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PACIFIC DIAMOND 728 6/7/21

630am OBS Tuesday 6/22/21

Another beautiful Summer day. Light-moderate ENE trades. No Marine Warnings, extreme UV's sticking around.

Fading, Small NW-NNW + New, small WNW expected. Small, fading South + New long period South, small ENE trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon & 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Dropping 11 sec NW-NNW. Clean and fun! Sunset is 1-2' occ 3' on sets. Rocky Pt 1-2' occ 3'. Pipe/Backdoor roughly 1-2'. Chuns 1-2' occ 3'. Laniakea 1-2'+. Haleiwa 1-2' occ + and scattered clouds.
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West:

Dropping 14 sec South + Rising 20 sec South + Dropping 11 sec NW-NNW. Makaha is clean and glassy w/ 1-2' occ 3' sets. Light offshores this morning, likely sea breezes mixing in by lunch under few clouds.
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Town:

Dropping 14 sec South + Rising 20 sec South. Low Tide affecting size and consistency. Clean with light offshores now, isolated seabreeze mix by midday to afternoon. Waikiki reefs are 1-2'+. Ala Moana, Kaisers-Rockpiles & to Kewalos seeing 1-2' very occ 3' now on top sets under few-scattered clouds.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Dropping 14 sec South + Rising 20 sec South. Low Tide affecting size and consistency. Surf's clean at 1-2 occ 3' but steep on the drops. Few-Scattered clouds.
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Sandy's:

Dropping 14 sec South + Rising 20 sec South + minor trade wrap. Semi-clean conditions w/ light side-offshore winds: Full Pt-Half Pt 1-2' occ 3' and shore break's 1-2'+ under scattered clouds.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding small 9 sec trade swell. Surf's a semi-choppy 1-2', breaking inside the bay. Sandbar-Keiki corner ~1.5' under scattered clouds.
Surf n Sea 728×90 generic 1/22/21

Winds

Tuesday
Range:
5-15+mph ENE Trade
Isolated Seabreezes toward afternoon
Wednesday
Range:
5-15mph East Trade
Seabreezes toward midday-afternoon
Thursday
Range:
5-15mph East Trade
Seabreezes toward midday-afternoon
Friday
Range:
5-10mph ESE
Seabreezes toward midday-afternoon
Saturday
Range:
5-15mph East Trade
Seabreezes toward midday-afternoon

North

Tuesday
06/22

Primary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising Later 16s WNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good offshores

Wednesday
06/23

Primary

Rising 14s WNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores

Thursday
06/24

Primary

Up & holding 12s WNW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Offshore

Friday
06/25

Primary

Dropping 10s WNW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising 13s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Good offshores

Saturday
06/26

Primary

Up & holding 12s NW
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7

Secondary

Dropping 9s WNW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores

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West

Tuesday
06/22

Primary

Dropping 11s NNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
Wednesday
06/23

Primary

Rising 14s WNW
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3

Secondary

Up & Rising 17s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
Thursday
06/24

Primary

Up & holding 12s WNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Holding 16s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Offshore
Friday
06/25

Primary

Dropping 15s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping 10s WNW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair to good
Saturday
06/26

Primary

Up & holding 12s NW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Up & Rising 13s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
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South

Tuesday
06/22

Primary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising 20s S
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Good offshores

Wednesday
06/23

Primary

Up & Rising 17s S
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising 21s S
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good offshores

Thursday
06/24

Primary

Holding 16s S
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Up & holding 14s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Good

Friday
06/25

Primary

Dropping 15s S
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Dropping 12s S
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

Saturday
06/26

Primary

Up & Rising 13s S
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising 19s SSW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good

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east

Tuesday
06/22

Primary

Holding 9s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Average

Wednesday
06/23

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Thursday
06/24

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Friday
06/25

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

Saturday
06/26

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Typical

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Current Swells:

Tuesday 06/22
Primary: Dropping 14s S surf @1-2 occ 3 
Secondary: Dropping 11s NNW surf @1-2 occ 3 
Third: Holding 9s ENE surf @1-2 
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Marine Warnings:

Tuesday   06/22
None but extreme UV Ratings
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Sailing Report:

Tuesday   06/22
Fair to good as ENE Trades flow at a light to moderate pace.
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Diving Report:

Tuesday   06/22
NW swell creates minor surges. Overall good for most prime North shore zones; good for most deeper Westside spots with South swell surges; Medium S swell: fair for most prime deeper zones along South shores; fair-good for most inside Windward reefs and fair-good for prime zones beyond outer reefs.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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