Cholos Mem Day Salsa 19

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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic

645am UPDATE OBS Friday 5/24

Another nice morning with slightly more Easterly Trades but still mixing with mid-late morning onshore Seabreezes thru the afternoon thru Memorial Day.

A fun moderate SSW (isolated high sets) & small East trade swell and a new small NW building slow. 808-596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 recap-forecast.

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North Shore:

Up and Rising Slowly on a 13 sec NW (3' late afternoon). Surf is currently super clean light offshores at 0-1.5' with nice diving and paddling. Sunset Pt Reef 0-1.5', Pipe-OTW 0-1', Chuns 0-1.5', and Haleiwa 0-1' under scattered clouds.
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West:

Holding the moderate SSW. Up & Rising Slowly on a 13 sec NW (3' late afternoon). Makaha is smooth, w/ light offshore at 1-2' occ soft 3' per 30min (breaking behind the reef. Bigger occ 4' sets for top west side magnets) under clear skies but landheating clouds and seabreezes coming mid to late morning.
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Town:

Holding SSW Sets at 2-3' occ 4'. Light East Trades mixing with onshore seabreeze mix towards lunch-afternoon. Well overhead top sets from Kewalos to Courts, Bowls & Kaisers 2-4'. Canoes-Queens are 2-3+' under fairly clear skies (convective cloud build up this afternoon).
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Holding moderate-high 15 sec SSW at 2-4' (bigger sets at Browns) and fair-good form but bumpy sideshores, crowded. Chance of trade and mix of 11 am lite sea breezes into the afternoon. Fairly Clear skies first half of the day.
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Sandy's:

Holding heavy SSW and small East trade wind swell. Surf 3-4' occ + is disjointed and doubling up in shorebreak from Middle Peaks- Gas Chambers. Full Pt is slightly smaller at 3' maybe a plus all under broken clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Up and Holding the small 8sec East swell. Makapu'u is bumpy at 1-2' occ 3' breaking near shore and 2.5' max at Keikis under broken clouds.
GTH INSTA 728 4.7.19

Winds

Saturday
Range:
5-15mph East Trade
seabreezes late morning?
Sunday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade
11am seabreezes
Monday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade
11am seabreezes
Tuesday
Range:
5-15mph ENE Trade

Wednesday
Range:
5-15mph ENE Trade

North

Saturday
05/25

Primary

Rising 11s NW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Sunday
05/26

Primary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Monday
05/27

Primary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
smooth

Tuesday
05/28

Primary

Dropping 9s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Wednesday
05/29

Primary

Dropping 8s NW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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West

Saturday
05/25

Primary

Rising 11s NW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Rising 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Good
Sunday
05/26

Primary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Good
Monday
05/27

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

Dropping 10s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Good
Tuesday
05/28

Primary

Dropping Slow 14s SSW
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+

Secondary

Dropping 9s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good
Wednesday
05/29

Primary

Dropping 13s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 8s NW
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
Good
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South

Saturday
05/25

Primary

Rising 18s SSW
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +

Secondary

Dropping 14s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Good offshores

Sunday
05/26

Primary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good
isolated +
Monday
05/27

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

Rising 18s SSW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Good
isolated +
Tuesday
05/28

Primary

Dropping Slow 14s SSW
Haw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+

Secondary

Rising 18s S
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Good

Wednesday
05/29

Primary

Dropping 13s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None 16s S
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Good
isolated +
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east

Saturday
05/25

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical
Trades back
Sunday
05/26

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair

Monday
05/27

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Tuesday
05/28

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Wednesday
05/29

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

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Current Swells:

Saturday 05/25
Primary: Rising 11s NW surf @3-5 
Secondary: Rising 18s SSW surf @2-3 occ + 
Third: Holding 8s ENE surf @1-2+ 
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Marine Warnings:

Saturday   05/25
No advisories
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Sailing Report:

Saturday   05/25
Fair with light East Trades possibly mixing with seabreezes mid-late morning to afternoon
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Diving Report:

Saturday   05/25
Poor to fair for most North shores zones from NW swell; fair to good for select deeper West shores but SSW swell surges + fair for select deep dives along South shores; good for 'inside reefs' and fair for select 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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