Tuesday, September 02, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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4/20-4/26. On 5/18 off 5/30. off 8/6
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Tropical Storm Marie Kicks Up Surf in California Meteorologists with the National Weather Service said the hurricane, now reduced to a tropical storm, continued swirling more than 800 miles southwest of Los Angeles over the eastern Pacific Ocean late Thursday, but was weakening. And although waves continued to soar as high as 25 feet at the Wedge in Newport Beach, most were reported to be half the size they were the day before. Read the Full Story
Bethany Hamilton to make an appearance at the surf expo Fans of Bethany Hamilton, a pro surfer and inspirational icon to millions throughout the world, will get the opportunity to catch a sneak peek of her upcoming surf film and interact with her during the Q&A portion of her Surf Expo seminar. The seminar will be held Sept. 5 from 11:30 am to 12:30 pm at the Surf Expo Tradeshow located at Orange County Convention Center South Hall, 9899 International Dr., Orlando, FL. Read the Full Story
North Shore underground legend Stormin Normin passes away Norm Marsh died from prostate cancer earlier this week. 'Stormin Normin' was a fixture on the North Shore since the mid 70s' and could always be seen ripping Laniakea in his speedos. A true NS gem, Norm was a commited surfer, always in top shape and loved the big waves. Thus, the name 'Stormin Normin' cause he charged hard. He was the last person one would expect to lose his life to cancer. It was always assumed 'Stormin Normin' would be hitting the surf into old age. A lesson for us all about the fragile, precious time we have on planet earth. RIP Norm and thank you for the inspiration. Next wave is for you. Aloha, gq. Read the Full Story
#TOURNOTES: JOHN JOHN, KELLY, AND THE HEAT Classic sorta impromptu talk story sesh with one young and one 'older' living legend....about the heat of a lifetime. Read the Full Story
LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Tons of SSW swell in the forecast starting Thursday. East side ramps up big time Thursday-Saturday. BIG SURF PICTURE  8/26/14 SPAC: The Jet down under has been dominant with equatorial bound (ENE) flows leading to plenty surf, but the last few days its been zonal (west to east) with 2 branches staying the same most this week. By Thursday/Friday there’s another ENE tilt which will enhance a big storm but it'll be sending much of the energy off to our east since the equatorbound flow is far off NZL to under French Polynesia. Read the Full Story
'Endless Summer' movie inspires Hawaii surfing-centered resort. The Honolulu investors who are redeveloping the iconic Coco Palms Resort on Kauai plan to develop a 400-unit resort in West Oahu centered around a four-acre surfing wave pool that will be themed after the iconic surfing movie " The Endless Summer," the Greene Waters Group of Bridge Real Estate told PBN on Sunday. Principals Chad Waters and Tyler Greene have partnered with Bruce Brown Films and licensed the rights to the 1960s popular surfing movie to launch Surf City Hui LLC, the ownership entity for the concept resort that will be called The Endless Summer Resort.... Read the Full Story
Medina beats Slater at Teahupo'o in what many claim to be the best ASP contest ever. Amazing final day of Billabong Pro Tahiti drops jaws Surf News Network, 25 August, 2014: Teahupo'o, Tahiti - The world’s best surfers put everything on the line as they battled the world’s most dangerous wave for an historic Finals day at the Billabong Pro Tahiti, stop no. 7 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT). The Final Day's 12-man field took on perilous conditions and monster 12-to-15 foot barreling waves, the biggest of the season, in pursuit of victory. It was Gabriel Medina (BRA) who came out on top to claim the coveted title of Billabong Pro Tahiti Champion after an unbelievable day of competition and what is being dubbed the best WCT contest in history.... Read the Full Story
This will be the hottest surfing debate of the year... SafeSurfHawaii is a group of surfers, bodyboarders and bodysurfers who believe that the time has come for the DLNR to adopt rules that will ensure that Hawaii's surf zones are safe and enjoyable for all waveriders. The increasing presence of Stand Up Paddleboard ("SUP") users in Hawaii's surfzones has created both safety and fair access problems for surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers. The time has come for the DLNR to adopt rules regulating the use of SUPs in surf zones (or at least to try a pilot project in a limited area offshore from Ala Moana Beachpark ... i.e. the Safe Surfzones Pilot Project)... Read the Full Story
Kai Sallas claims ASP 1-Star LQS event at Dukes OceanFest Surf News Network, 22 August, The gods sent the surf for the Duke's OceanFest on Thursday for the finals of the Association of Surfing Professionals one star long boarding contest. A stand out in the competition was Maui Zane who is originally from Maui but lives and works in Waikiki.... Read the Full Story
Gabriel Medina beats Kelly Slater to win his 3rd event. Sunday's post: Perfect 10s spike Billabong Pro Tahiti Round 3 photo: John John Florence © ASP / Will H-S Being called the best contest in ASP History. Perfection. Full story coming. Yesterday. Surf News Network, 24 August, Teahupo'o - The world’s best surfers returned to the world’s most dangerous wave for the recommencement of stop no. 7 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT), the Billabong Pro Tahiti, this morning and the action reached a fever pitch as the original 36-person field was whittled down to the final 12... Read the Full Story
Billabong Pro Tahiti is 4-5' and rising. Round 3-4. Oceanic 250. Heat 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) loses to an in rythm Tiago Pires (PRT) Perennial World Title bridesmaid Taj Burrow, World No. 4, faced off against Tiago Pires, World No. 28 and the 2014 WCT wildcard. After a restart, Pires took the first wave at the horn, earning a solid 7.50 and putting Burrow on the defense. Burrow answered back with a solid drop, but it earned him a 6.17, keeping him in a defensive role. Throughout the heat Pires continued to grab wave after wave, scoring an 8.00 on one ride, and topping it with a 9.00. The scores put him well ahead of his veteran opponent, with a 17.00 to Burrow's combined 6.54 at the halfway mark. A 25th puts Taj at a bad spot for a world title this year. Read the Full Story
Duke's OceanFest rolls with lifeguards & longboards & much more! photo & story from SNN Team mate Betty Depolito Aloha Surf Lifesaving Team Wins Lifeguard Challenge from Wednesday before the SSW hit.
20 August- Thursday at the 13th Annual Duke's OceanFest the ASP Pro long boarders hit the water at Queens Surf Break for the one star Association of Surfing Professionals event. Surf was a tricky 1-2 feet with inconsistent sets durning the 20 minute round one heats. The round shuffled the competitors for their quarter final bouts, August 21st...
Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of Used Surfboards Hawaii Labor Day Sale.

