Wednesday, September 17, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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Day 3 is LIVE for Wednesday. Tuesday recap: Big Names move into round 3 at Hurley Pro Surf News Netork, 16 September, San Clemente - Brazilian Filipe Toledo (BRA) roared to life today, taking to the air and stealing the show during Round 2 of the Hurley Pro at Trestles with the highest scoring ride of the event so far: 9.83 points. After four consecutive lay days, competition resumed at fever pitch and the first eliminations were dealt. Excellent overhead surf offered lengthy rides and saw strong performances by top seeds Gabriel Medina (BRA) and Kelly Slater (USA) to set the tone for what promises to be an event for the history books.... Read the Full Story
The surf and ocean community come together... It is International Coastal Cleanup Day on Saturday so we are upping it up a notch and cleaning for the whole fricken weekend!   To keep it basic, details as follows:   Meet at Makua Beach, look for the blue flags Date: September 20th 9:30 AM Check in 10-12 Clean 12-3 Live Music, Games, Prizes, Keiki Activities (including a mermaid!), and more..... Read the Full Story
After all the surf we've had...lets say Thanks together. The Surfrider Foundation is dedicated to the protection and preservation of our world’s oceans, waves and beaches. Founded in 1984 by a handful of visionary surfers, the Surfrider Foundation now maintains over 50,000 members and 63 chapters across the country and around the world. The Oahu Chapter has been working on issues of beach access, water quality, coastal preservation and plastic marine debris. For more information, go towww.surfrider.org/oahu..... Read the Full Story
Don't miss this special engagement: EDDIE WEN’ GO The Story of the Upside Down Canoe! Eddie Would Go! Sept 19-20th and Coinciding with Hōkūleʻa’s round-the-world voyage, this imaginative production uses hula, chant, masks and puppetry to tell of Eddie Aikau’s act of sacrifice through the eyes of sea creatures who watched from underneath the upside-down canoe. Slack key guitar wunderkind Danny Carvalho, has created an original sound scape and will perform it live...Dont miss this special tribute to our Hawaiian Legend: Eddie Aikau. Read the Full Story
Tuesday is Game on for Mens Hurley Pro in 3-5' Trestles! Surf News Network, 16 Sept. The Hurley Pro at Trestles, stop no. 8 of 11 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour, has been called ON today for Round 2 followed by possible Round 3 and in 4 - 6 foot waves. The Swatch Women's Pro Trestles is on standby for the day. "It's looking good this morning," said ASP Commissioner Kieren Perrow. "We saw the ocean fill in over night and there's a lot more consistency today. The waves are great when they come and we are definitely on".... Read the Full Story
Goodbye ASP - Hello World Surf League   The Association of Surfing Professionals is no longer. Well, the name is no longer, at least. Beginning in 2015, the new moniker of the association of surfing professionals is the World Surf League, or WSL. In a letter to the surfing community, ASP/WSL CEO Paul Speaker broke the news. “We understand that for many of you reading this, the letters “ASP” have significant meaning and that this news might be unsettling,” he wrote. “We hope you will give us the benefit of the doubt and that, over time, you will come to see this change as positive for the sport we all love. At the end of the day, professional surfing’s DNA remains intact: we’re about the world’s best surfers in the world’s best waves. That will never change.” Read the Full Story
Next stop on the Stand Up World Tour starts tomorrow in Huntington Beach   The 2014 Huntington Beach Pro Grand Slam will host both Stand Up World Tour Surfing and Stand Up World Series Racing events from the 15th – 21st September in Surf City USA. As the most comprehensive event featuring a star studded line up of the world’s very best athletes, the $45,000 Huntington Beach Pro will be a true showcase of the leading edge of the sport, while celebrating Amateur and youth participation with a large Trials event and Open Racing division, not to mention the Na Kama Kai Youth Challenge (U16) taking place on the final Sunday of the event. Read the Full Story
LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Big SSW fills Saturday peaks Sunday and last into Tuesday. WNW fill to 3' sunday and 4' by Monday BIG SURF PICTURE  9/13/14 Saturday SPAC: The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.   Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below... Read the Full Story
Team Jamie's win the Qiantang Shoot Out
Finals Go off on the Largest Wave in the Event’s History Team Honolulu of Jamie O’Brien and Jamie Sterling took home the $10,000.00 team first prize in the largest “river bore” wave in the Red Bull Qiantang Surfing Shoot Out history with wave sections reaching ten feet.
Read the Full Story
Upsets at Hurley & Swatch Pro this week! Photo: Costa Rican hero Carlos Munoz © ASP/Rowland. Surf News Network, 11 September, 2014 - Wildcards delivered major upsets in the Hurley Pro at Trestles today as Tanner Gudauskas (USA) and Carlos Munoz (CRI) successively defeated top seeds Kelly Slater (USA) and Gabriel Medina (BRA) in non-elimination Round 1. The Swatch Women’s Pro Trestles was equally electric with Lakey Peterson (USA) eliminating reigning two-time ASP Women’s World Champion Carissa Moore (HAW), who will now relinquish her world ratings lead. The women’s Quarterfinalists have been decided after the completion of Round 4.... Read the Full Story
Catching up with Nathan Florence We’re going to get to know the Florence family real well over the next five years, this cute and deadly band of Hawaiian surf bums comprising three brothers (John, 20, Nathan, 19, Ivan 17) and a skating-surfing super mom, Alex. You know all about John, yeah? Raised on the sand, towed into his first Pipe bombs by Herbie Fletch (pops of Christian and Nathan and grand-daddy to Greyson) when he was seven, currently the owner of the finest contract in surfing, Kelly Slater aside. Read the Full Story
Hurley Pro action LIVE at Lowers Thursday John John Florence Man Hack Warm Up © ASP/Rowland. New SSW swell filling in throughout the day. It's currently about 3-4' and lined up. Chance of onshores. Surf News Network, 11 September, 2014: The Hurley Pro at Trestles, stop no. 8 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour, has been called ON for Round 1 in clean 3-to-5 foot waves. Competition will begin at 8:00 a.m. local time (PDT) with men's Round 1. Round 4 of the Swatch Women's Pro Trestles is on standby.... Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of 'Eddie Wen Go' at Hawaii Theater Friday

