GREENTEA HI 5.21 728X90

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630am OBS Monday 5/17/21

Nice day setting up with scattered to broken clouds and breezy w/ NE trades at 15-25mph (higher for Maui-Big Is). Small Craft Advisory from Ka'iwi channel eastward due to fresh to isolated strong trades.

Small rising NNW. Small dropping South. Holding average+ trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Rising small 13 sec NNW peaking 3'+ this afternoon. Holding 8 sec NE trade wrap. Side-shore bumpiness already. Sunset to Rocky Pt 0-1' occ. 2', Pipe/Backdoor 0-1.5'. Chuns up to 2'; Laniakea 1-2.5', Haleiwa flat-1' under partly clear skies .
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West:

Down & Dropping slowly small 11 sec S swell along with signs of new NNW. Makaha is super clean w/ light offshores at 1- occ. 2', breaking inside the reef under clear skies.
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Town:

Down & Dropping Slowly small 11 sec S swell. Straight offshore winds. Waikiki reefs are 0-1 occ 2'. Ala Moana, Kaisers-Rockpiles & to Kewalos, etc. are 1-2' at top spots. Very inconsistent sets. Mostly clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down and Dropping Slowly small short period South swell + trade wrap. Surf's a solid 1-2' w/ 2.5' drops on some combo peaks but bumpy under breezy trades. Partly cloudy skies.
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Sandy's:

Dropping small S swell + holding 8 sec NE trade wrap. Surf's semi-clean w/ side-offshore winds from the NE. Reefs: Full Pt-Half Pt looking fun at 2.5'; shore break's 1-2'+ on combo peaks under scattered clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding 8 sec trade swell. Surf's a mushy/rough 2-3' w/ peaks spread out across the bay and breaking outside left by the rocks. Slightly smaller 2.5' sets at Keiki corner under broken clouds.
Surf n Sea 728×90 generic 1/22/21

Winds

Monday
Range:
15-25+mph NE Trade
Filling in
Tuesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

Friday
Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

North

Monday
05/17

Primary

Rising 13s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 9s NE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
slightly bumpy
3+ afternoon
Tuesday
05/18

Primary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Wednesday
05/19

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising 16s WNW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Good

Thursday
05/20

Primary

Dropping Slow 13s WNW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
05/21

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Offshore

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West

Monday
05/17

Primary

Rising 13s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
slightly bumpy
Tuesday
05/18

Primary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Dropping 10s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair
Wednesday
05/19

Primary

Dropping 10s NNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3

Secondary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Thursday
05/20

Primary

Dropping Slow 13s WNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 13s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
Friday
05/21

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Dropping 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Offshore
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South

Monday
05/17

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Rising Slow 18s SSW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores

Tuesday
05/18

Primary

Dropping 10s S
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Good offshores

Wednesday
05/19

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising Slow 21s SSW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores

Thursday
05/20

Primary

Holding 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Up & holding 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Good offshores

Friday
05/21

Primary

Dropping 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Rising Slow 18s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores

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east

Monday
05/17

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Chunky

Tuesday
05/18

Primary

Dropping 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Chunky

Wednesday
05/19

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Thursday
05/20

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Chunky

Friday
05/21

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Average

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Current Swells:

Monday 05/17
Primary: Holding 8s ENE surf @2-3 
Secondary: Rising 13s NW surf @1-2+ 
Third: Dropping 13s S surf @1-2 
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Marine Warnings:

Monday   05/17
Trend: Small craft adv from Ka'iwi channel east ward to Maui to Big Is waters
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Sailing Report:

Monday   05/17
Good again thanks to fresh to isolated strong NE trades continue at 15-25+ mph
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Diving Report:

Monday   05/17
Fair to good for most prime North shore zones; good for most prime Westside spots; and fair-good for most top zones along South shores; poor-fair for most Windward zones.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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