Tuesday, September 16, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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Next stop on the Stand Up World Tour starts tomorrow in Huntington Beach   The 2014 Huntington Beach Pro Grand Slam will host both Stand Up World Tour Surfing and Stand Up World Series Racing events from the 15th – 21st September in Surf City USA. As the most comprehensive event featuring a star studded line up of the world’s very best athletes, the $45,000 Huntington Beach Pro will be a true showcase of the leading edge of the sport, while celebrating Amateur and youth participation with a large Trials event and Open Racing division, not to mention the Na Kama Kai Youth Challenge (U16) taking place on the final Sunday of the event. Read the Full Story
Don't miss this special engagement: EDDIE WEN’ GO The Story of the Upside Down Canoe! Eddie Would Go! Sept 19-20th and Coinciding with Hōkūleʻa’s round-the-world voyage, this imaginative production uses hula, chant, masks and puppetry to tell of Eddie Aikau’s act of sacrifice through the eyes of sea creatures who watched from underneath the upside-down canoe. Slack key guitar wunderkind Danny Carvalho, has created an original sound scape and will perform it live...Dont miss this special tribute to our Hawaiian Legend: Eddie Aikau. Read the Full Story
Goodbye ASP - Hello World Surf League   The Association of Surfing Professionals is no longer. Well, the name is no longer, at least. Beginning in 2015, the new moniker of the association of surfing professionals is the World Surf League, or WSL. In a letter to the surfing community, ASP/WSL CEO Paul Speaker broke the news. “We understand that for many of you reading this, the letters “ASP” have significant meaning and that this news might be unsettling,” he wrote. “We hope you will give us the benefit of the doubt and that, over time, you will come to see this change as positive for the sport we all love. At the end of the day, professional surfing’s DNA remains intact: we’re about the world’s best surfers in the world’s best waves. That will never change.” Read the Full Story
LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Big SSW fills Saturday peaks Sunday and last into Tuesday. WNW fill to 3' sunday and 4' by Monday BIG SURF PICTURE  9/13/14 Saturday SPAC: The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.   Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below... Read the Full Story
Team Jamie's win the Qiantang Shoot Out
Finals Go off on the Largest Wave in the Event’s History Team Honolulu of Jamie O’Brien and Jamie Sterling took home the $10,000.00 team first prize in the largest “river bore” wave in the Red Bull Qiantang Surfing Shoot Out history with wave sections reaching ten feet.
Read the Full Story
Upsets at Hurley & Swatch Pro this week! Photo: Costa Rican hero Carlos Munoz © ASP/Rowland. Surf News Network, 11 September, 2014 - Wildcards delivered major upsets in the Hurley Pro at Trestles today as Tanner Gudauskas (USA) and Carlos Munoz (CRI) successively defeated top seeds Kelly Slater (USA) and Gabriel Medina (BRA) in non-elimination Round 1. The Swatch Women’s Pro Trestles was equally electric with Lakey Peterson (USA) eliminating reigning two-time ASP Women’s World Champion Carissa Moore (HAW), who will now relinquish her world ratings lead. The women’s Quarterfinalists have been decided after the completion of Round 4.... Read the Full Story
Catching up with Nathan Florence We’re going to get to know the Florence family real well over the next five years, this cute and deadly band of Hawaiian surf bums comprising three brothers (John, 20, Nathan, 19, Ivan 17) and a skating-surfing super mom, Alex. You know all about John, yeah? Raised on the sand, towed into his first Pipe bombs by Herbie Fletch (pops of Christian and Nathan and grand-daddy to Greyson) when he was seven, currently the owner of the finest contract in surfing, Kelly Slater aside. Read the Full Story
Hurley Pro action LIVE at Lowers Thursday John John Florence Man Hack Warm Up © ASP/Rowland. New SSW swell filling in throughout the day. It's currently about 3-4' and lined up. Chance of onshores. Surf News Network, 11 September, 2014: The Hurley Pro at Trestles, stop no. 8 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour, has been called ON for Round 1 in clean 3-to-5 foot waves. Competition will begin at 8:00 a.m. local time (PDT) with men's Round 1. Round 4 of the Swatch Women's Pro Trestles is on standby.... Read the Full Story
Some ground breaking action as Swatch Women's Pro kicks off Stephanie Gilmore © ASP/Rowlan. Surf News Network, 9 September, 2014: Australian Stephanie Gilmore proved today that the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP Women’s World Title race is far from over with a blazing performance in the first ever women’s WCT event at Lower Trestles. The Swatch Women’s Pro Trestles, stop no. 7 of 10 for the 2014 season, got underway in exceptional 3 to 5 foot waves and ran through Rounds 1, 2 and 3.... Read the Full Story
Kellogg's IBA Hawaii Pro Tour Sandy Beach Results The third event of the Kellogg's IBA Hawaii Pro Tour went off over the shallow sharp reef of half point in both lefts and rights. Over $10,000 in cash and prizes was handed out thanks to the support of Kellogg's, Pepsi, Science Bodyboards, T&C Surf and Scott Hawaii. Jeff Hubbard in the last minute of the final won the Pro Mens division ahead of Guilherme Tamega from Brazil in a high performance battle to the end. The acrobatic crazy maneuvers were a testament to the epic sport of bodyboarding and the fun they have picking the ramps to pull off the crazy stunts they do. "We were able to do big airs", said an excited Hubbard. ".... Read the Full Story
A special engagement at Hawaii's only media lounge, Surf, the Bar. Tonight! Dr. Isaiah Walker is currently Associate Professor and Chair of the Department of History at Brigham Young University-Hawaiʻi campus. Isaiah is also the author of the award winning history book, Waves of Resistance: Surfing and History in 20th Century Hawaiʻi. As a lead...ing expert on surfing and Hawaiian history, Dr. Walker consulted for and appeared in the recent ESPN 30 for 30 documentary Hawaiian: the Legend of Eddie Aikau..... Read the Full Story
Carissa Moore featured in the latest RedBull:21 days   The 2014 Hurley Pro at Lower Trestles is an immensely significant event for both Kolohe Andino, Carissa Moore and surf fans alike. For Kolohe, it’s an opportunity to keep his career-best streak alive and possibly even score his first ever WCT victory – at his home break nonetheless. For Carissa, it’s a chance to make ground in the budding sizzler of a women’s world title race. And for surf fans, it’s the most high-performance surf contest of the year. In 21Days, we get intimate access to Kolohe and Carissa’s camps as they prepare for the big day. Cue the excitement! Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of Leahi Health Beverages

