Wednesday, October 01, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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As we come into tons of surf for Town and Country it's time to remember a special word...RESPECT. Respect leads to comraderie which leads to more fun. Lets share and be aware and all will be good. It's simple so dont take Kala' out of context. I like what Flynn Novak has to say too. It's a few years back but still a timeless message. Happy surfing. Read the Full Story
GoPro announces launch of new HERO4 camera Nothing like a billion dollars worth of free adverstising. But that's how big they are. The HERO4 shoots 4K video at 30 frames per second Surf News Network, 29 September, 201. San Mateo - GoPro, Inc. today unveiled HERO4, the highest performance line of capture devices the company has ever made. HERO4 is available in two editions, HERO4 Black at MSRP $499 and HERO4 Silver at MSRP $399. GoPro’s Emmy® Award-winning imaging technology combines with enhanced ease-of-use and powerful new features such as 4K30, 2.7K50 and 1080p120 video capture (Black) and built-in touch display convenience (Silver), to make it easier than ever for consumers to self capture and share stunning, professional quality content of their favorite experiences..... Read the Full Story
Dying to get the shot - a look inside the right You certainly haven’t yet forgotten about Stab and Red Bull taking Taj Burrow and Mark Mathews to WA’s The Right in search of the best surf photo ever taken. But recently the session featured on ABC’s Nightline, and while it’s already been extensively covered and in this instance, it’s all been kinda translated into layman’s terms for the non-surf audience, there’s some extra info and angles covered and, really, it’s still a good watch. Plus, we dig anything in surfing scooping the attention of the mainstream media. Read the Full Story
Tyler Wright crowned Roxy Pro France champion moves to 2nd in rankings. Tyler Wright © ASP/Kirstin Surf News Network,28 September, 2014. Hossegor - Tyler Wright (AUS) has claimed victory at the Roxy Pro France, besting Courtney Conlogue (USA) in a hard-fought Final as a packed crowd looked on at the primary site of Les Gardians. Event No. 8 of 10 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP Women’s World Championship Tour, the Roxy Pro France enjoyed high-quality surf throughout the competition, suitably peaking today and providing the background for a major shakeup in the race for the ASP Women’s World Title.... Read the Full Story
Quik Pro France fires off Round 1 at Les Gardians Surf News Network 26 September, 2014. Hossegor - The world’s best surfers took to the Les Gardians lineup today in clean three-to-four foot (1 - 1.5 metre) surf for Round 1 of the Quiksilver Pro France. Event No. 9 of 11 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour, the Quiksilver Pro France commences the all-important European leg of the Dream Tour with the world surfing crown and the requalification campaigns of the world’s best surfers hanging in the balance..... Read the Full Story
LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Looking good for Town and Country well into Oct. South Shore first. BIG SURF PICTURE Looking good for Town and Country!
9/25/14 Thursday SPAC: The Jet down under is still looking good for storm enhancement and steering toward the Islands. There’s a thick North branch and a decent southern branch flowing NE from off NZL the next few days. However, the high pressure are trying to squeeze out the troughs and block off NZL around Monday the 29th. Still, we get the N bound flow under Tahiti at this time allowing for more energy to come our way. Looking good. Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 1-2’ background SSE for awhile but that’s all going to change again for a super long round of back to back to back SW-South swell. Next: A small bump from a Taz Sea fetch last Friday should pop 1’ 14 seconds on Barbers Buoy late Friday and rise into Saturday with long lulls of 1-3’ surf into Sunday. This will be overrun by the next source...
Read the Full Story
Roxy Pro France gets to Quarters Roxy Pro Kicks Off with Upsets, Dark Horses Wednesday, September 24, 2014 Date: Thursday, September 25, 2014
Schedule: Rounds 1 (Heats 1-6) and 2 (Heats 1-6) and 3 (heats 1-4)
Conditions: Waist-high surf with head-plus sets as the swell fills in....
Read the Full Story
Cazimero and Sallas take the noRep comp. And that's Tony Moniz 3rd! Surf News Network, 22 September, 2014. The third and final leg of the 2014 noRep Boardshorts Hawaii Surfing Championship took place at Sandy Beach, Oahu this past weekend. Conditions could have not been better to wrap up a great series - light off shore winds, SSW Swell and 6 foot waves made for an epic contest.... Read the Full Story
Roxy Pro France Kicks Off about 830am HI time. France 12 hours ahead. Date: Thursday, September 25, 2014
Schedule: Round 1 (Heats 1-6)
Conditions: Waist-high surf with head-plus sets as the swell fills in Round 1 Heat 1: Malia Manuel (HAW) vs. Dimity Stoyle (AUS) vs. Pauline Ado (FRA) Malia Manuel opened the competition with the first wave of the heat, snapping backhand turns in a tricky high tide. Local surfer Pauline Ado followed suit, powering down the line for a few solid backhand turns. Dimity Stoyle was next, but made just one turn before kicking out.....
Read the Full Story
World title race gets interesting at the Roxy Pro and QS Pro Photo: Sally Fitzgibbons © ASP/Cestari Surf News Network, 22 September, 2014. The world’s best female surfers have converged on the Southwest Coast of France to contest Stop No. 8 of 10 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP Women’s World Championship Tour, the Roxy Pro France, from September 23 - 29, 2014. The Roxy Pro France, held in the idyllic beachbreaks of Hossegor and Seignosse, will recommence this season’s race for the ASP World Title with Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS), Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) and Carissa Moore (HAW) leading the 18-woman field.... Read the Full Story
Kalani Foster - Celebration of Life Nov 1st. Hi, everyone today Monday the 22nd makes a week that Kalani has passed. We are only at 69% of our goal to raise money for Kalani's Ohana to help with unpaid medical bills and expenses for his celebration of life which will be on November 1, 2014. If you can give, any amount will be greatly appreciated. Herein is a photo video of Kalani as he has touched so many of us!!
Aloha & God Bless. DanDee....
Read the Full Story
Big wave pursuit turns into television series. Greg Long, Cortes Bank 2008 © Al Mackinnon/Billabong XXL. World of X Games: Big Wave Hellmen Three-Part Series airs  Surf News Network, 21 September, 2014: World of X Games will debut Big Wave Hellmen – a three-episode series with five surfers seeking the biggest waves in the world starting Sunday, Sept. 21, with a one-hour preview of the series at 4 p.m. ET on ABC. Later shows will debut on ESPN2 and will also be seen on ESPN and ABC. The three one-hour programs will document the journey and competition of big wave surfers Mark Healey, Shane Dorian, Greg Long, Grant “Twig” Baker and Ryan Hipwood in their quest and the title of “Big Wave Hellman of the Year.”.... Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of Big City Diner