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Monday Sept 1st 640am update...Happy Labor Day!

Another Gorgeous dawn and Super Light trades early this morning with a chance of  sea breeze mix late morning-afternoon. Another hot one so pack the Bullfrog. High tide 930am 1.7 drops out all day to a .7 at 430pm. Lingering south keeps us going.

NORTH: Holding tiny at 0-1' at only isolated spots like Laniakea picking up on the remnant 12 second ENE Marie; it's clear and lite offshore ENE trades; best for diving, paddling, swimming etc. See SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is holding on the S-SSW at 1-2' and still a few higher sets at other west reefs & glassy. Watch for it to mush out with onshores late morn. Town: Holding at mostly a clean lite offshore at mostly 2-3' S-SSW and plus' here and there with 3.3' 13 sec buoy swells at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos (check our Bowls-Courts CAM); light trade wind texture may compete with seabreezes pending land heating.  Diamond Head: Holding on the S-SSW at 2-3' maybe a plus' with good light sideoffshore ENE trades (see SNN Cam). Sandy's: Holding on the South and  ENE wrap at a nice clean 2-3' and plenty barrels and breaking all over with dumping shorebreak.  East: Makapu'u:  Holding the ENE swell the relatively clean 1-3'. Some waves on the outside but most on the left to the middle mostly and a bit smaller at Keiki's...5-10 mph ENE trades.