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Monday Sept 15th 630am Update

Same story. Perfect morning. Another hot and sunny one. Calm to light Trades are with us now but watch for lite convective onshore seabreezes midday with cloud build up into the afternoon. This pattern is set into Wednesday. 1.8' High tide at 10am dropping out to a 0.5' Low tide at 630pm.

Still above High Surf advsry for all southern exposures. Buoys are 4.5' 17 seconds. Ultra inconsistent. Some reefs did see some 8' sets Sunday at top spots. Most spots 5'.

NORTH: Down and holding on the 13  second WNW. It's 2-3' now at Sunset and Rocky Pts and at Chuns; Pipe only 1-3' but watch for higher sets later into Monday; everywhere's so smooth & lite offshore for now with lite offshores then seabreezes near midday;  See SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is up and holding on the SSW and WNW; currently at 2-4' but long lulls and & smooth-glassy; expect it to  be mushed out with isolated seabreezes late morning to afternoon. Town:  Up and holding on the long period SSW swell at 3-5' but loooong waits. We expect isolated 6+ sets for top spots top sets esp with buoy pumping.  Waters perfect lite offshores at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos and again seabreeze later around 11am (check our Bowls-Courts CAM). Diamond Head: Up and holding on the  SSW at 3-5+' with superb glass to offshores but likely onshores 11am ish then to the evening glass off. (see SNN Cam). Sandy's: Up and holding on the SSW at a nice clean 3-4 occ 5';  all over, plus generals and heavy shorepound.  East: Makapu'u:  Holding the small below normal ENE and S wrap 0-1.5' on the shore and semi smooth lite onshores. Great diving all windward.

Events, News etc.

Dont miss 'Eddie Wen Go' The story of the upsidedown canoe. (Eddie Aikau) at Hawaii Theater this Friday nite! Eddie Would Go....so....GO HERE

Likely to go and finish Tuesday-Thursday on the same building SSW that we have. The 8th stop on the  ASP World Tour: The Hurley Pro at Trestles this Tuesday Sept 9-20th. GO LIVE

Quote of the week "Nothing I do out there is really conscious...it just kinda happens and I go with it" John John at Trestles.

