SURF N SEA 728 BLOWOUT

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SURF BOARD FACTORY STEP UP NOV.22 DEC 2019

645am Obs Friday Jan 24th

Crisp and clear again. Super light Trades with light midday-afternoon seabreezes mixing and mushing out most spots.

Moderate WNW. Small ENE Wind swell and tiny trace of SW/WNW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Way down and dropping 15 sec WNW. Sunset to Pipe are 4-6' with higher sets off and on. Chun's-Laniakea-Ali'i 3-5' occ plus; gorgeous dawn with plenty sunshine on the way.
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West:

Way down and dropping 15 sec WNW. Makaha is 3-4' with chance of higher sets; super clean early but on-shores late AM under clear skies.
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Town:

Down and dropping tiny SW, isolated traces of WNW. Kewalos to Courts and Bowls to Kaisers all super clean at 0-1.5' maybe barely occ 2' under clear skies.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Down and dropping small SW and tiny isolated WNW wrap up to 2'; smooth water and lite winds under clear skies.

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Sandy's:

Holding tiny 8sec ENE Trade wind swell. Sandy's is smooth 1-2' breaking Full Pt to Pipe Littles, and fun shorebreak under clear skies...
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East Makapu'u:

Holding tiny ENE trade swell and maybe some NW wrap later. Surf's super clean at 1-2' under clear skies.
Cholos 728×90 Generic

Winds

Friday
Range:
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes
Isolated seabreezes, backing NE trades evening
Saturday
Range:
10-20+mph ENE Trade

Sunday
Range:
10-20+mph East Trade

Monday
Range:
5-15mph ESE

Tuesday
Range:
5-10mph SW Kona

North

Friday
01/24

Primary

Dropping Fast 14s WNW
Haw: 4-6+
Face: 6-10+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good to excellent

Saturday
01/25

Primary

Rising Midday 18s NW
Haw: 12-18
Face: 18-30

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
by noon; TRADES return
Sunday
01/26

Primary

Rising 16s NW
Haw: 10-15+
Face: 15-25+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Monday
01/27

Primary

Dropping 14s NW
Haw: 8-12
Face: 14-20

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

Tuesday
01/28

Primary

Dropping 14s NW
Haw: 6-8+
Face: 10-15+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

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West

Friday
01/24

Primary

Dropping Fast 14s WNW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

Rising Slow 14s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good to excellent
Saturday
01/25

Primary

Rising Midday 18s NW
Haw: 10-15
Face: 15-25

Secondary

Rising Slow 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Sunday
01/26

Primary

Rising 16s NW
Haw: 8-12+
Face: 14-20+

Secondary

Rising Slow 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Monday
01/27

Primary

Dropping 14s NW
Haw: 6-10
Face: 10-18

Secondary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Tuesday
01/28

Primary

Dropping 14s NW
Haw: 5-7
Face: 8-12

Secondary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
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South

Friday
01/24

Primary

Rising Slow 14s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping Fast 15s WSW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good
West wrap
Saturday
01/25

Primary

Rising Slow 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
trades back
Sunday
01/26

Primary

Rising Slow 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Monday
01/27

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Tuesday
01/28

Primary

Holding 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good

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east

Friday
01/24

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy
LITE TRADES
Saturday
01/25

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Sunday
01/26

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Monday
01/27

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Choppy

Tuesday
01/28

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Rough

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Current Swells:

Friday 01/24
Primary: Dropping Fast 14s WNW surf @4-6+ 
Secondary: Rising Slow 14s SW surf @0-1.5 
Third: Holding 8s ENE surf @1-2 
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Marine Warnings:

Friday   01/24
None
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Sailing Report:

Friday   01/24
Not great. Lite and Variables with midday seabreezes (lite) thru Friday before Trades return Friday eve into Saturday-Sunday.
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Diving Report:

Friday   01/24
Much improved for deep dives at select spots but still have sizable WNW for North. Good for deeper West. South good for select prime zones with small surf. East is good and for select outside reefs.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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