Tuesday, July 22, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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off 2/20/14; off 3/27. on 4/4. on 7/20/14
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Tom Curren steals the show at the J-Bay Open   During its stop in Jeffreys Bay, South Africa, the ASP World Tour unveiled a new contest within the contest called the “Heritage Series.” Pitting former ASP world champions Mark “Occy” Occhilupo and Tom Curren against each other, the ASP chose two of the most popular surfers in the world and let them do their thing on the long walls of J-Bay. Read the Full Story
SNN teams up with UH and the PACIOOS site. Is the Ala Wai and Ala Moana Bowl safe? After this last weekend of crazy rain, thunder and lightening we know what can happen to our water with rain run off. Now you can actually watch the plume out of the Ala Wai to see how far the bad water moves into our favorite playground. SNN and UH will keep you in safe in the line up with this great product by PACIOOS. Check it out HERE Read the Full Story
John Severson book targets birth of surf culture Greg Noll © John Severson Surfing went pop culture with the 1960s page prints. 14 July, - John Severson (born 1933) revolutionized pop culture's vision of surfing and surf culture through his prolific artistic output that transverses decades and disciplines. He began his career as a painter, selling his canvases at Long Beach State College. These first works consisted of oil paintings, photographs, drawings and prints relating to Hawaiian and Californian surf culture. In 1958, Severson expanded his repertoire and created a series of popular surf movies, such as Surf Safari, Surf Fever, Big Wednesday and Pacific Vibrations... Read the Full Story
Fanning ousts best friend Parko to take his 3rd JBay Open title Pic: Mick Fanning © ASP/Cestari Mick Takes J-Bay Open in Simply Sensational Supertubes and is in the hunt for a consecutive world title! Surf News, 19 July, 2014 - Jeffreys Bay, South Africa - Reigning ASP World Champion Mick Fanning (AUS) took a giant step towards a fourth title when he defeated compatriot Joel Parkinson in the Final of the J-Bay Open in simply sensational waves at Supertubes in Jeffreys Bay.

Stop No. 6 of 11 on the Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT), the J-Bay Open enjoyed an excellent opening day of competition and great surf during the holding period before all the elements came together to produce an epic finale in pumping 6-10 foot (2-3 metre) hollow waves...
Read the Full Story
about 10 days left...Dont miss it! The 7th Annual Honolulu Surf Film Festival has begun! Happenning July 5-31 at a one of a kind venue that bring the surf and ocean community together.
See the best in new and classic surf films from the four corners of the earth with our month-long ode to the ocean. This year we present our biggest line-up ever with 52 shorts and features that explore surfing’s heritage and ever-expanding horizons....
Read the Full Story
RipCurl GromSearch finishes up at Kewalo's After the second stop of the 2014 Rip Curl GromSearch, at Kewalo Basin on Oahu, the line is busy with talk of young Hawaiian champions. Talk of how the best from Kewalos will go on to the National Final at Trestles, and possibly the International Final at an undisclosed, world-class wave later this year. Talk of how from there, they’re likely to go on to world-class careers. If one thing is worthy of so much talk, it’s the future. No need to dial, these kids beat you to it.  Read the Full Story
Mick Fanning wins it in EPIC 5-8' Jeffries. Friday, July 18, 2014 Date: Saturday, July 19, 2014
Schedule: Round 5 (Heats 1-4), Quarterfinals, Semifinals
Conditions: Double overhead surf at Supertubes
Joel Parkinson (AUS) exploded out of the gates, catching a brilliant wave on the buzzer. On his way to a big score, though, he couldn’t exit a tight barrel on the inside. Fanning on the very next wave found a double barrel and sweetened the ride with powerful carves, to post an excellent 9.00 and take an early lead...FOR THE VIDEOS and Photos and Full Scoops hit up ASP HERE
Read the Full Story
RevoluSun and Surfrider hosting the 5th annual Sandy Beach cleanup this Saturday! Drop in! REVOLUSUN INVITES THE PUBLIC TO SANDY BEACH CLEAN UP HONOLULU — Just two weeks after opening their doors for business in 2009, RevoluSun held their first beach cleanup with the Oahu Surfrider Foundation, resulting in 900 pounds of trash removed from the Sandy Beach shoreline. This is a tradition that continues today. For the fifth year in a row, RevoluSun has partnered with the Surfrider Foundation’s Oahu Chapter for the Sandy Beach cleanup, which will be held July 19, from 10 a.m. - 12 p.m. Volunteers will be rewarded with a commemorative T-Shirt and free lunch hosted by RevoluSun....GO HERE Read the Full Story
Johnny Stone says "NO" to Monsanto Today at 5pm Hawaii Standard Time, noRep Boardshorts will release Protest Shorts: Evict Monsanto. These limited edition shorts – only 300 pair made – were designed by North Short-based artist Drew Toonz to bring awareness to the Evict Monsanto movement. Monsanto, the multinational chemical corporation famous for producing Agent Orange and RoundUp is also a leading manufacturer of genetically modified seeds, foods and pesticides. Whether you know them as GMOs, genetically engineered crops, or biotechnology, they all depict the act of inputting new genes into an organism in order to produce an acquired trait. Read the Full Story
Dude's your skim cred just went way up    Brad Domke called us up a couple of weeks ago psyching on some swell that was supposed to hit Puerto Escondido, or something... He needed some help getting there to ride beasts on a finless board like no one else on earth can. Given that Domke has been our boy for over a decade now and that he tends to deliver, we were happy to help him make the trip. Read the Full Story
Coco Ho speaks on her recent shoot for SI
Being on a wave is as cool as it looks. You get to surf however you want to, and that's one of the most beautiful things about it. For me, it's all about opening up my turns and making my movements more powerful -- just using the whole wave.
Read the Full Story
The North Canyon: Nazaré Calling with Garrett McNamara + Sea Fever + Sea Stills Dont miss this special engagement at the Honolulu Surf Fim Fest! Directed by Garrett McNamara, Paulo Caldeira, Polvo Concepts, Gustavo Neves. USA/Portugal. 2012. 60 mins.
In October 2011, record-breaking big wave surfer Garrett McNamara returned to explore the giant waves formed by the Nazaré Canyon in Portugal. This is the story of one month leading up to an incredible ride, told by a group of people who helped to shine a light on one of the biggest wave spots in the world....
Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of The Vintage Surf Happenning Saturday