SNN BIG Picture updated Friday 9/6 Go Here

Local Swell Tracker updated Go Here

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

Sandys looks pretty but dont be deceived; this isnt a big set. Heavy power from Sunday. Be careful. Someone lost their life yesterday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Mon '09/15'
Holding - NW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
clear, clean
Tue '09/16'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Wed '09/17'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Thu '09/18'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Fri '09/19'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Haleiwa
Mon '09/15'
Time
Ht.
L 12:02 AM 0.3 ft.
H 8:52 AM 1.5 ft.
L 3:29 PM 0.4 ft.
H 9:03 PM 0.6 ft.
Sunrise: 6:18 AM
Sunset: 6:33 PM
Tue '09/16'
Time
Ht.
L 1:14 AM 0.3 ft.
H 10:02 AM 1.5 ft.
L 4:33 PM 0.4 ft.
H 10:35 PM 0.7 ft.
Sunrise: 6:18 AM
Sunset: 6:32 PM
Wed '09/17'
Time
Ht.
L 2:34 AM 0.4 ft.
H 11:01 AM 1.5 ft.
L 5:15 PM 0.3 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:31 PM
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 11:35 PM 0.8 ft.
L 3:43 AM 0.3 ft.
H 11:49 AM 1.5 ft.
L 5:46 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 12:18 AM 0.9 ft.
L 4:38 AM 0.3 ft.
H 12:29 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:11 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM

West
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
clear, clean
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
Above advsy level
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3

South
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 3-5+
FACE: 5-8+
clear, clean
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 3-5
FACE: 5-9
3' 15 sec
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
3' 14 sec
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
2.5' 13 sec
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Honolulu Harbor
Mon '09/15'
Time
Ht.
L 2:07 AM 0.4 ft.
H 9:54 AM 1.8 ft.
L 5:34 PM 0.6 ft.
H 10:05 PM 0.8 ft.
Sunrise: 6:18 AM
Sunset: 6:33 PM
Tue '09/16'
Time
Ht.
L 3:19 AM 0.4 ft.
H 11:04 AM 1.8 ft.
L 6:38 PM 0.5 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:18 AM
Sunset: 6:32 PM
Wed '09/17'
Time
Ht.
H 11:37 PM 0.9 ft.
L 4:39 AM 0.5 ft.
H 12:03 PM 1.8 ft.
L 7:20 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:31 PM
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 12:37 AM 1 ft.
L 5:48 AM 0.4 ft.
H 12:51 PM 1.9 ft.
L 7:51 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 1:20 AM 1.1 ft.
L 6:43 AM 0.4 ft.
H 1:31 PM 1.9 ft.
L 8:16 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
cloudy, clean
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Rising Later - E-NE
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3

Winds
Hawaii
Mon '09/15'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
seabreezes coming ~11am
Tue '09/16'
Light/Var
Mph: 5-10
NE flow to onshore seabreeze
Wed '09/17'
Light/Var
Mph: 5-10
NE flow to onshore seabreeze
Thu '09/18'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15
increasing
Fri '09/19'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15
increasing

Current Swells

Mon '09/15'
Primary : S-SW / Rising , 3-6'
Secondary : W-NW / Rising , 2-3'
Third : E-NE / Holding , 0-1'

Marine Warnings

Mon '09/15'
Hawaii : High surf advsry for all South shores; Extreme UV ratings pack the BullFrog.

Sailing Report

Mon '09/15'
Hawaii : Fair early and improving with Light trades filling to good 5-15' with a mix of Leeward seabreezes late morning-and iffy NW winds in the afternoon...

Diving Report

Mon '09/15'
Hawaii : best is out East; fair for deep north dives; fair out for deep west, poor/fair for deep south....due to big South swell.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset W-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Pipeline W-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Rocky Point W-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Haleiwa W-NW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Oahu - Makaha COMBO 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades smooth am...mushy pm some Plus sets other reefs

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 3- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Shoulder to 2 ft. Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhd Light Trades good some Plus sets

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 3- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Shoulder to 2 ft. Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhd Light Trades good

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 3- to 5-feet, occ. 6 feet Shoulder to 4 ft.overhead occ.Double Overhd Light Trades good

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 3- to 5-feet, occ. 6 feet Shoulder to 4 ft.overhead occ.Double Overhd Light Trades good

Oahu - Makapuu E-NE Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades fair to good

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 2-feet 0 to Waist Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - East - Hana E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades fair to good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei W-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 3- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Shoulder to 2 ft. Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhd Light Trades good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades bumpy

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast COMBO Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades fair to good

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 3- to 5-feet Shoulder to 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades good

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 3- to 6-feet Shoulder to Double Overhead Light Trades good

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Issued: Sep 13, 2014 4:11 AM HST

Marine
Winds and seas are expected to remain below small craft advisory levels through the forecast period.

A very long period south swell will build through the day. Current readings from buoy 51004 suggest the higher period swell taking over as the dominant period, but heights have not jumped up yet. Surf along south facing shores is expected to reach advisory levels by this afternoon. The surf is expected to remain elevated through Sunday night, before slowly diminishing next week.

