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Seaspecs April 2018 Matt

645a OBS Thursday April 26th Pwrd by Upper Cervical Hawaii

Light to Moderate ENE trades filling 10-20mph. Broken-overcast skies.

BIG PICTURE Update Monday 4/23. Minus Low tide affecting size consistency. New NW + SSW building all day & average ENE trade swell. Call 596-SURF 7a, 12, 3, 5p recap-forecast.

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North Shore:

Some Brown Water: Waimea. Rising slowly on a 15sec NW to 3' this late afternoon. Sunset to Rocky Pt 1-2'; Pipe/Backdoor 2', Chuns 1-2'; Laniakea 1-2', Ali'i Beach Park up to 2' & moderate ENE Trades are filling in.
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West:

NW Rising slowly + small SW. Makaha is 0-1-2' (3' this afternoon) with smooth light offshores filling under broken clouds.
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Town:

Rising slowly 14sec SSW. Surf's 1-2' occ. 2.5' and clean offshore with fair form and decent energy for Kewalos to Kaisers. Threes-Pops-Queens-Publics mostly 1-2.5' under scattered clouds.
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Diamond Head:

Holding SSW + background wind wrap. Surf is 1-2.5 maybe occ 3' on takeoffs and semi-torn later due to 10-20mph ENE Trades coming under broken clouds.
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Sandy's:

Holding the mix of ENE + inconsistent new SSW. Surf's 1-2 occ 3' w/ moderate ENE trades creating some side-off bumpiness; Full Point-Pipe littles decent shape and up to about 3' and some good sandbars in shorepound. Generals occ revealing the SSW & broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding the moderate 8-9 sec ENE. Surf is choppy 1-2-3' with moderate ENE. Top sets breaking just outside on the left with some ramp/barrel sections for the inside sandbar. Slightly smaller 1-2.5' toward Keiki's under plenty clouds.
BIG CITY DINER MARCH-MAY 2018

Weather

Thursday
with="64"

Temp
min:
72°F
max: 86°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
13mph ENE

Friday
with="64"

Temp
min:
71°F
max: 86°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
13mph WSW

Saturday
with="64"

Temp
min:
69°F
max: 82°F

Overcast

Wind:
13mph N

Sunday
with="64"

Temp
min:
69°F
max: 85°F

Partly Cloudy

Wind:
8mph W

Monday
with="64"

Temp
min:
72°F
max: 86°F

Partly Cloudy

Wind:
3mph NW

Range:
10-20mph ENE Trade

Range:
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes
South flow veering SW to W to N
Range:
5-15mph NNE
post front passage
Range:
5-15mph Kona WSW

Range:
5-10mph SW Kona

North

Thursday
04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising Slow
NW Buoy 2' 15s; smoother, cloudy
Friday
04/27
NW
Haw: 3-6
Face: 5-10
Holding
5' 14s
Saturday
04/28
NW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Dropping Fast
4' 11s
Sunday
04/29
NW
Haw: 8-10+
Face: 12-18+
Rising Fast
12' 12-14s; nearby Low, disorg. surf
Monday
04/30
NW
Haw: 8-10+
Face: 12-18+
Holding
11' 13s
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West

Thursday
04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Rising Midday
NW + SSW; light offshore, mostly cloudy
Friday
04/27
NW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Rising

Saturday
04/28
NW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Dropping Fast

Sunday
04/29
NW
Haw: 4-6 occ 8
Face: 6-10 occ 14
Rising Fast
close interval, light side-onshore
Monday
04/30
NW SSW
Haw: 5-7
Face: 8-12
Rising
+ new SSW
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South

Thursday
04/26
SSE+SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Rising
2' 14 sec + recent SW; Clean moderate offshore, mostly clouds
Friday
04/27
SSE+SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
Holding

Saturday
04/28
S-SW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising

Sunday
04/29
S-SW
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +
Rising
2' 15s
Monday
04/30
S-SW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Holding
2' 14s
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east

Thursday
04/26
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Dropping late Afternoon
8' 8-9s; onshore chop, overcast
Friday
04/27
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding
Lite South Konas= offshore
Saturday
04/28
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Holding
North winds post front passage
Sunday
04/29
ENE+N
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Rising

Monday
04/30
ENE+N
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Holding

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Current Swells:

Thursday   04/26
Primary: Rising  NW  Surf is 2.5' surf at 15sec; 3' later
Secondary: Rising  S-SW  Surf is 1-2.5' peaking 3' later 14 sec
Third: Holding  E-NE  Surf is up to 1-3' at 8-9 sec
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Marine Warnings:

Thursday   04/26
Improving but still some Isolated dirty water + moderate ENE trades dropping
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Sailing Report:

Thursday   04/26
Good with Moderate ENE Trades and decent weather
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Diving Report:

Thursday   04/26
Isolated Brown water run off for many shores but improving; fair for most deeper North zones & good for isolated deeper West dive zones. Fair for select inside reefs for Windward shores and fair-good for isolated deeper south shores

Oahu

SUNSET
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Trades light-moderate
fair
3' later
ROCKY POINT
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Trades light-moderate
fair to good

Pipeline
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Trades light-moderate
fair

HALEIWA
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
ENE Trades light-moderate
fair

MAKAHA
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
good

ALA MOANA
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
ENE Trades moderate
fair to good

Waikiki
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
ENE Trades moderate
good

Diamond Head
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
bumpy

Sandy Beach
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate
Side-Offshore

Makapuu
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate
choppy

Maui

Hookipa
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Trades moderate-fresh
bumpy

Honolua
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 0
Face: 0
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
fair to good

Kihei
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Trades light-moderate
fair to good

Hana
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
choppy

Lahaina
Thursday   04/26
S-SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
ENE Trades light
good

Kauai

Hanalei
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
fair
Remnant Dirty Water
Majors
Thursday   04/26
NW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
ENE Trades moderate
fair to good
Remnant Dirty Water
Poipu
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
fair to good
Remnant Dirty Water
Kapaa
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
choppy
Remnant Dirty Water

Big Island

Hamakua Coast
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
choppy

Kohala
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 0
Face: 0
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
Offshore

Kona
Thursday   04/26
SW+SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Trades light
good
isolated
Hilo
Thursday   04/26
E-NE
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
choppy

Kau
Thursday   04/26
COMBO
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
ENE Trades moderate-fresh
fair
SW+ENE

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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