Events, News etc.

Long time NS fixture and committed surfer, Stormin' Normin passed away this past week from cancer. Our Thoughts and Prayers go out to his Family and Friends.

Quote of the week:   "It was incredible. I've never seen anything like it and today will go down as one of the best days of surfing in my career, no question". Kelly Slater on the Billabong Pro Tahiti 8/25/14

Sandy's on Friday. 5' explosions too by Chambers. 

SNN BIG Picture updated Monday 8/26 HERE

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Mon '09/01'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
smooth, clear
Tue '09/02'
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Wed '09/03'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
Thu '09/04'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
Fri '09/05'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
Haleiwa
Mon '09/01'
Time
Ht.
L 11:50 PM 0.2 ft.
H 8:32 AM 1.4 ft.
L 2:39 PM 0.6 ft.
H 7:42 PM 0.7 ft.
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:46 PM
Tue '09/02'
Time
Ht.
L 12:52 AM 0.2 ft.
H 9:44 AM 1.5 ft.
L 4:07 PM 0.5 ft.
H 9:21 PM 0.7 ft.
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:45 PM
Wed '09/03'
Time
Ht.
L 2:05 AM 0.2 ft.
H 10:48 AM 1.6 ft.
L 5:02 PM 0.4 ft.
H 10:47 PM 0.7 ft.
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:44 PM
Thu '09/04'
Time
Ht.
L 3:17 AM 0.1 ft.
H 11:43 AM 1.7 ft.
L 5:44 PM 0.2 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:16 AM
Sunset: 6:44 PM
Fri '09/05'
Time
Ht.
H 11:52 PM 0.8 ft.
L 4:22 AM 0 ft.
H 12:32 PM 1.8 ft.
L 6:21 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:16 AM
Sunset: 6:43 PM

West
Holding - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
smooth, clear
Rising Later - S-SW
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Rising - S
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+

South
Holding - S
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
smooth, clear
Rising Later - S-SW
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
2' 22 sec forerunners
Rising - S
HAW: 3-5
FACE: 5-9
3' 20 sec
Dropping - S
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
3' 16 sec
Dropping - S
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
3' 14 sec
Honolulu Harbor
Mon '09/01'
Time
Ht.
L 1:55 AM 0.2 ft.
H 9:34 AM 1.7 ft.
L 4:44 PM 0.7 ft.
H 8:44 PM 0.9 ft.
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:46 PM
Tue '09/02'
Time
Ht.
L 2:57 AM 0.2 ft.
H 10:46 AM 1.9 ft.
L 6:12 PM 0.6 ft.
H 10:23 PM 0.8 ft.
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:45 PM
Wed '09/03'
Time
Ht.
L 4:10 AM 0.2 ft.
H 11:50 AM 2 ft.
L 7:07 PM 0.4 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:44 PM
Thu '09/04'
Time
Ht.
H 11:49 PM 0.9 ft.
L 5:22 AM 0.1 ft.
H 12:45 PM 2.2 ft.
L 7:49 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:16 AM
Sunset: 6:44 PM
Fri '09/05'
Time
Ht.
H 12:54 AM 1 ft.
L 6:27 AM 0.1 ft.
H 1:34 PM 2.3 ft.
L 8:26 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:16 AM
Sunset: 6:43 PM

East
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
fairly smooth, clear
Dropping - E
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Holding - E
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3

Winds
Hawaii
Mon '09/01'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
seabreeze mix late morning
Tue '09/02'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15
11am seabreeze mix
Wed '09/03'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20
Thu '09/04'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20
Fri '09/05'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20

Current Swells

Mon '09/01'
Primary : S-SW / Holding , 2-3+
Secondary : S-SW / Dropping , 1-3'
Third : E-NE / Dropping , 1-2.5'

Marine Warnings

Mon '09/01'
Hawaii : None...extreme UV so bring da BullFrog!