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Wednesday Sept 17th 630am Update

Clear, light NE Trades giving way to 11am lite convective onshore seabreezes with more cloud build up into the afternoon. This pattern is set into Sunday. Low tide 4am. 1.8' High tide at Noon dropping out to a 0.4' Low tide at 730pm.

High Surf advsry dropped for southern exposures. The epic swell has eased another notch but still here. Buoys are 3' 14 seconds.

NORTH: Up and holding on the 12  second NNW. It's a consistent and smooth 2-4' now at Sunset getting down the middle and 2-4' at Rocky Pts and at Chuns; Pipe 1-3'; everywhere's smooth with some morning sickness & lite offshore for now with seabreezes near midday;  See SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is down and dropping on the SSW and up on the NNW; currently at a glassy 2-3' maybe a plus and & smooth-glassy; expect it to mush out with isolated seabreezes late morning to afternoon. Town:  Down and dropping on the 14 sec period SSW swell at 2-3 occ 3.5' and still inconsistent for top spots top sets.  Waters perfect with glass to lite offshores at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos and again seabreeze later around 11am and a evening glass off. (check our Bowls-Courts CAM). Diamond Head: Down and dropping on the  SSW at 2-3 occ 4' with superb glass to offshores but likely onshores 11am ish then to the evening glass off. (see SNN Cam). Sandy's: Down and dropping on the South at a nice clean 2-3 occ 4';  all over, plus generals and still some powerful shorepound.  East: Makapu'u:  Holding the small below normal NE and S wrap 0-1 barely 2'  set near the shore on the Keiki's side and semi smooth lite onshores. Great diving all windward.

Events, News etc.

Two big beach clean ups this Saturday 1. SurfRiders at Sand Island HERE  2. Sustainable Coastlines out west a Makua (all weekend) HERE.

Dont miss 'Eddie Wen Go'
The story of the upsidedown canoe. (Eddie Aikau) at Hawaii Theater this Friday nite! Eddie Would Go....so....GO HERE

It's ON Live Wednesday and to finish Thursday on the same building SSW that we have. The 8th stop on the  ASP World Tour: The Hurley Pro at Trestles this Tuesday Sept 9-20th. GO LIVE

Quote of the week "Nothing I do out there is really conscious...it just kinda happens and I go with it" John John at Trestles.

SNN BIG Picture updated Friday 9/6 Go Here

Local Swell Tracker updated Go Here

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Wed '09/17'
Rising - N-NW
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
clear, clean
Thu '09/18'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
Fri '09/19'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Sat '09/20'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Sun '09/21'
Holding - N-NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Haleiwa
Wed '09/17'
Time
Ht.
L 2:34 AM 0.4 ft.
H 11:01 AM 1.5 ft.
L 5:15 PM 0.3 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:31 PM
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 11:35 PM 0.8 ft.
L 3:43 AM 0.3 ft.
H 11:49 AM 1.5 ft.
L 5:46 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 12:18 AM 0.9 ft.
L 4:38 AM 0.3 ft.
H 12:29 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:11 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM
Sat '09/20'
Time
Ht.
H 12:53 AM 1 ft.
L 5:24 AM 0.3 ft.
H 1:02 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:34 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:28 PM
Sun '09/21'
Time
Ht.
H 1:25 AM 1.1 ft.
L 6:06 AM 0.2 ft.
H 1:33 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:56 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:20 AM
Sunset: 6:27 PM

