SURFBOARD FACTORY HAWAII FEB 2019 GENERIC LONG

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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic

10am UPDATE Obs Tuesday Sept 17th

Light East Trades with some SE flow. Muggy and hot with scattered to Broken clouds with some instability up there. No Advisories.

Holding a small SSW + new tiny SW + new tiny NNW + tiny East wind swell. Micro NNW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Up and Rising 11 sec NNW. Surf is super clean lite offshore and stirring up to 2' now or occ waist-high at isolated reefs. Sunset Pt. and Rocky Pt. 1-2', Chuns 0-1.5'; Laniakea 0-1 occ 2' & Haleiwa is 0-1.5' under a few clouds.
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West:

Holding 14sec SSW + 20 sec SW plus the NNW is now getting in up to 2' off and on. Makaha is light onshore. Surf's 0-1' occ 2' sets. Focal Reefs up to chest or 1-2.5' local size under scattered clouds.
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Town:

Holding 14sec SSW (2' swell) plus a new 1' 20 sec SW Taz swell. Surf's still decently smooth side offshore at 1-2' occ 2.5' at isolated reefs: Kewalos, Magic Island, Bowls, and Kaisers look fun; Canoes-Queens are waist-chest high under scattered to broken clouds.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding 14sec SSW (2' swell) plus a new 1' swell at 20 sec SW Taz event. Surf's lumpy and limping in at 1-2.5'... mostly Waist to shoulder high. Semi-clear. See SNN CAM.
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Sandy's:

Holding a SSW + new SW along with some tiny trade swell. Sets are 1-2 even a few 3'. Middle Peaks. to Chambers. Fair conditions with the lighter East trades in the morning under broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding the small 8sec East trade wind swell. Makapu'u is semi bumpy 1-2' and crumbling inside close to shore with Keiki side a bit less energy under broken to overcast skies.
Pico 728 Windward 4/11/19

Winds

Wednesday
Range:
5-15mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
5-10mph ENE Trade

Friday
Range:
10-25mph NE Trade

Saturday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade
veering variable
Sunday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade

North

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 13s NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good

Thursday
09/19

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
09/20

Primary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair-Good side-offshore

Saturday
09/21

Primary

Dropping 11s ENE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Sunday
09/22

Primary

Up & Rising 15s NW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair-Good side-offshore

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West

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
clean
Thursday
09/19

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 15s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Friday
09/20

Primary

Holding 15s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Offshore
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 11s ENE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Up & Rising 15s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Fair-Good side-offshore
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South

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising 16s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
clean

Thursday
09/19

Primary

Rising 15s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 10s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Offshore

Friday
09/20

Primary

Holding 15s SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising early Evening 17s SSW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Offshore

Saturday
09/21

Primary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Holding 14s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores

Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Wednesday
09/18

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Thursday
09/19

Primary

Rising Later 11s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Average
former Hurr. Kiko
Friday
09/20

Primary

Holding 11s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Typical
former Hurr. Kiko
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Dropping Slow 10s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Typical
former Hurr. Kiko
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 9s E
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair

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Current Swells:

Wednesday 09/18
Primary: Dropping 12s SSW surf @1-2 
Secondary: Dropping 11s NNW surf @0-1.5 
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Marine Warnings:

Wednesday   09/18
None
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Sailing Report:

Wednesday   09/18
Fair-good with light E-ENE trades filling into lite-moderate paces.
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Diving Report:

Wednesday   09/18
Trend: Good for most dive zones along North Shores; good dives for select West shore spots + fair to good for select deep South shore spots (some surging from Swells) and... good for 'inside reefs' and fair-good for select 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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