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SURF N SEA ONLINE 728  1.31.24 10pm

7am OBS, Saturday, May 10th

Beautiful morning with mostly sunny skies and breezy trades. Scattered showers expected over Windward/Mauka occasionally spilling into the Leeward zones. Small Craft Adv for most Hawaiian waters.

Solid SSW. Head-high North. Average+ ENE trade swell rising. Call 596-SURF: 7a, Noon, 4pm (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Up & holding 11 sec North + minor trade wrap. Fresh side offshore ENE trades causing some side bump but still fun. Sunset 1-3'. Rocky Pt 1-2'+; Pipe 0-2' (not really breaking); Chuns 1-3'; Laniakea 2-3'+; Ali'i Beach Park 1-2'. Scattered clouds.
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West:

Up & Rising 18 sec SSW + minor N wrap. Clean with fresh offshore ENE Trades. Makaha is 1-2' occ. 3' on the SSW. Long lulls between sets. Mostly sunny skies.
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Town:

Up & Rising 18 sec SSW + Dropping 13 sec SSW. Clean offshores from fresh ENE trades. Waikiki reefs are 1-2' occ. 3'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 1-3' occ. + at top spots. Long lulls between sets and mostly sunny skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Up & Rising 18 sec SSW + Dropping 13 sec SSW + trade wrap. Bumpy side-shore conditions from the fresh+ ENE trades... Surf's 1-3' occ. + on the combo peaks. Long lulls between sets and mostly sunny skies.
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Sandy's:

Up & Rising 18 sec SSW + Dropping 13 sec SSW + North wrap + trade wrap. Chunky side chop over the reefs and slightly better conditions in the shorebreak. Full Pt/Half Pt are a bit torn 2-3'+. Shore break is better at 2-3' occ. + with some nice sandbars and breaking close to shore. Mostly sunny skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Dropping 11 sec. North wrap + Rising 8 sec ENE trade swell. Surf's 1-3' occ. + with typical onshore chop, breaking outside on the left near the rocks to the middle and rolling into the shore break. Keiki corner up to 3' on the N wrap. Scattered clouds.
Cholos KARAOKE

Winds

Sunday
Range:
15-25+mph ENE Trade

Monday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Tuesday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-20mph East Trade

North

Sunday
05/11

Primary

Dropping 11s N
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising Midday 18s NW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair to good
NW-NNW; 2' afternoon
Monday
05/12

Primary

Up & holding 11s NNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 10s N
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair to good
3' midday
Tuesday
05/13

Primary

Rising 17s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
4' midday
Wednesday
05/14

Primary

Up & dropping 13s NW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Thursday
05/15

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

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West

Sunday
05/11

Primary

Up & dropping 15s S
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 11s N
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
Monday
05/12

Primary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Up & holding 11s NNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores
Tuesday
05/13

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 17s NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores
Wednesday
05/14

Primary

Up & dropping 13s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Dropping Slow 12s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good
Thursday
05/15

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Dropping Slow 11s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good offshores
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South

Sunday
05/11

Primary

Up & dropping 15s S
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Monday
05/12

Primary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Tuesday
05/13

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Wednesday
05/14

Primary

Dropping Slow 12s S
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Thursday
05/15

Primary

Dropping Slow 11s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Rising 16s S
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

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east

Sunday
05/11

Primary

Up & Rising 7s ENE
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +

Secondary

Dropping Slow 10s N
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Lumpy , Bumpy, Grumpy
4' later
Monday
05/12

Primary

Up & dropping 7s ENE
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +

Secondary

Up & dropping 11s N
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
bumpy
+R later 14sec NNE
Tuesday
05/13

Primary

Up & Rising 12s NNE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy
NNE veering NE
Wednesday
05/14

Primary

Up & holding 11s NE
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Thursday
05/15

Primary

Dropping 10s NE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

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Current Swells:

Sunday 05/11
Primary: Up & dropping 15s S surf @2-4+ 
Secondary: Up & Rising 7s ENE surf @2-3 occ + 
Third: Dropping 11s N surf @1-2 occ + 
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Marine Warnings:

Sunday   05/11
Trend: Small Craft Adv for most Hawaiian waters due to fresh+ ENE Trades thru Tuesday
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Sailing Report:

Sunday   05/11
Trend: Good all week and weekend with moderate-fresh ENE trades filling in early...
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Diving Report:

Sunday   05/11
Trend: North Shore: Fair for top zones (best bet deeper dives) due to head high surf and fresh ENE trades. West: Fair overall due to tiny N-NNW and rising South swells along with fresh ENE trades. South: Poor-fsir for most zones (best bet deeper dives) due to a rising South swell and fresh ENE Trades. East: Poor for most zones due to choppy trade swell and fresh trades.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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