SURFBOARD FACTORY BLACK FRIDAY DEC 24

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SURF N SEA 12 DAYS 2019

645am Obs Saturday 12/14

Breezy ENE trades 15-25 mph. Mostly cloudy with frequent showers morning, partly cloudy later. SCA still in effect.

Leftovers of the Large NNW... Westside down but clean. Tiny SW Taz pulse forecasted later for Town. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Dropping 11sec NNW. Lumpy, bumpy, sideshore conditions. Sunset is 3-5 w/ occ 6'... Pipeline currently 2-4'. Laniakea's 4-6'; Chuns 2-4'; Haleiwa 2-4' with cloudy skies. Billabong Pipe Masters OFF for today. Next call at 3pm.
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West:

Dropping NNW wrap. Makaha is 2-3' with decent AM conditions; stiff offshores. Cloudy Skies.
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Town:

Town is 1' with trade swell residuals; Offshore, but gloomy and rainy. Kewalos-Courts and Bowls to Kaisers has mostly 1'. Canoes-Queens Flat-1'. Mix of showers and high clouds.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding small, bumpy trade wrap. Surfs 1- 2' (knee-waist high) with mod-fresh trades.

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Sandy's:

Dropping 11sec NNWwrap + small trade wind mix. Sandy's is 1-3' with average conditions. Full point and Generals focusing the wrap. Partly cloudy skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Dropping 11sec NNW wrap and small trade swell. Mod-fresh trades and bumpy. Surf is 1-3', breaking middles to Keiki's with cloudy skies.
Cholos 728×90 Generic

Winds

Sunday
Range:
10-25mph NE Trade

Monday
Range:
10-25mph NE Trade

Tuesday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
10-25mph East Trade

Thursday
Range:
10-25mph ENE Trade

North

Sunday
12/15

Primary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair side-offshores

Monday
12/16

Primary

Rising late Afternoon 18s NNW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

Dropping 14s NW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Fair to good

Tuesday
12/17

Primary

Up & holding 15s NNW
Haw: 8-10 occ 12
Face: 14-18 occ 20

Secondary

Holding  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Wednesday
12/18

Primary

Dropping 13s NNW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

Rising early Evening 19s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Fair to good

Thursday
12/19

Primary

Up & Rising 16s NW
Haw: 6-8+
Face: 10-15+

Secondary

Dropping 12s NNW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Fair to good
8-12+' midday
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West

Sunday
12/15

Primary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Up & dropping 14s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair side-offshores
Monday
12/16

Primary

Rising late Afternoon 18s NNW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Holding 13s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
Tuesday
12/17

Primary

Up & holding 15s NNW
Haw: 6-8 occ +
Face: 10-15 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 12s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
Wednesday
12/18

Primary

Dropping 13s NNW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Dropping 11s SSW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
Thursday
12/19

Primary

Up & Rising 16s NW
Haw: 5-7
Face: 8-12

Secondary

Dropping 10s SSW
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Fair to good
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South

Sunday
12/15

Primary

Up & dropping 14s SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Monday
12/16

Primary

Holding 13s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Tuesday
12/17

Primary

Dropping 12s SW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3

Secondary

Rising Slow 8s SSE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores

Wednesday
12/18

Primary

Dropping 11s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 9s SSE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair to good

Thursday
12/19

Primary

Dropping 10s SSW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Dropping Slow 8s SSE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair to good

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east

Sunday
12/15

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Monday
12/16

Primary

Holding 9s ENE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Tuesday
12/17

Primary

Rising 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Wednesday
12/18

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Thursday
12/19

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

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Current Swells:

Sunday 12/15
Primary: Dropping 11s NNW surf @2-4 
Secondary: Holding 8s ENE surf @2-3+ 
Third: Up & dropping 14s SW surf @1-2 
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Marine Warnings:

Sunday   12/15
Small Craft Advisory for Channel Waters
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Sailing Report:

Sunday   12/15
Good with moderate-fresh tradewinds.
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Diving Report:

Sunday   12/15
Poor for North facing spots due to long run of large NW swell... Westside improving, better for outer reefs. East is fair for inside reefs; good for outer reefs... South remains fair-good due to minimal surf.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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