Your exclusive SNN Observations for this Tuesday, July 22nd  630am

Stablizing weather and still clearing skies leeward and cloudy North and East. Ultra Light E trades with muggy conditions.  Watch for remnant runoff! Minus Low 630am pushing to a 2' High at 2pm.

NORTH
: Down and holding the background tiny 0-1' WNW & 0-1.5' NE wrap (for refracting reefs like Laniakea, Ehukai). See our new SNN Laniakea & Chuns Cams; smooth, glassy dawn to light offshores with some isolated runoff.  West: Makaha is down and holding from the south at 0-1' again; its smooth AM glass but expected to bump out with onshores later; decent select deep diving and all good for paddling. Town: Down and Holding at Ala Moana (check our new Bowls CAM), Kaisers, Kewalos etc. from the S-SE/SSW mostly in the 1-2' range and every 20-30 minutes maybe a 2.5' or chest high set rolls through at top reefs & isolated dirty water plumes (read story above). Diamond Head: Down and Holding on the S-SE 1-2' maybe a plus set per 20 minutes but its glassy now with the lite bumpiness later. Check out our new Diamond Head Cam! Sandy's: Down and South and ENE wrap at 1-2'  with glassy dawn barrells; breaking from Full Pt. to Pipelittles to chambers.  East: Makapu'u: Holding on trade swell at 1-2' from the middle mostly to Keiki's...really good conditions for here.

Events, News etc.

The Innaugural Surf Vintage Happenning with Randy Rarick at Hawaiian South Shore Saturday 7/26. Go Here

If waters are brown, stay out. Turbid water conditions at Kualoa, Kahana Bay through North shore up to Kaiaka Bay.  The public is advised to stay out of flood waters and storm water runoff due to possible overflowing cesspools, sewer manholes, pesticides, animal fecal matter, dead animals, pathogens, chemicals, and associated flood debris. Turbid water runoff have been known to attract sharks due to possible dead animals being washed into the ocean. Watson T Okubo:Clean Water Branch, Department of Health

The Honolulu Surf Film festival now through the end of July at Doris Duke Theater. GO HERE

Mick Fanning win reigns supreme! ASP Event #6 The Jeffries Bay Open   GO HERE

Thanks to all who lent a hand at the Revolusun Solar 5th Annual Sandy Beach Clean Up this Saturday! GO HERE

Words of a lifetime: "He offered so much knowledge and shared with you all the time. He was very helpful, very understanding and just wanted to have a great time. That's what was wonderful about Ricky. He just always loved to surf. I still see his face, his smile, how much he enjoyed what we did. It was a pleasure and honor to have known him...to have learned from him". Big  Wave Surfing Legend Ken Bradshaw before Ricky Griggs Sunset Paddle out Saturday at 930am.

