Surf Summary & News Breaks
SNN CHIEF SURFING OFFICER: GARY KEWLEY
Your Exclusive 6:45am OBZ: and the surf scene for Saturday 5/19/12
Light/Moderate trades...few windward showers
Country: Holding on N-NE swell at 0-1' only at focal reefs. Small NW bump this afternoon at 2'. WEST: Holding on SSW at 0-1' with a glassy dawn and offshores later. TOWN: Holding & dropping later on SSW at mostly 1-2' (waist) with fair side-offshore winds. Diamond Head: Down a little at 1-2' on South but it's alittle hacked up by 5-15 trades and mixed up angles but there's underlying 14 sec swell out there. SANDYS: Holding at 1-2 occ 3' on sets on mix of South and Wind swell with sideshore trade winds and decent. EAST: MAKAPU'U: Holding this morning on Trade + NE swell at 1-2' and semi-bumpy.
Surf News etc:
Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE Mahalo nui loa again for supporting the Kamehameha Surf Team Surf Sample Sale fundraising for our team trip NSSA Nationals at Salt Creek- Dana Point June 11-21 . Go HERE
The T&C Surf Grom Fest at Queens all weekend long. Go HERE
John John Florence beats Joel Parkinson to win the the Billabong Rio Pro. Go HERE
Get your entries in for the Local Motion Surf Into Summer HERE
Get the actual current Winds Statewide in one glance ...just go HERE ( link is the 4th drop down under weather)
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Catch the why, when and where of your waves and weather once a week...
BIG SURF PICTURE Monday 5/14/12
NPAC: The Jet dipped south toward us for a day then it begins to go zonal off to our east into the Gulf and is breaking up to our east. We see some small 2' N from this scenario later Monday and then 3' NNE later Tuesday. Some troughing off Japan 'may' lead to a tiny 2' WNW Saturday.
Currently.....seeing the stirring of near 2' from the N as the day goes on. Only focus spots.
Source: A gale fetch between a High off Calif and a tiny Low to our NNE this past wkend could lead to a few chest maybe head high NNE late Tuesday into Wednesday.
Next: we'll keep an eye on a weak and distant gale Friday 5/11 off Japan moving our way; but it has only a slight chance of producing a 2' WNW-NW Saturday.
Iffy tiny NNW on sunday and after this nothing.
SPAC: The Northern Jet off NZL is zonal over the next week with no significant surf sources over the coming week.
We did have a sideband swell on Mothers Day up to near 4' top spots as the legend continues. Thnks Mom.
Source: A storm force 45-55kt Low moving ENE over a week ago was further east and tracking more zonal than the last couple swell producers; still the forenners were 21 sec thanks to the high near hurricane force winds and we had a south of 2-3+' filling on Sat and peaking Sunday as it veered more SSE.
Next: some fetch far SE off NZL (but closer than the preceding storm) last Wednesday-Thursday 5/9-10 should lead to 3' sets later Wednesday peaking Thursday 5/17 with 15 sec. The storm was moving west to east mostly but had more pointing our way than the last one.
Next: some fetch to our south last Friday-Sat. could keep back ground 2' South this weekend.
Next: A Taz storm points fetch up Monday-Tuesday which should bring in tiny 2' SW swells around Tuesday 5/22. Fiji will enjoy solid swell.
Last: Thursday 5/17 models show a gale with captured fetch (both the low and its winds pointing up our way) way right off NZL east coast...these narrower fetches lose more energy with the 4000 miles so lets claim 1-2 maybe 3' filling Thursday 5/24.
East Shores: Same ole....the usual flucuations of Spring Trade hts of 2' and up to 3' from Trades and occas NE pulses.
FETCH: often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.
More generic marine definitions click this link http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php
Winds Statewide in a glance ...just go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)
SATURDAY MAY 19TH
Gentle trades are expected this weekend, with stronger trades returning at the start of the new work week. Showers riding in with the trades will favor the windward and mountains areas, while a stable air mass will keep rainfall amounts light with these showers.DISCUSSION......With the surface high centered far away from the islands, the pressure gradient over the area eased up resulting in gentler trades. This condition will last through to Monday of next week when the trades will rebound to moderate to locally strong. The trades will continue at this strength into the second half of next week. This stronger trades are the result of the surface high getting reestablished closer to the islands, and staying north of the area through the second half of the new week.
The air mass over the islands through at least Wednesday of next week, is expected to be stable with the depth of the marine layer no higher than 10000 feet. Both the ECMWF and the GFS models, introduce an upper level disturbance over the islands at mid week. Although they differ in the placement and timing, they agreed the disturbance does not pose a threat to the islands since the instability does not reach down into the lower levels.
The large area of low clouds, which also contain a few showers, is affecting primarily Maui Molokai and the Big Island. The clouds tried to spread to Oahu but they dissipated upon reaching the island, which is an indication of subsidence.
Most of the clouds upwind of the Big Island are aimed at the Big Island, and will be passing through the Alenuihaha channel and rounding South Point. Although these clouds are mostly stable and would tend to dissipate once the Sun rises above the horizon, the overwhelming mass will keep skies mostly cloudy along the big island's windward side into the afternoon hours.




- W-NW
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- NW SSW
E-NE
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