Elsewhere, a short-lived moderate northwest swell is expected to arrive late in the day Sunday, and gradually diminish through the first half of next week.

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
High surf advisory through 6 am HST Monday for south facing shores of all islands.

Synopsis
A diurnal land and sea breeze pattern will persist through the middle of next week bringing warm temperatures, afternoon clouds with showers, and clearing during the nights. Additional moisture will move in Sunday leading to more shower coverage, through rainfall amounts are not expected to be significant.

Discussion
Current satellite and radar shows clouds and showers have increased over the Big Island, and windward Maui and Molokai this morning due to an influx of moisture coming in from upstream. Soundings from this morning shows an elevated inversion of 12000 feet at Hilo and a relatively moist precipitable water value of 1.55 inches. Expecting this moisture to remain over the Big Island today and tonight before transversing westward. Isolated showers are also impacting the windward side of Oahu.

A surface ridge is present over the islands resulting very light pressure gradient and winds. The light wind flow regime will result in warm conditions today. Sea breezes from heating of the land will produce clouds and showers over the interior of the islands from late morning to early evening. The Big Island will see the greatest areal coverage of showers extending up to the higher elevations today. Land breezes will break up the clouds and showers tonight. This diurnal weather pattern will continue through at least the first half of next week.

The models bring varying amount of precipitable water into the islands starting Sunday through most of next week, though the trend is that it will increase. The atmosphere is expected to remain stable, so the additional low level moisture will likely mean an increase in the number of showers for all islands, with most shower activity occurring during the afternoon and early evening hours. It is possible we may see isolated moderate or heavier showers at times, but overall atmospheric dynamics does not support any elevated chance for this.

A large deep layered anticyclone will build slowly eastward from the date line to the north of the state, allowing light to moderate trade winds to gradually return during late next week.

BIG SURF PICTURE 

9/13/14 Saturday

SPAC:

The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.

Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below.

Next: Last Sunday a powerful Low tracked ENE under NZL with near hurricane force 65kt winds and seas near 50- 60’! The storm broadened further off the coast as the highest winds and seas weakened. But not before setting up a 1200 miles fetch. When storm have such extreme winds they generate long periods as we’ve seen since Friday: long fat 25 seconds leveling off to 22 sec Saturday and 20 sec Sunday. The swell hts will go from 1’ to 4’ and even 12 hours of 5’ 20 seconds. There will be moments at select reefs of warning level hts of 15’ crest to trough or 8’ local. The North shore can get 10’ from such values as the long periods have extreme refraction and shoaling off the bottom. Note: 20 sec period swell can be felt 1000’ down! This shows us how vital periods are to wave measurement.

Last: No sources of swell over 2’ out through next weekend meaning 2 weeks from now. There are marginal fetches in the Taz Monday 15th and another tiny Low off NZL Friday the 19th. Neither source may get here.

Note: High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough and 15’ for NW swells. Why the large threshold difference is likely an extra safety precaution where populations are greatest.

NPAC

The weak Jet is long and up around 40-50 degrees latitude. There’s some troughs and dips and by next weekend the Jet has a bit more speed and energy going from Japan to the Gulf. We are still in a state of transition.

Currently: the surf is barely 2’ remnants from our 1st real swell of the season that hit near 8’ Tuesday.

Recent: this nice WNW filled late Monday to 6’ and ramped Tuesday from a more NW angle. Source: Storminess Friday the 5th just east of the 180 dateline 1200 miles NW of us. By Saturday she had 30’ seas on the dateline and spun in place (occluded) as she broadened and weakened into Sunday…The result was swell of 5’ 14 seconds.

Next: Former tropical storm Fengshen will bump us up Sunday from the 15 sec WNW at 2-3’ midday and veer NW peaking at 4’ Monday into Tuesday with shorter 12 seconds. The system formed off Taiwan last Sunday the 7th and moved NNE as it broadened and weakend off Japan becoming a cold core Low off the tropics warm core. It then tracked East reaching the dateline Thursday the 11th as it merged and faded with a broad area of Low pressure centered in the Eastern Aleutians.

Last: A tiny weak low tracks east from the dateline this Wednesday and will only pull off some 2’ NW surf Tuesday the 23rd.

Windward side:

Recently and until Friday we’ve see tiny 1’ surf from the light local trades and seabreeze patterns; rare to see it this small this long. Then it’ll kick up from some T Storm action below.

Tropics: T Storm Odile has come into view today Sat. with a NW track and clipping Cabo etc Monday-Tuesday. By Thursday it’s nearly gone but still may shoot out some longer period 3’ East swell around Friday-Saturday the 19-20th.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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