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Wednesday Oct 1st 620am Update

High Surf Advsry for the South Shores (8' face threshold or just over 4' Hawaii scale).

Clear and stablizing atmosphere. Light trades give way to cloud build up and seabreezes from about 11a for many areas. High tide 10a 2'. Low tide 6p 0.4'.

NORTH: Up and holding (peaking) on the 15 second NW all day to 3-4' and even a few 5' and fewer 6' sets on top spots but long waits. Sunset breaking off the point not the west bowl. It's a super smooth lite offshore but slightly bumpy later with seabreezes. Surf's a bit smaller 3-4' down by Chuns and Jocko's but the forms near perfect.  Laniakea  2-3+' and not the best angle. Pipe area up to 2-3+' now but too much sand. See SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is up and holding on the inconsistent SSW and NW; currently 2-3' occ 4' (other west reefs bigger) with early glass then late morning to afternoon seabreeze mush most the west side until the the evening sesh. Town:  Up and holding on the new 15-17 sec SSW swell at 3-4 mostly and a chance of occ 5' (4' overhead) for top spots top sets like Ala Moana Bowls breaking at the usual but a pack is sitting right side of the buoy. It's 4' at Queens, Kaisers, should be some 5' sets at Kewalos with light offshores but late morning onshore mush could occur (check our Bowls-Courts CAM).  Diamond Head: Up and holding on the 1ong period SSW at 3-4' and even 5' toward Black Point on sets on the take off & it's good-excellent with light offshores. (see SNN Cam). Sandy's: Up and holding on the SSW mixing with the 2' N and E with clean 3-4' sets at Generals, smaller at Full and half Pt and into the big close out shorebreak. Chance of 5' bombers through Thursday. East: Makapu'u:  holding the small East swell 1-2' breakin' inside and its smooth fun.