West
Rising - COMBO
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
clear, clean; NNW up; SSW down
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2

South
Holding - S
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
clear, clean
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
2.5' 13 sec
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - S
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Honolulu Harbor
Wed '09/17'
Time
Ht.
H 11:37 PM 0.9 ft.
L 4:39 AM 0.5 ft.
H 12:03 PM 1.8 ft.
L 7:20 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:31 PM
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 12:37 AM 1 ft.
L 5:48 AM 0.4 ft.
H 12:51 PM 1.9 ft.
L 7:51 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 1:20 AM 1.1 ft.
L 6:43 AM 0.4 ft.
H 1:31 PM 1.9 ft.
L 8:16 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM
Sat '09/20'
Time
Ht.
H 1:55 AM 1.2 ft.
L 7:29 AM 0.3 ft.
H 2:04 PM 1.9 ft.
L 8:39 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:28 PM
Sun '09/21'
Time
Ht.
H 2:27 AM 1.4 ft.
L 8:11 AM 0.3 ft.
H 2:35 PM 1.8 ft.
L 9:01 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:20 AM
Sunset: 6:27 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
clear, clean
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Rising Later - E-NE
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3

Winds
Hawaii
Wed '09/17'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Thu '09/18'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Fri '09/19'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Sat '09/20'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Sun '09/21'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes

Current Swells

Wed '09/17'
Primary : N-NW / Rising , 2-4' isolated
Secondary : S-SW / Dropping , 2-3 occ 3.5'
Third : E-NE / Holding , 0-1'

Marine Warnings

Wed '09/17'
Hawaii : High surf advsry dropped for all South shores; Extreme UV ratings pack the Bull Frog.

Sailing Report

Wed '09/17'
Hawaii : Poor-Fair early and improving with Light trades filling to good 5-15' with a mix of Leeward seabreezes late morning.

Diving Report

Wed '09/17'
Hawaii : Best is out East; fair for deeper north dives (swell); fair/good out for deep west, fair for deep south....due to South swell.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset N-NW 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Pipeline N-NW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Rocky Point N-NW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Haleiwa N-NW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Oahu - Makaha COMBO 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades smooth am...mushy pm

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Oahu - Makapuu E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades smooth

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 2-feet 0 to Waist Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - East - Hana E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades fair to good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei N-NW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast N-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades smooth

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Sep 17, 2014 3:54 AM HST

Synopsis Weak surface high pressure north of the islands will maintain gentle trade winds across the state today, with localized afternoon sea breezes developing. The ridge will break down from Thursday into the weekend, allowing for widespread sea breezes along with afternoon clouds and showers. Dry and stable air aloft will keep most rainfall amounts light. A tropical wave passing south of the area may bring an increase in rainfall, especially across the Big Island, with gentle trade winds resuming across the state by the later half of the weekend and into early next week.

Discussion Shower activity was most concentrated across Oahu during the night, with most windward and a number of interior sites receiving measurable rainfall. The other islands have remained almost entirely dry. Currently, showers are most prevalent over the leeward coastal waters well west of Oahu, and the waters southeast of the Big Island. Surface analysis depicts low pressure centered far northeast of the state, with a dissipating front/trough trailing SW to east and south of the Big Island. A 1022 mb high is centered about 1000 miles northwest of Kauai and is building slowly eastward, providing gentle trade wind flow across the state. Aloft, a weak upper level low is centered near Kauai, with a large mid/upper level ridge sprawling northwest of our region from west of the dateline to near 160°W. Mimic-tpw satellite imagery shows a stripe of higher moisture along the dissipating surface trough extending across the southern tip of the Big Island and south of the smaller islands, with another area of higher moisture approaching the state from the north. The 12Z soundings depict a rather typical profile, with inversions based around 7000 feet, and near normal pwats between 1.3 and 1.5 inches.

Surface high pressure will build slowly eastward to the north of the state today and tonight, maintaining a gentle background trade wind flow. Trades will remain light enough to allow localized sea breezes to develop once again this afternoon. Expect a hybrid pattern similar to that observed on Tuesday, with showers and clouds focusing on windward slopes during the early morning and nighttime hours, and across some of the leeward and interior areas during the afternoon. The area of increased moisture moving SW across the western and central parts of the state today and tonight will probably allow for a bit more leeward shower activity this afternoon, and windward shower activity tonight, than has been observed during the past 24 hours. A drier airmass appears likely to persist across the Big Island, and would expect showers to be less prevalent there.

From Thursday into the weekend, another cold front is forecast to drop southward across the north central Pacific. This will push the subtropical ridge south and east, disrupting the pressure gradient across the state. Local trade wind flow should weaken further or disappear entirely during this time, allowing for a period of more widespread daytime sea breezes and nighttime land breezes. This pattern will bring mostly clear nights and mornings with spotty showers over interior areas during the afternoons and evenings. The light winds will allow volcanic haze to build up around the Big Island, but it does not appear as if there will be enough southerly component in the flow to carry the haze over the smaller islands.

