SURFBOARD FACTORY HAWAII FEB 2019 GENERIC LONG

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Surf n Sea 728×90 generic

Noon Update Obs Friday Sept 20th

Moderate to brisk NE. Overcast with isolated showers spilling over Leeward Coasts. Small Craft Advisory for Maui/Big Isle Channel Waters.

SNN BIG PICTURE UPDATE: Wednesday 9/18 is looking good esp for Town. Today: Building small SSW and ENE swell + new tiny NW. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3 & 5 (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Up and Rising 12sec WNW swell. Surf is 1-2' at isolated reefs. Sunset Pt. and Rocky Pt. and Chuns are 1-2', Xhuns up to solid 2', Laniakea 0-1.5' & Haleiwa is Flat-1.5' under overcast skies.
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West:

Up and Rising 12sec WNW swell. Up and Rising 16sec SSW (20sec Forerunners). Makaha is offshore w/ surf coming in 0-2' sets for now. Focal Reefs up to chest or 2+' local size under overcast skies.
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Town:

Slowly fading small 14sec SSW with 16-18sec SSW filling in. Surf's brisk offshore at 1-2' occ 3' at isolated reefs: Kewalos, Magic Island, Bowls, and Kaisers look fun; Canoes-Queens are chest-shoulder high under overcast clouds.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Slowly fading small 14sec SSW with 16-18sec SSW filling in. Surf's stiff side off at 1-2 occ 3' on the drop (mostly Waist to shoulder high). Overcast clouds. See SNN CAM.
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Sandy's:

Mixed mid-long period SSW pulses + 11sec E (Kiko) + 8s NE trade swell. Sets are 1-3' breaking outside. Brisk Sideoffshores under overcast skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Holding 8sec NE trade swell + 11sec E bump from Kiko. Makapu'u is choppy 1-3' and crumbling with some outside left and mostly inside close to shore with Keiki side a bit less 2.5' solid energy under overcast skies.
Cholos 728×90 Generic

Winds

Friday
Range:
10-25mph NE Trade

Saturday
Range:
10-20+mph NE Trade

Sunday
Range:
5-10mph East Trade
veering variable then seabreezes
Monday
Range:
5-7mph Variables
veering variable then seabreezes
Tuesday
Range:
5-10mph Trades light

North

Friday
09/20

Primary

Rising 11s W
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
WSW
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Dropping 9s W
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
WSW
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Rising 15s NW
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good offshores

Monday
09/23

Primary

Holding 12s NW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Tuesday
09/24

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

None  
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

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West

Friday
09/20

Primary

Rising 11s W
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3

Secondary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Up & holding 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 9s W
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Rising 15s NW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Monday
09/23

Primary

Dropping Slow 14s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 12s NW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Good
Tuesday
09/24

Primary

Dropping 11s NW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
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South

Friday
09/20

Primary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping Slow 14s SW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Offshore
+ Small WSW
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Up & holding 16s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

Holding 9s WSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good offshores

Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 15s SSW
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Good

Monday
09/23

Primary

Dropping Slow 14s SSW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Rising Slow 18s SSW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good

Tuesday
09/24

Primary

Rising 16s SSW
Haw: 1-2 occ 3
Face: 2-4 occ 5

Secondary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Good offshores

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east

Friday
09/20

Primary

Holding 11s E
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Typical
former Hurr. Kiko
Saturday
09/21

Primary

Dropping Slow 10s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair to good
former Hurr. Kiko
Sunday
09/22

Primary

Holding 9s E
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3

Secondary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair to good

Monday
09/23

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Tuesday
09/24

Primary

Holding 8s ENE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Average

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Current Swells:

Friday 09/20
Primary: Rising 16s SSW surf @1-2 occ 3 
Secondary: Holding 11s E surf @1-3 
Third: Rising 11s W surf @1-2 
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Marine Warnings:

Friday   09/20
Small Craft Adv for Maui and Big Is channels
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Sailing Report:

Friday   09/20
Good with fresh ENE trades
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Diving Report:

Friday   09/20
Good for most dive zones along North Shores; good dives for select West shore spots + fair to good for select deep South shore spots (Swell surging) and... good for 'inside reefs' and fair-good for select 'outside reefs' along Windward shores.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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