Events, News etc

Tyler Wright nails Roxy Pro Saturday and moves to 2nd. The QS Pro to finish with 2 days left. France is 12 hours ahead so the event goes at night for Hawaii. GO HERE

Quote of the week: “I’m nervous about each heat now,” Slater said about the last 3 events of the year

SNN BIG Picture updated Wednesday 9/24 Go Here

Local Swell Tracker updated Thursday 9/25 Go Here.                                                                                                                                                                                                           

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the
Storms & Weather HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Wed '10/01'
Holding - NW
HAW: 3-5+
FACE: 5-8+
5' 16 sec; clear, clean
Thu '10/02'
Dropping - NW
HAW: 3-5+
FACE: 5-8+
5' 13 seconds
Fri '10/03'
Rising Later - W-NW
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
dropping NW, rising WNW 16 sec
Sat '10/04'
Rising - W-NW
HAW: 4-6
FACE: 6-10
4' 15 sec
Sun '10/05'
Holding - W-NW
HAW: 4-6
FACE: 6-10
4' 15 sec
Haleiwa
Wed '10/01'
Time
Ht.
L 12:12 AM 0.3 ft.
H 9:03 AM 1.6 ft.
L 3:37 PM 0.3 ft.
H 9:40 PM 0.7 ft.
Sunrise: 6:22 AM
Sunset: 6:18 PM
Thu '10/02'
Time
Ht.
L 1:41 AM 0.3 ft.
H 10:10 AM 1.6 ft.
L 4:26 PM 0.2 ft.
H 10:57 PM 0.8 ft.
Sunrise: 6:23 AM
Sunset: 6:17 PM
Fri '10/03'
Time
Ht.
L 3:07 AM 0.3 ft.
H 11:09 AM 1.6 ft.
L 5:05 PM 0.1 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:23 AM
Sunset: 6:16 PM
Sat '10/04'
Time
Ht.
H 11:54 PM 1 ft.
L 4:20 AM 0.2 ft.
H 12:00 PM 1.6 ft.
L 5:39 PM 0 ft.
Sunrise: 6:23 AM
Sunset: 6:15 PM
Sun '10/05'
Time
Ht.
H 12:42 AM 1.2 ft.
L 5:23 AM 0.2 ft.
H 12:46 PM 1.6 ft.
L 6:12 PM 0 ft.
Sunrise: 6:24 AM
Sunset: 6:14 PM

West
Holding - NW SSW
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
clear, clean. seabreezes later
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
Rising Later - COMBO
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
Rising - COMBO
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+

South
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 3-5
FACE: 5-9
clear, clean. seabreezes later
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 3-5
FACE: 5-9
4' 13 sec SSW
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
3' 12 sec SSW
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Honolulu Harbor
Wed '10/01'
Time
Ht.
L 2:17 AM 0.4 ft.
H 10:05 AM 2 ft.
L 5:42 PM 0.4 ft.
H 10:42 PM 0.8 ft.
Sunrise: 6:22 AM
Sunset: 6:18 PM
Thu '10/02'
Time
Ht.
L 3:46 AM 0.4 ft.
H 11:12 AM 2 ft.
L 6:31 PM 0.3 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:23 AM
Sunset: 6:17 PM
Fri '10/03'
Time
Ht.
H 11:59 PM 1 ft.
L 5:12 AM 0.4 ft.
H 12:11 PM 2 ft.
L 7:10 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:23 AM
Sunset: 6:16 PM
Sat '10/04'
Time
Ht.
H 12:56 AM 1.2 ft.
L 6:25 AM 0.3 ft.
H 1:02 PM 2 ft.
L 7:44 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:23 AM
Sunset: 6:15 PM
Sun '10/05'
Time
Ht.
H 1:44 AM 1.5 ft.
L 7:28 AM 0.2 ft.
H 1:48 PM 2 ft.
L 8:17 PM 0 ft.
Sunrise: 6:24 AM
Sunset: 6:14 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
clear, clean. seabreezes later
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3

