I’d be pretty pissed if Dane wasn’t on this list. To me he was a way better surfer than Mark Richards or Shaun Tomson or Rabbit Bartholomew. Not to take anything away from those guys—they’re all great surfers. But Dane was the epitome of power, style, and grace. There wasn’t anybody more powerful.
Dane surfed Backdoor as well as anyone does today, and on a twin-fin. I want to see any of these guys today go out there on a twin-fin and surf Backdoor as well as Dane did. I have a deeper love for that wave just from watching him.
I spent my whole childhood trying to surf like him, trying to be him. When I heard he was 5’ 9”, I decided I wasn’t going to get any taller than that. I ended up just over 5’ 9”. I swear I willed it. The only thing I didn’t get was his calves. Have you ever seen his legs? They’re huge. He was just a stump.
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