Forecast uncertainty increases during the weekend and into next week, when the models bring a tropical wave and associated surge of deep moisture northwestward toward the state. The 00Z guidance has generally trended a bit south with the wave, with the deeper moisture affecting mainly just the Big Island or possibly remaining south of the state altogether Sunday into Monday. It also appears that the increased pressure gradient between lower pressure to the south, and a narrow high pressure ridge between the islands and a stalled frontal boundary to our north should induce some increase in easterly flow over the state during this time. Have nudged pops down a bit for the smaller islands, keeping the highest pops over the Big Island.

Uncertainty increases further for next Tuesday and beyond, when the GFS drops another cold front southward into the central Pacific, weakening and veering our local wind flow toward the southeast. The ECMWF has a completely different solution for this time period with a building high pressure ridge in the central Pacific, causing increasing trades over the state. Will have to await future model runs which will hopefully resolve these differences.

Marine Overnight observations from the Barbers Point buoy show the south swell continuing to slowly decline, with peak energy values gradually shifting into the shorter wave period bands. This swell will slowly fade away through Friday. Surf along south facing shores will remain somewhat elevated through today as another small south swell arrives, but is expected to remain below advisory levels. Otherwise, a small northwest swell arrived late yesterday, as indicated by Waimea bay buoy data. Another small northwest swell will arrive later today, but surf along north facing shores will remain well below advisory levels.

An 0806Z ascat pass found gentle to locally moderate trade winds across the Hawaiian coastal waters, with a small area of winds greater than 15 knots in the Alenuihaha channel. These will probably be the strongest winds seen in our waters through the next several days, with wind speeds expected to begin decreasing later today. Winds and seas are expected to remain below small craft advisory levels through at least early next week.

Watches/Warnings/Advisories None.

 

BIG SURF PICTURE 

9/13/14 Saturday

SPAC:

The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.

Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below.

Next: Last Sunday a powerful Low tracked ENE under NZL with near hurricane force 65kt winds and seas near 50- 60’! The storm broadened further off the coast as the highest winds and seas weakened. But not before setting up a 1200 miles fetch. When storm have such extreme winds they generate long periods as we’ve seen since Friday: long fat 25 seconds leveling off to 22 sec Saturday and 20 sec Sunday. The swell hts will go from 1’ to 4’ and even 12 hours of 5’ 20 seconds. There will be moments at select reefs of warning level hts of 15’ crest to trough or 8’ local. The North shore can get 10’ from such values as the long periods have extreme refraction and shoaling off the bottom. Note: 20 sec period swell can be felt 1000’ down! This shows us how vital periods are to wave measurement.

Last: No sources of swell over 2’ out through next weekend meaning 2 weeks from now. There are marginal fetches in the Taz Monday 15th and another tiny Low off NZL Friday the 19th. Neither source may get here.

Note: High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough and 15’ for NW swells. Why the large threshold difference is likely an extra safety precaution where populations are greatest.

NPAC

The weak Jet is long and up around 40-50 degrees latitude. There’s some troughs and dips and by next weekend the Jet has a bit more speed and energy going from Japan to the Gulf. We are still in a state of transition.

Currently: the surf is barely 2’ remnants from our 1st real swell of the season that hit near 8’ Tuesday.

Recent: this nice WNW filled late Monday to 6’ and ramped Tuesday from a more NW angle. Source: Storminess Friday the 5th just east of the 180 dateline 1200 miles NW of us. By Saturday she had 30’ seas on the dateline and spun in place (occluded) as she broadened and weakened into Sunday…The result was swell of 5’ 14 seconds.

Next: Former tropical storm Fengshen will bump us up Sunday from the 15 sec WNW at 2-3’ midday and veer NW peaking at 4’ Monday into Tuesday with shorter 12 seconds. The system formed off Taiwan last Sunday the 7th and moved NNE as it broadened and weakend off Japan becoming a cold core Low off the tropics warm core. It then tracked East reaching the dateline Thursday the 11th as it merged and faded with a broad area of Low pressure centered in the Eastern Aleutians.

Last: A tiny weak low tracks east from the dateline this Wednesday and will only pull off some 2’ NW surf Tuesday the 23rd.

Windward side:

Recently and until Friday we’ve see tiny 1’ surf from the light local trades and seabreeze patterns; rare to see it this small this long. Then it’ll kick up from some T Storm action below.

Tropics: T Storm Odile has come into view today Sat. with a NW track and clipping Cabo etc Monday-Tuesday. By Thursday it’s nearly gone but still may shoot out some longer period 3’ East swell around Friday-Saturday the 19-20th.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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