Ricky Griggs favorite spot...our final paddle out in celebration of a one of kind Legend in and out of surfing.

Your FREE SNN Android App...Here.    Your FREE SNN Iphone App...HERE

See the SNN weather animations link HERE

BIG Picture updated Friday 7/4 HERE

 
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Surf Report

Surf

North
Tue '07/22'
Holding - NW+NE
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Cloudy,glassy dawn
Wed '07/23'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Thu '07/24'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Fri '07/25'
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Sat '07/26'
Dropping - NW+NE
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Haleiwa
Tue '07/22'
Time
Ht.
H 11:31 PM 0.6 ft.
L 4:18 AM 0 ft.
H 12:55 PM 1.7 ft.
L 7:03 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 7:14 PM
Wed '07/23'
Time
Ht.
H 12:27 AM 0.6 ft.
L 5:02 AM 0 ft.
H 1:33 PM 1.7 ft.
L 7:37 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 7:14 PM
Thu '07/24'
Time
Ht.
H 1:13 AM 0.6 ft.
L 5:42 AM 0 ft.
H 2:06 PM 1.8 ft.
L 8:06 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:02 AM
Sunset: 7:13 PM
Fri '07/25'
Time
Ht.
H 1:53 AM 0.7 ft.
L 6:20 AM 0 ft.
H 2:38 PM 1.8 ft.
L 8:34 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:02 AM
Sunset: 7:13 PM
Sat '07/26'
Time
Ht.
H 2:31 AM 0.7 ft.
L 6:57 AM 0 ft.
H 3:09 PM 1.7 ft.
L 9:01 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:03 AM
Sunset: 7:12 PM

West
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Cloudy,glassy dawn
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Rising - S-SW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
small kine swell

South
Holding - SSE+SSW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Cloudy,glassy dawn
Holding - S-SE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Holding - S-SE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Rising - S-SW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
1' 14 second
Honolulu Harbor
Tue '07/22'
Time
Ht.
H 12:33 AM 0.8 ft.
L 6:23 AM 0 ft.
H 1:57 PM 2.1 ft.
L 9:08 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 7:14 PM
Wed '07/23'
Time
Ht.
H 1:29 AM 0.8 ft.
L 7:07 AM 0 ft.
H 2:35 PM 2.2 ft.
L 9:42 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 7:14 PM
Thu '07/24'
Time
Ht.
H 2:15 AM 0.8 ft.
L 7:47 AM 0 ft.
H 3:08 PM 2.2 ft.
L 10:11 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:02 AM
Sunset: 7:13 PM
Fri '07/25'
Time
Ht.
H 2:55 AM 0.9 ft.
L 8:25 AM 0 ft.
H 3:40 PM 2.2 ft.
L 10:39 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:02 AM
Sunset: 7:13 PM
Sat '07/26'
Time
Ht.
H 3:33 AM 0.9 ft.
L 9:02 AM 0 ft.
H 4:11 PM 2.2 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:03 AM
Sunset: 7:12 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Cloudy,glassy dawn
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5

Winds
Hawaii
Tue '07/22'
E E
Mph: 5-7
Wed '07/23'
E E
Mph: 10-20+
Thu '07/24'
E E
Mph: 10-20+
Fri '07/25'
E E
Mph: 10-20+
small craft channels
Sat '07/26'
E E
Mph: 10-20+

Current Swells

Tue '07/22'
Primary : E-NE / Holding , 1-2'
Secondary : S-SE / Holding , 1-2'
Third : NW+NE / Rising , 0-1'

Marine Warnings

Tue '07/22'
Hawaii : stay out of the brown water

Sailing Report

Tue '07/22'
Hawaii : Poor now but trades filling.