Sailing Report

Mon '09/01'
Hawaii : Light trades with later moorning to afternoon sea breezes near the islands

Diving Report

Mon '09/01'
Hawaii : Good for north, west and east side and good for deeper dives along the south coast due to a lingering ssw swell.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset E-NE Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Pipeline E-NE Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Rocky Point E-NE Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Haleiwa COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Makaha S-SW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth am...mushy pm

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades fair to good

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades good

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 1- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Knee to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 1- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Knee to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Oahu - Makapuu E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Light Trades smooth

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades smooth

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades good

Maui - East - Hana E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO Flat- to 2-feet 0 to Waist Light Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Sep 01, 2014 4:00 AM HST

Synopsis
A light east-southeast flow is expected to continue today with high pressure remains far northeast , and a surface trough near the islands. Heading towards midweek, light to moderate trades are expected to build in. The light winds will allow afternoon sea breezes to bring localized cloud buildups and a few showers over leeward and interior areas. As the week progresses and the trades strengthen, expect the limited clouds and showers to be focused over the windward slopes. Trade wind showers may increase by Friday as low level moisture rides in on the trades.

Discussion
The overnight sounding at Hilo showed a low level inversion within 400 ft of the surface. This is similar to an inversion observed yesterday morning, but this morning's is not quite as strong as yesterday's. The strong low level inversion yesterday morning allowed smoke and odors associated with the relatively new lava flow in the Puna district to become trapped near the surface until mid morning when the heat of the day helped to dissipate the inversion. With the morning sounding showing the inversion again, even though not quite as strong, it's very likely similar events will be observed this morning, thus the mention of smoke in the grids. The weaker inversion today may mean it will break up a little sooner than yesterday.

No major changes to the forecast for this morning. The clouds over the Big Island last evening began to break up over the northwest half of the island shortly after midnight, leaving clouds and some showers over the slopes from Hilo to Cape Kumukahi to South Point. This batch of clouds is associated with a weak surface trough draped across the islands of Maui county and the Big Island. These clouds are moving to the west northwest, with the bulk of the clouds expected to pass south of the smaller islands today. The presence of this trough is disrupting the trade wind flow generated by the high pressure system far northeast of the islands.

The models are in good agreement with the high lingering to the far northeast of the islands through much of the week. The surface trough near the islands should start to dissipate and move away from the islands heading into mid week, which will allow the trades to make a return appearance. However, a low northeast of the islands, and a front passing northwest of the islands will help prevent more than light to moderate trades to build back in. As the winds increase, look for clouds and showers to become focused more over the windward slopes. The GFS and ECMWF both show limited low level moisture during the middle of the week, so expect shower activity to be on the light side.

Both models do show additional low level moisture being carried in on the trades at the end of the week. This increased moisture appears to be loosely associated with the remnant of Marie that is passing far northeast of the islands. As such, look for more showers at the end of the week than at midweek.

Marine
The near shore buoys continued to show steady readings overnight. The reinforcement to the current south swell started to make an appearance on the 51003 buoy overnight with periodic 15 second energy being picked up. Surf along the south facing shores is expected to remain elevated, but below advisory levels into Tuesday.

A very long period south swell, 20-25 seconds, is due to arrive Tuesday, and build through Wednesday. This swell will likely produce advisory level surf into Thursday.

The long period swell from the east should continue to trend down today. Winds and seas will remain below small craft advisory thresholds for at least the next several days.

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
None.

 

BIG SURF PICTURE 8/26/14

SPAC:

The Jet down under has been dominant with equatorial bound (ENE) flows leading to plenty surf, but the last few days its been zonal (west to east) with 2 branches staying the same most this week. By Thursday/Friday there’s another ENE tilt which will enhance a big storm but it'll be sending much of the energy off to our east since the equatorbound flow is far off NZL to under French Polynesia.

