630am OBS, Monday, May 12th
Mostly cloudy and breezy morning. Small Craft Adv for all Hawaiian waters.
Small SSW. Small North. Average+ ENE trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, Noon, 4pm (recap-forecast).

North Shore:
Up and rising tiny .5' 15 sec NW + 5' 9 sec NE trade wrap. Fresh+ side offshore ENE trades causing some side bump/mush. Sunset 1-2'. Rocky Pt 1-2'; Pipe 0-1' (not really breaking); Chuns 1-2'; Laniakea 1-2'+; Ali'i Beach Park 0-1'. Plenty clouds.
West:
Down & dropping small 14 sec South + trace of N wrap. Clean with fresh offshore ENE Trades. Makaha is 1-2.' occ +. Focal west side reefs 3'. Long lulls between sets. Mostly cloudy skies.
Town:
Down & dropping small 14 sec South. Tiny NW trace. Clean offshores from fresh+ ENE trades. Waikiki reefs are 1-2.5'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 2' occ. 3' at top spots. Long lulls between sets and mostly cloudy skies.
Diamond Head:
Down & dropping small 14 sec South + trade wrap. Tattered torn side-shores from the fresh+ ENE trades... Surf's 1-3' on the combo peaks. Long lulls between sets and mostly cloudy skies.
Sandy's:
Up & Dropping 15 sec South + North wrap + trade wrap. Chunky side chop over the reefs and slightly better conditions in the shore break. Full Pt/Half Pt are a bit torn 2-3'. Shore break is better at 2-3' with nice sandbars and breaking close to shore. Mostly sunny skies.
East Makapu'u:
Dropping 10 sec. North wrap + Up & Rising 8 sec ENE trade swell. Surf's 2-3' with strong onshore chop, breaking outside on the left near the rocks to the middle and rolling into the shore break. Keiki corner up to 3'+ on the N wrap. Scattered clouds.Winds
15-30mph ENE Trade
10-25mph ENE Trade
10-20+mph ENE Trade
10-20mph East Trade
10-20mph East Trade
North
Primary
Up & holding 15s NWHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary

Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
poor to fair
bumpy mushy
Primary
Dropping Slow 13s NWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair-Good side-offshore
Primary
Dropping Slow 12s NNWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Primary

Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good
2'+ later
West
Primary
Up & holding 15s NWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
Dropping Slow 14s SSWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
poor to fair
Primary
Dropping Slow 13s NWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair-Good side-offshore
Primary
Dropping Slow 12s NNWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
Dropping Slow 12s SHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
Primary
Dropping Slow 11s SHaw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Secondary

Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
South
Primary
Dropping Slow 14s SSWHaw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores
Primary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary

Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good offshores
Primary
Dropping Slow 12s SHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
Up & dropping 16s SSWHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores
Primary
Dropping Slow 11s SHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary

Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
east
Primary
Dropping Slow 8s ENEHaw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Choppy
Primary

Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy
Primary

Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy
Primary

Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Typical
Primary

Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Current Swells:
Monday 05/12Secondary: Dropping Slow 14s SSW surf @1-2 occ 3
Third: Up & holding 15s NW surf @1 occ 2 Third: Dropping Slow 8s ENE surf @2-3

Marine Warnings:
Monday 05/12Small Craft Adv for all Hawaiian waters due to fresh-strong ENE Trades easing to fresh Tuesday...

Sailing Report:
Monday 05/12Good, especially for more experienced, with fresh-strong ENE trades trending down slightly through tomorrow...

Diving Report:
Monday 05/12North Shore: Fair for top zones (best bet deeper dives) due to fading surf and bumpy water and fresh side-offshore trades. West: Fair to good overall due to the South swell along with fresh offshore trades. South: Fair for most zones (best bet deeper dives) due to a lingering South swell and fresh side-offshore Trades. East: Poor for most zones due to choppy trade swell and fresh-strong onshore trades.
Oahu
Maui
Kauai
Big Island
Weather
Surf Advisory and Warning CriteriaLocation/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
Big Picture
INACTIVE.Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9
Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)
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