Diving Report

Tue '07/22'
Hawaii : Some areas good but some Poor today with isolated runoff especially along windward coasts.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset COMBO Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Calm to Light rainy, stormy

Oahu - Pipeline NE Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Calm to Light diving , paddling and fishin' some west too

Oahu - Rocky Point NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Calm to Light good runoff?

Oahu - Haleiwa NE Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Calm to Light good

Oahu - Makaha COMBO Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Calm to Light smooth

Oahu - Ala Moana S 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light good runoff?

Oahu - Waikiki S 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light glassy

Oahu - Diamond Head S 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light good to excellent runoff?

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light smooth

Oahu - Makapuu E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light semi-clean runoff?

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area NW+NE Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Calm to Light fair to good runoff?

Maui - Upper West - Honolua N-NE Flat 0 to Flat Calm to Light diving , paddling and fishin' runoff?

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SE Flat- to 2-feet 0 to Waist Calm to Light good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SE Flat 0 to Flat Calm to Light smooth runoff?

Maui - East - Hana E-NE 1- to 3-feet Knee to Head Calm to Light slightly bumpy runoff?

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei COMBO Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Calm to Light diving , paddling and fishin' runoff?

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Calm to Light smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu SSE+SSW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Calm to Light mild choppiness runoff?

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light bumpy

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Calm to Light diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast SSE+SSW Flat- to 2-feet 0 to Waist Calm to Light good lulls

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast COMBO 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light smooth runoff?

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Calm to Light smooth

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...just go HERE(this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Jul 21, 2014 4:00 AM HST

Watches/Warnings/Advisories Flash flood watch through 6 pm HST this evening for all Hawaiian islands.

Small craft advisory from 6 pm HST this evening to 6 pm HST Tuesday for Pailolo and Alenuihaha channels and Big Island leeward waters.

Small craft advisory from 6 am HST to 6 pm HST Tuesday for Kaiwi Channel, Maalaea Bay and Big Island southeast waters.

Synopsis Ample tropical moisture in the island vicinity coupled with an upper level trough just west of the state will continue to elevate the threat of locally heavy rainfall today. More typical trade wind weather is expected to return by the middle of the week.

Discussion Locally heavy rain have tampered off over windward Maui and the Big Island overnight. The activity has now shifted to Oahu along the koolaus early this morning. At least the heavier showers along the koolaus are moving. The situation certainly needs a closer monitoring. Ample tropical moisture is spreading across the island chain early this morning and will linger in the island vicinity through the next couple of days. An upper level trough west of the islands early this morning continues to move away slowly and weaken. This trough will still be close enough to influence the island weather today. Coupled with the present of ample tropical moisture in the area, conditions are still favorable for locally heavy rain to develop. On the other hand, the widespread threat of thunderstorms across the state has diminished quite a bit, though shall not be surprised if a thunderstorm develops over the Big Island later this afternoon. The moderate trade winds that the islands experience yesterday have eased a bit overnight as expected. The surface high pressure that is responsible for the winds remains far north of the state today, providing trade winds to the islands.

The upper level trough will shift further west and weaken by Tuesday. In turn, atmospheric conditions will be slowly improving across the islands, though lingering low level moisture will remain in the island vicinity, bringing possible showers to much of the area Tuesday. As a surface high pressure persists far north of the state, trade winds will continue across the state. In fact, a slight boost in the trades is expected as the surface pressure gradient tightens a tad in the area. Forecast models still indicate drier conditions to return to the state by Wednesday through Friday, as a drier and more stable air mass returns to the islands. Therefore, more typical summer trade wind weather is expected for the later part of the week.

Latest GFS and ECMWF continue to indicate another area of tropical moisture reaching the state by the weekend into early next week. Models do not indicate the air mass in the island vicinity to become too unstable at this time. The end result may be a slight increase in the trade showers and clouds for the state.

Marine Winds may increase enough tonight into Tuesday for small craft wind conditions to return to the windier coastal waters around Maui and the Big Island. Expect the moderate trade winds to prevail through much of the week. In turn, the small craft advisory for those windier coastal waters will probably remain in effect as well.

There will be a series of small south and southeast swells through this week. Trade winds will remain strong enough to bring short period choppy surf along east facing shores.

