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SURFBOARD FACTORY SPRING BREAK THRU MAY31    728PX   3.26.20

6:45am OBS Sunday 3/29/20

Chilly morning, scattered showers, slight chance T-storms after noon. Lite to mod. ENE trades... Marg. High Surf Adv for East shores. SCA for channels. Access to the water still permitted, tho' Hawaii Beach Parks are officially closed (no guards, parking, bathrooms... Please respect these measures so we can keep surfing. Mahalo.

Slowly dropping ENE trade swell, Small SSW. Only NE wrap on the NS. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Down and holding NE wrap. Basically flat at most spots but semi-clean with lite ENE trades. Sunset Pt. 0-1', Pipe-Backdoor flat, Chuns 0-1', and Laniakea 1-1.5'; Haleiwa flat under partly cloudy skies. Still some brown water at a lot of breaks.
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West:

Holding 16 sec SSW. Makaha is good offshore at 1-occ 2' behind the reef under mostly clear skies.
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Town:

Holding 12 sec SSE and 16 sec small SSW. Kewalos, Courts, Kaisers, Bowls all 1-2' occ. 2.5' with nice 10-15 offshores. Threes to Queens 1-1.5' with passing showers.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding SE plus longer period SSW. Diamond Head is still a bit bumpy, but with lighter trades at 1-2-occ 3' under cloudy skies.
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Sandy's:

Small SSW plus slowly dropping 9sec NE wind swell. Surf's 2-3' from Full Pt to Pipe-littles into Chambers with some fun ones in the shorebreak under mostly cloudy skies and freq. showers. Parking lot closed.
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East Makapu'u:

Down another notch and Holding 9 sec ENE wind swell. Makapu'u is 2-3' outside left with fun ones also on the right side sandbar under overcast skies Still a bit tattered. Parking lot closed.
Surf n Sea 728×90 generic 2.1.20

Winds

Monday
Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

Tuesday
Range:
10-15mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-15mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-15mph NE Trade

Friday
Range:
10-20mph NNE

North

Monday
03/30

Primary

Holding 9s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin

Tuesday
03/31

Primary

Rising 14s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Wednesday
04/01

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Thursday
04/02

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Friday
04/03

Primary

Rising 12s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Poor onshore

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West

Monday
03/30

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 9s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Tuesday
03/31

Primary

Rising 14s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Rising Slow 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Wednesday
04/01

Primary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3

Secondary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Thursday
04/02

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair-Good side-offshore
Friday
04/03

Primary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1

Secondary

Rising 12s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
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South

Monday
03/30

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Tuesday
03/31

Primary

Rising Slow 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Wednesday
04/01

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair-Good side-offshore

Thursday
04/02

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising Slow 15s SSE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair-Good side-offshore

Friday
04/03

Primary

Holding 14s SSE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Rising Slow 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Fair to good

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east

Monday
03/30

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Average

Tuesday
03/31

Primary

Holding 9s ENE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Wednesday
04/01

Primary

Dropping 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Thursday
04/02

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Friday
04/03

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Chunky

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Current Swells:

Monday 03/30
Primary: Holding 8s ENE surf @2-3+ 
Secondary: Dropping 12s SSW surf @1-2 
Third: Holding 9s NE surf @0-1 
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Marine Warnings:

Monday   03/30
SCA for channel waters
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Sailing Report:

Monday   03/30
Good with light to moderate Trades.
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Diving Report:

Monday   03/30
Fair for most deeper North shore zones with tiny NE wrap; good for deeper West shores fair for South zones. Poor-fair for inside and poor outside reefs of Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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