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Seaspecs April 2018 Matt

645am OBS Sunday May 20th Pwrd by Surfer the Bar

Beautiful morning with early light ENE flow filling to fresh (10-25mph) and typical scattered-broken clouds. Small craft adv for channels.

Holding small SSW + micro ENE wind swell & dropping tiny NNW. Call 596-SURF 7a, 12, 3, 5p recap-forecast.

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North Shore:

Down and dropping 11 sec NNW. Surf is 1-2' occ.+ and fairly clean with top sets showing weak & inconsistent crumbly sections. Sunset and Rocky Point 1-2' occ.+, Pipe-OTW zone 1' occ. 2'; Chuns 1-2' occ.+; Laniakea 1-2'. Ali'i Beach is 1-2' occ.+ under partly cloudy skies.
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West:

Down and dropping the tiny NNW & holding the mix of 17 SSW. Makaha is 1-2' maybe a plus size wave for top sets and smooth with light offshore under mostly clear skies.
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Town:

Up and holding the small 17 sec SSW. Surf's up a notch at 2-3' with isolated 4' sets and showing good form with light side-offshore. A little inconsistent but decent energy for top focusing reefs from Kewalos to Kaisers. Threes-Pops-Queens-Publics at 1-3' under scattered clouds.
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Diamond Head:

Up and holding the 17 sec SSW. Surf is solid 2-4' and pulsing with consistent head-high peaks for top magnets. Fair-good shape and some fun open faces under partly cloudy skies.
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Sandy's:

Holding SSW and avg. trade swell. Surf's 2-3' occ.+ with nice clean lines for Full Pt-1/2 Pt. and mostly 3' sets at Middle Peaks;-Gas Chambers and fair bumpy texture and partly cloudy skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Up and holding the ENE trade swell. Surf is 1-3' & choppy with moderate-fresh onshores. Quick drops into closeout shorebreak under broken-scattered clouds.
BIG CITY DINER MARCH-MAY 2018

Weather

Sunday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 89°F

Partly Cloudy

Wind:
23mph ENE

Monday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 88°F

Partly Cloudy

Wind:
23mph ENE

Tuesday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 87°F

Mostly Cloudy

Wind:
23mph NE

Wednesday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 87°F

Partly Cloudy

Wind:
23mph NE

Thursday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 87°F

Mostly Cloudy

Wind:
23mph NE

Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Range:
10-20mph NE Trade

Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

Range:
10-25mph NE Trade

Range:
10-20+mph NE Trade

North

Sunday
05/20
N-NW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Dropping
1' 11 sec; fairly clean, clouds
Monday
05/21
N-NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Dropping
2' 10s
Tuesday
05/22
NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Rising Afternoon
1' 14s
Wednesday
05/23
NW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Rising
4' 12s
Thursday
05/24
NW
Haw: 1-3 occ +
Face: 2-5 occ +
Dropping
4' 10s
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West

Sunday
05/20
NW SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Dropping Slow
2' 17 sec; smooth, clear
Monday
05/21
COMBO
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Holding
trace WNW
Tuesday
05/22
COMBO
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising

Wednesday
05/23
COMBO
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Rising
NW 3'
Thursday
05/24
NW SSW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Dropping
small NW
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South

Sunday
05/20
S-SW
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7
Holding
2.3' 17 sec; clean; scattered clouds
Monday
05/21
S-SW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Dropping Slow
2' 15s
Tuesday
05/22
S-SW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Dropping

Wednesday
05/23
SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Rising
.5' 22s
Thursday
05/24
SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Rising
1.2' 18s
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east

Sunday
05/20
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Dropping
5' 8 sec; choppy onshore, clouds
Monday
05/21
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding

Tuesday
05/22
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding

Wednesday
05/23
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding

Thursday
05/24
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding

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Current Swells:

Sunday   05/20
Primary: Holding  S-SW  2-3' occ. 4' surf @ 2' 17 sec
Secondary: Dropping  N-NW  Surf is 1-2' occ.+ at 11 sec
Third: Holding  E-NE  TREND: Surfs 1-2-3' @ 8 sec
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Marine Warnings:

Sunday   05/20
small craft Adv for channels
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Sailing Report:

Sunday   05/20
Good with light to moderate to isolated fresh ENE trades esp outside the line ups
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Diving Report:

Sunday   05/20
Fair for deeper North & good for West. Fair for inside reefs along isolated Windward shores and good for select deeper south shores zones (swell).

Oahu

SUNSET
Sunday   05/20
NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades moderate-fresh
fairly clean

ROCKY POINT
Sunday   05/20
NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Trades moderate
good

Pipeline
Sunday   05/20
NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Trades moderate-fresh
fairly clean

HALEIWA
Sunday   05/20
NW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Trades moderate
fairly clean

MAKAHA
Sunday   05/20
NW SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades light-moderate
smooth

ALA MOANA
Sunday   05/20
S-SW
Haw: 1-3 occ +
Face: 2-5 occ +
Trades moderate
good

Waikiki
Sunday   05/20
S-SW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Trades moderate
good

Diamond Head
Sunday   05/20
S-SW
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7
Trades moderate
bumpy

Sandy Beach
Sunday   05/20
ENE+SSW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Trades moderate-fresh
slightly bumpy

Makapuu
Sunday   05/20
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Trades moderate
choppy

Maui

Hookipa
Sunday   05/20
NW+NE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Trades moderate-fresh
slightly bumpy

Honolua
Sunday   05/20
NW+NE
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Trades moderate-fresh
smooth

Kihei
Sunday   05/20
COMBO
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Trades moderate-fresh
good

Hana
Sunday   05/20
E-NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Trades moderate-fresh
choppy

Lahaina
Sunday   05/20
S-SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades moderate-fresh
good

Kauai

Hanalei
Sunday   05/20
NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Trades light-moderate
good

Majors
Sunday   05/20
NW SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades light
good

Poipu
Sunday   05/20
S-SW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Trades moderate-fresh
good

Kapaa
Sunday   05/20
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Trades moderate-fresh
choppy

Big Island

Hamakua Coast
Sunday   05/20
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Trades moderate-fresh
choppy

Kohala
Sunday   05/20
COMBO
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Trades moderate-fresh
good

Kona
Sunday   05/20
S-SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades moderate-fresh
good

Hilo
Sunday   05/20
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Trades moderate-fresh
bumpy

Kau
Sunday   05/20
ENE+SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Trades moderate-fresh
bumpy

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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