 

 

BIG SURF PICTURE Friday 7/11/14

SPAC:

The Jet is split now and not condusive to storms pointed to Hawaii for over 7 days. There's a lot of high pressure off the coast of NZL. So the outlook is not great after the upcoming swells.  Last weeks Jet was real good tho; from the end of June starting in the Taz for tons of SW to SSW swell, the Jet bent up toward the equator far off NZL enhancing/steering a beautiful storm for one of the better South swells of the summer July 14-16.

Recent-current: Looking pretty average now with chest high and max head high sets from the SSW down from 15 sec to 13 sec. Lotsa fetch in and below the Taz sea from end of June into Wednesday 7/2. The most recent NE push was ‘captured’ (fetch pointed same way as the storms track). The limiting factor was the cheese grater Islands of Fiji and Samoa. We still got 3’ 15 second 'swells' Wed. peaking 3’ 14 sec Thursday. This pegged 'surf' hts at 2-4' late Wednesday into Thursday at the peak. (observations did see/ride 5' sets at top reefs tho' only a few). We claimed surf of 2-3 maybe 4’ at top spots top sets from the SW-SSW with long waits and that's what it was overall.

Next: Another Taz pulse will keep us at 1-2 occ 3 into Saturday the 12th. Also a gale low off the east coast of NZL Sat the 5th could push surf up from a more S to SSW angle of 2-3' Saturday, too. This one will be over taken by a larger swell filling late afternoon Sunday the 13th.

Last but not least: The Jet shifted east toward the longitude of Tahiti from the 4th-8th. On Sunday/ Monday 7/6-7 a big powerful Low comes up of the Ice shelf with a perfect NNE track and thus a long (1000 mile) captured fetch with top sea hts at 30-35’. Tho’ the storm weakens by Wed the 9th it’s very broad allowing the fetch to stick around and nose north of NZL closer to Hawaii. The surf from this source will be one of the longest lasting of the summer (5 days). WW3 now calls for 2’ 18-20 seconds by 2pm Sunday with 3' 16 sec Monday noonish and reaching 4’ 15 seconds from the South Monday nite and  holding into Tuesday. Right now we’re going with late arrival Sunday then up to advry levels Monday evening's session of 3-5’  and more consistent higher sets into Tuesday.

Last 2: We dont see anything from the SSW but we do see some 14 second SSE swell bumping up Sunday the 20th from a SE tracking powerful Low under Tahiti this weekend. The issue is the track.

There's a small Taz Low moving NE Monday the 14th but wont give out more than 2.5' SW swell at 14 seconds Monday the 21st.

(See SPAC models HERE)

NPAC:

The Jet stream is weak but still showing some signs for background enhancement with troughing near the gulf and from the central aleutians Sunday. By Tuesday a trough comes off Japan stretching out to the dateline then drops to about 35-40N (900-1200 miles). for the season.

Recent: The N swell peaked Wednesday afternoon at just over 3’ at Laniakea and has faded to barely 1’ from the NE today. The gale storm 1200 miles N tracked NNE from last weekend into Monday leading to 11 seconds and beautiful lines.

Next: a small 0-1 maybe 2’ WNW (305) arrives late Sunday into Monday from an east bound Low off N Japan last Monday-Tuesday. The weak gale storm stays ~2400 miles away and short periods of 10 seconds wont do much for power or pizzazz but will make it barely rideable for a day...

Last: nothing out 7 days.

(See NPAC models HERE)

Windward: Wind swell will be average of 1-3’ with slight variation downward esp Sunday-Monday when the ridge weakens and drops south lightening the Trades and associated swell. Former storm Fausta may keep it up in the 3' zone but not certain.

Tropics: Another new BIG Typhoon is forming this weekend off the Filipines with a direct path east toward land. It's expected to do more than clip Luzon Wednesday. Not good. The 1st super Typhoon Neoguri that formed off the Philippines the 4th with a NW track toward Taiwan  intensified and broadened into Monday with 45’ seas and reached land and created 20' surf in Taiwan. The biggest storm on record for July. Hawaii wont see surf but it was the most significant storm on planet earth. The remnants are now off Japan. 

Remnants of Fausta Friday is only a trough of Low pressure moving WNW into Sunday. We’ll still see longer than average period 9 sec East swell from this source but not much higher than the local wind swell of 1-3+ for the Big Is and 1-3' for most other Islands Eastern to SE exposures. Sunday-Monday would be the peak.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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