Surf n Sea 728×90 generic 2/1/22-

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Tricked Out Accessories 728×90

645am OBS Thursday, October 6th

Mostly clear skies esp. leeward. Lite 5-15mph NE trades filling in. Afternoon sea breezes at some leeward areas. No marine warnings.

Big Picture updated 10/2. Small NNE and NNW. Small South. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Dropping 11 sec NNW + Dropping 8 sec NNE. Some morning sickness w/ Light sideshore NE trades, filling in more later for added texture. Sunset 1-2'+; Rocky Pt mostly 1-2'; Pipe/Backdoor 0-occ.2''; Log Cabins 1-occ. 2'; Chuns 1-occ.2'+; Laniakea 1-2'+; Ali'i Beach Park 0-1'. Partly cloudy skies.
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West:

Dropping 11 sec NNW + Dropping 12 sec South + Rising 18 sec SSW. Surf's clean and glassy now; sea breezes coming late morning through afternoon. Makaha is mostly 0-1' with occasional larger combo peak under clear skies.
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Town:

Dropping 12 sec South + Rising 18 sec SSW. Surf's clean under lite offshores. Waikiki reefs are mostly 0-occ.2' for now; Top spots: Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are mostly 1-2' under clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Dropping 12 sec South + Rising 18 sec SSW. Some NE trade ruffle but relatively good conditions w/ light side-offshores early. Surf's 1-2' under mostly clear skies.
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Sandy's:

Dropping 12 sec South + Rising 18 sec SSW. Clean surf under light NE trades. Full Pt-Half Pt is 1-2'. The shorebreak, especially over by Gas Chambers, is fun at 1-2'. Mostly clear skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Dropping 8 sec NNE. Textured w/ light onshores. Surf's 1-occ. 2' focusing mostly in the shorebreak and Keiki's side. Watch for backwash to increase towards late morning as the tide comes up. Partly cloudy skies.
Cholos 728×90 Generic

Winds

Friday
Range:
5-15mph NE Trade
Poss isolated mid-day sea breeze mix
Saturday
Range:
5-15mph NE Trade
Poss isolated mid-day sea breeze mix
Sunday
Range:
5-10mph NE Trade
Likely isolated mid-day sea breeze mix
Monday
Range:
5-7mph Veering to variables
mid-day sea breezes
Tuesday
Range:
5-7mph Variables
Mid-day sea breezes; NNE flow returns later

North

Friday
10/07

Primary

Up & Rising 15s N
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later
7' afternoon
Saturday
10/08

Primary

Dropping Slow 12s N
Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Sunday
10/09

Primary

Dropping Slow 11s N
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Monday
10/10

Primary

Holding 10s N
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Dropping 10s N
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Smooth early-mushy midday

Tuesday
10/11

Primary

Dropping Later 11s N
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy midday

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West

Friday
10/07

Primary

Up & Rising 15s N
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Up & holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good early , fair later
Saturday
10/08

Primary

Dropping Slow 12s N
Haw: 2-5
Face: 3-8

Secondary

Up & holding 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good early , fair later
Sunday
10/09

Primary

Dropping Slow 11s N
Haw: 1-3 occ +
Face: 2-5 occ +

Secondary

Holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good early , fair later
Monday
10/10

Primary

Holding 10s N
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smooth early-mushy midday
Tuesday
10/11

Primary

Dropping Later 11s N
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smooth early-mushy midday
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South

Friday
10/07

Primary

Up & holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising 20s SSW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good early , fair later

Saturday
10/08

Primary

Up & holding 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good early , fair later

Sunday
10/09

Primary

Holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Monday
10/10

Primary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising Nightime 18s SW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Smooth early-mushy later

Tuesday
10/11

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Up & holding 16s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Smooth early-mushy later

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east

Friday
10/07

Primary

Rising Fast 15s N
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later
5' afternoon
Saturday
10/08

Primary

Dropping Slow 12s N
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Sunday
10/09

Primary

Dropping Slow 11s N
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Monday
10/10

Primary

Holding 10s N
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

Tuesday
10/11

Primary

Dropping Later 11s N
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good early , fair later

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Current Swells:

Friday 10/07
Primary: Up & Rising 15s N surf @3-5+ 
Secondary: Rising Fast 15s N surf @2-3 
Third: Up & holding 16s SSW surf @1-2 occ + 
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Marine Warnings:

Friday   10/07
Trend: None
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Sailing Report:

Friday   10/07
Trend: Fair-good w/ light to moderate NE trades filling in and holding in the 10-15 max mph range.
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Diving Report:

Friday   10/07
Trend: North shores: Poor-fair for most shallow zones due to moderate North swells, light NE trades early, and fairly clear skies...deeper dive zones are the best bet; West shores: fair for most prime zones due to small N wrap and South swells and mostly clear skies; South shores: Fair to good due to minor S swell, lite to moderate PM trades, and sunny skies. East shores: Poor overall for most zones with moderate surf out of the North and onshore winds, and partly cloudy skies.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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