Winds
Hawaii
Wed '10/01'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
seabreezes 11a-5pm
Thu '10/02'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20
Fri '10/03'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15
Sat '10/04'
SE SE
Mph: 5-10
seabreezes 11am?
Sun '10/05'
Light/Var
Mph: 5-10
seabreezes 11am

Current Swells

Wed '10/01'
Primary : S-SW / Holding , 2-4' iso 5'
Secondary : NW / Holding , 3-4 isolated 5 and 6'
Third : N / Dropping , 1-2'

Marine Warnings

Wed '10/01'
Hawaii : HI Surf Advsry for South and exptreme UV ratings so pack the BullFrog

Sailing Report

Wed '10/01'
Hawaii : Poor-Fair with lite trades to seabreezes

Diving Report

Wed '10/01'
Hawaii : East is best and fair for deep South dives. Fair for deep North watch for run off. plus swells WNW-SSW.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset NW 3- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Shoulder to 2 ft. Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhd Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Pipeline NW 2- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Waist to Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Rocky Point NW 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Haleiwa NW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Makaha NW SSW 2- to 3-feet, occ. 4 feet Waist to Head occ. 1-2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 2- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Waist to Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades fair

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades fair

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 2- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Waist to Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades fair to good

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 2- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Waist to Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades fair to good

Oahu - Makapuu ENE+N 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades fair to good

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area NW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades fair to good

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades fair to good

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades smooth

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - East - Hana E+N 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei WNW+NNW 4- to 6-feet 1-2 ft. Overhead to Double Overhead Light Trades good beach closed to swimmers

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO 3- to 5-feet Shoulder to 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades fair

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast N-NW 1- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Knee to Head occ. + Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast N-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 2- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Waist to Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

 Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Oct 01, 2014 4:00 AM HST

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
High surf advisory until 6 pm HST Thursday for south facing shores of all islands.

Synopsis
A more stable airmass is expected to return to the islands through the next few days, though light winds and muggy conditions will prevail as a weak surface high pressure ridge stays near the state.

Discussion
Mainly fair weather prevails over the islands early this morning, with isolated showers over the coastal waters. Early morning soundings from Lihue and Hilo still depict a rather unstable air mass, with little change in the moisture. Still expect to see less weather over the state through the next few days as air mass in the island vicinity will slowly become more stable. The overall synoptic surface weather pattern remains rather static in the island vicinity, as a weak high pressure ridge anchors just north of the islands at least through rest of the week. This will keep winds light in the island vicinity, allowing land and sea breezes to develop during night and day. Clouds will develop over the islands under day time heating. Since there will still be enough lingering moisture in the area, these clouds will probably bring measurable precipitation. Day time temperatures will also remain on the warm side and it may feel muggy due to the higher moisture. Showers will taper off in the evening, with clearing skies over the islands under night time cooling.

Latest forecast models still indicate the surface ridge may move south of the islands by early next week, as a surface front far northwest of the state is expected to advance more southeast. The ridge is expected to remain close enough to the islands to keep winds light. Therefore the current warm and muggy weather may persist through early next week.

Aviation
Isolated TCU will continue through the early morning across the coastal waters, which are expected to diminish after sunrise. Vfr conditions with mostly sunny skies prevail over the islands this morning. Expect to see clouds and showers building over the islands by this afternoon. Airmet sierra for mtn obsc may be necessary later today as these cloud build ups occur.

Marine
The current south swell remains high enough to bring advisory level surf heights to south facing shores today, as the readings from the near shore buoy just southwest of Oahu stay rather elevated. As such, a high surf advisory remains in effect for the south facing shores of all islands until Thursday. Also a northwest swell will peak today with below advisory levels surf for north and west facing shores. A series of moderate northwest swells will arrive during the weekend and possibly lasting through early next week.

 

 

BIG SURF PICTURE 

9/25/14 Thursday

SPAC:

The Jet down under is still looking good for storm enhancement and steering toward the Islands. There’s a thick North branch and a decent southern branch flowing NE from off NZL the next few days. However, the high pressure are trying to squeeze out the troughs and block off NZL around Monday the 29th. Still, we get the N bound flow under Tahiti at this time allowing for more energy to come our way. Looking good.

Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 1-2’ background SSE for awhile but that’s all going to change again for a super long round of back to back to back SW-South swell.