Recent: We’ve had nonstop surf for about 2 weeks; 2 Lows tracked SE of NZL Thursday 8/7 and these sources created surf the 1st weekend for the Dukes Oceanfest! Then a powerful Low a few days after with 55kts saw into our window SE of NZL hugging the East coast with a captured fetch. We got 18 sec forerunners Wed the 20th reaching 3’ 15 sec swells or 2-4+ SSW surf Thursday midday and the final Dukes weekend…one of the best weeks for the OceanFest in over 5 years.

Currently, we saw some 4’ sets from the SSW this past F-M from 2 sources: a gale 40kt storm east of NZL mid August. Her fetch head got to 3500 miles away which allowed for head high sets. Then a stronger system further SE of NZL with 47kts added more size over the weekend and into Monday. Some spots peaked 5’ over the weekend but these were special cases/spots. Things level off to head high Tuesday.

Next: Another compact Low SE of NZL tracked east again last Monday-Tuesday and will keep us at 3’ solid before a SSW swell arrives Wednesday.

Next: The Jet set up a long wave trough from Wednesday the 20th. We also saw a big High in the Taz which created solid winds in between the High spinning counter clockwise next to the Low spinning clockwise (opposite spins from the NPAC). This allowed a huge fetch area east of NZL last Thursday-Saturday. The head of the fetch got to within 3000 miles which is about 1000 miles closer than the usual. This means less ocean swell decay over distance and another round of advsry surf filling late Wednesday peaking Thursday into Saturday and even Sunday…High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough which is what typical surfers look for. The NS needs 15’ or twice the size which most surfers don’t look for. Why the large difference is likely extra safety precautions where populations are greatest.

Next: : Models backed down big time on their output a week ago for a new event early Sept. A broad gale Low far east of NZL reached near Tahiti last weekend. Now, it’s going to be 1-3’ South Sunday-Tuesday.

Last couple: Low confidence of models showing a big broad storm up off the Ross Ice Shelf Wed the 27th which fades fast and followed up fast by a much bigger Low Thursday. The issue is the ENE track but side band swell should hit 3 maybe 4’ with long periods Thursday sept 4-6th. Let’s take a better look this weekend.

NPAC

The weak Jet up North is continuing it’s summer position with poor potential for swell enhancement, and tho’ she’s elongated the winds are too light for anything. Most the deeper troughing occurs under the gulf toward the end of the 7 day forecast.

Recent: It’s been quite and average after the long run of Typhoon West swells and Hurricane N swells making Aug the best in memory. Reliable sources like Pat Kelly with over 40 years up there plus, a former NS Capt and SNN eye’s on the country claimed it.

Next: East wrap from hurricane Maria will send long 2-3’ 14-16 second periods producing surf up 4’ around Kahuku and less to select spots toward Haleiwa starting Thursday and into the weekend.

Next: nothing is on the models out over 10 days.

Windward side:

Recently, small 2’ East swell have been dominant but that’s increasing today from 2 Tropical systems:  Lowell and Karina off Baja and weakening. Then it goes up big time with a rare push of 14- 17 second East surf from Cat 5 Hurricane Maria tracking ENE off of Baja (see below). Surf on the windward spots will reach as high as 7’ local scale. We also have two 1030mb High up beyond 40 north or 1200-1500 miles away keeping us in the typical trade wind pattern. So after this upcoming run its back to normal by next Wednesday.

Tropics: Cat 5 Hurricane Maria built this past weekend SSW of Baja and is expected to move NW and weaken to a Tropical Storm before Friday staying over 1200 miles to our NE. She built 40’ seas and will send off some of that High surf advsry East swell Thursday-Saturday. The main feature will be the long periods which refract and shoal off the ocean floor much more than the typical 8-10 sec windswell we usually ride. Watch for spots to break with more power and current.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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