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Pico 728 Right hander 4-11-19

630am Obs Tuesday 6/25

Very Rainy, muggy with low-dark clouds with light Southeast winds switching to lite onshore seabreezes midday-ish. Flood watch and isolated brown water.

Tiny NE swell, tiny South. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Down & Holding a tiny NE wrap only for isolated reefs. Surf is smooth with calm to lite offshore. Sunset Pt. 0-1' and Pipe-OTW-Chuns 0-inches, Laniakea 0-1.5' maybe the odd 2' and Haleiwa mostly flat under wet clouds.
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West:

Down and holding tiny South. Makaha is 0-1' and bumpy with early light SE flow becoming even mushier later with mid-morning seabreezes all under cloudy skies.
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Town:

Down and holding small South. Surf is bad and bumpy onshore at 1-2' with inconsistent, short interval energy, from Kewalos to Courts, Bowls to Kaisers; Canoes-Queens are 1-2' under cloudy skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down and holding South. Surf is bumpy onshore 1-2' with slow whitewater sections under cloudy skies.
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Sandy's:

Holding small SE & mix of NE trade wind swell. Surf is bumpy light onshore 1-2.5' from Cobbles to Gas Chambers. Full Pt showing not as consistent with smaller short period energy with plenty dark clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding 9sec NE wind swell. Makapu'u is fair at 1-2' with some plus sets trying on the outside left, mostly cracking inside. Keiki's, too under clouds.
GTH INSTA 728 4.7.19

Winds

Tuesday
Range:
5-10mph SE
Heavy Rain, Isolated Floods
Wednesday
Range:
5-10mph SE

Thursday
Range:
5-10mph SE

Friday
Range:
10-20mph East Trade

Saturday
Range:
5-15mph East Trade

North

Tuesday
06/25

Primary

Dropping 10s NE
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  
Haw: 0
Face: 0
smooth

Wednesday
06/26

Primary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

Holding 9s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
divin , paddlin

Thursday
06/27

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Friday
06/28

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin

Saturday
06/29

Primary

Rising 10s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Offshore

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West

Tuesday
06/25

Primary

Dropping 10s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0

Secondary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
smooth
Wednesday
06/26

Primary

Holding 12s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Smooth earlier-mushy mid-morning
Thursday
06/27

Primary

Holding 11s SSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy late-morning
Friday
06/28

Primary

Rising Slow 15s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Saturday
06/29

Primary

Rising 22s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising 10s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
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South

Tuesday
06/25

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
slightly choppy
terrible
Wednesday
06/26

Primary

Holding 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth earlier-mushy mid-morning

Thursday
06/27

Primary

Holding 11s SSW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Smooth early-mushy late-morning

Friday
06/28

Primary

Rising Slow 15s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
trades back
Saturday
06/29

Primary

Rising 22s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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east

Tuesday
06/25

Primary

Dropping 9s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
smooth

Wednesday
06/26

Primary

Dropping 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Thursday
06/27

Primary

Rising 8s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Friday
06/28

Primary

Holding 8s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical
trades
Saturday
06/29

Primary

Holding 8s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

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Current Swells:

Tuesday 06/25
Primary: Dropping 9s NE surf @1-2+ 
Secondary: Holding 14s SSW surf @1 occ 2 
Third: Dropping 10s NE surf @1 occ 2 
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Marine Warnings:

Tuesday   06/25
Flash Flood Watch for Oahu
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Sailing Report:

Tuesday   06/25
Poor : tons of rain, dark with lite ESE winds leading to late AM seabreezes. Trades not back till around till Friday.
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Diving Report:

Tuesday   06/25
Poor Diving Island wide. Rain run off, dark clouds. Diving is fair for isolated areas and depths for North shore; fair to good for select West shore zones + fair-good for select deeper South shore zones; Fair for 'inside reefs' and Fair for select 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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