping 11s S surf @1 occ 2 
Third: Holding 8s NE surf @0-1.5 
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Marine Warnings:

Thursday   11/14
High Surf Adv in advance of the Big NW Friday
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Sailing Report:

Thursday   11/14
Poor-Fair with calm to Lite trades and variables veering to late AM/midday seabreezes till regular Trades return Monday
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Diving Report:

Thursday   11/14
Good for deeper dives but new NW is building for North and West facing Shores. Good for South shore diving spots and... good for select 'inside reefs' and good for select 'outside reefs'

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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