Next: A small bump from a Taz Sea fetch last Friday should pop 1’ 14 seconds on Barbers Buoy late Friday and rise into Saturday with long lulls of 1-3’ surf into Sunday. This will be overrun by the next source.

Next: The above Taz storm drifted east over NZL and gets out of to the NE side by Monday with a 40-45kt fetch nosing to about 3000 miles to our SSW or 1000 miles closer than the usual region of swell generation. Reinforcing SSW could hit 2-4’ Tuesday-Wednesday.

Next: Far below the above fetch is a much bigger stronger Low to the SE of NZL tracking ENE M-W and will add to the existing seas of the first Low to the NE. The apparent fetch from these two mergers gets nearly 1000 miles long creating yet another long lasting episode of fun in the sun and surf. Forerunners could pop 22 seconds Sunday night the 28th but it will be a slow rise over Monday-Tuesday. Still top reefs could see some 5’ sets Tuesday night and peak near 3-6’ on Wednesday-Thursday. We will have 2-3 days of high surf advsrys.

Next: Within the large Jet stream trough is yet another Big Low with its reinforcing broad 40-45kt fetch building 30’ seas Wed the 24th. Plus, the track is NE garnering a captured fetch (fetch points the same way as the storms center track) which helps grow the seas to their full potential. Thursday the track veers East under Tahiti so this swell will start out SSW and veer S. There’s a ton of storm activity far below French Polynesia so Tahiti’s going to score.

Next: Saturday the 27th shows a smaller compact Low tracking NE from below NZL which will bring up some 2-3’ SSW Saturday the 4th.

Last: Too early to claim but WW3 hints a whopper under Tazmania Oct 2nd

Note: High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough and 15’ for NW swells. Why the large threshold difference is likely an extra safety precaution where populations are greatest.

NPAC

Wednesday the Jet Stream is split 1200 miles off Japan with a larger trough looping up and down under the east Aleutians which leads to the first big NW hitting the NW coast. The fall regime change in the Jet is conducive to 3 rounds of fun NW swell. The split moves our side of the dateline by Saturday the 27th then consolidates and fattens up Sunday-Tuesday with a large dip SE near the dateline just 1200 nearing to 900 away. This will likely mean lighter winds and iffy weather early Oct. But it also spells WAVES.

Recent: It’s been tiny 2’ or less with minor pulses here and there from the NNW however, that changed today.

Currently: the surf has bumped up to 3’ Wednesday afternoon from the NW. We had a powerful Low off Kamchatka last Friday and it stayed over 2000 miles away limiting the size to max 3’. There’s also a N mixing from a nearby Low 1200 miles to our N. This is the same storm that intensifies as it tracked E toward the west coast so we’ll get N to NNE into Saturday. They’ll be 8 and even 10’ for N Cali and Oregon etc.

Next: Thursday-Friday the NPAC looks quite with only a tropical storm far off Taiwan building and tracking N to Japan. Hold on to this one.

Next: Upgrade for Saturday's storm: a Low spawns of the Kuril Islands with up to 30’ seas and a nice ESE track with a partially captured fetch; it reaches the dateline Sunday the 28th. Look for 5’ 16 seconds buoys oct. 1st  refracting/shoaling swell  for some 5-7' NW surf at Sunset Wed afternoon into Thursday morning. Could see some high surf advsry sets.

LAst: On Tuesday the 30th the tropical system above becomes a gender bender (warm to cold core Low) and feeds into the Jet energy near the West Aleutians intensifying Wed-Thursday as it moves N into the Bering sea. Still, tho’ distant its forecast to be powerful enough for 16 second forerunners and some more 4-6’ NW surf filling Sunday Oct 5th into Monday. Iffy confidence.

Windward side: With the return of the trades we’ve had a boost to 1-2’ ENE and we’ll also get some small N wrap from the above NPAC source. The surf should range from 2’ to maybe 3’ due also to a shear line moving South across the Island into Thursday. This is an abrupt change in wind speed and/or direction.

Tropics: A powerful system is on the charts Tues-Thu far off the Philippines moving NE. Too early for specifics but it's likely to be a typhoon. Things have calmed down off Baja.

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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