Saturday, August 23, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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Duke's OceanFest rolls with lifeguards & longboards & much more! photo & story from SNN Team mate Betty Depolito Aloha Surf Lifesaving Team Wins Lifeguard Challenge from Wednesday before the SSW hit.
20 August- Thursday at the 13th Annual Duke's OceanFest the ASP Pro long boarders hit the water at Queens Surf Break for the one star Association of Surfing Professionals event. Surf was a tricky 1-2 feet with inconsistent sets durning the 20 minute round one heats. The round shuffled the competitors for their quarter final bouts, August 21st...
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Teahupoo tops the list as one of surfings deadliest spots Allow us to preface this article with this: Surfing is not a particularly dangerous sport. You’re much more likely to die on the freeway than while pursuing the passion of wave riding. That said, tragedy strikes the tight-knit surf community more often than we would like, and there are a handful of surf spots where dying is more likely than at others. Regardless, surfers flock to these deadly waves in droves. It’s the rush, the danger, and the sheer joy one gets from flying down the face of an incredibly large mountain of water that keep us coming back for more despite the odds—albeit minuscule—of that being that fateful last ride. Read the Full Story
Surf's rising all day! Go Live to the Dukes OceanFest! Waves are coming up and up for the competitors. Watch for Friday to be peaking and much more consistent. Thursday we get the Wahines and Kanes Pro Am, The ITSA pro, The Papa He'e Nalu Alaia contest, The Dukes Expo, and tonight the Watermans Hall of Fame Awards Dinner at Outrigger. Read the Full Story
Event is OFF for Thursday. Likely Sunday-Tuesday. Recent post: Do or die at Teahupo'o for Round 2 action. photo: John John Florence © ASP/ Will Hayden Smith Tuesday 19 August, 2014 - Teahupo'o: The world's best surfers were back at the world's most dangerous wave today for Round 2 of the Billabong Pro Tahiti, stop no. 7 of 11 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour. It was a day of epic performances and the ASP Top 34 put on a clinic in tube riding as they took on challenging 6-to-8 foot Teahupo'o to fight for a place in Round 3.... Read the Full Story
FREE CONCERT - Ron Artis II - Saturday August 23rd This great event is all to benefit Hawaii's Lifeguard & Water Safety Fund, a 501(c)3 whose mission is to provide ocean awareness & coastline sustainability education for kids. Finish your summer with the best dang swim & run race on Oahu. The Inaugural Turtle Bay Biathlon is an athletes dreamcourse. Fast, fun, varied, and beautiful....plus there's beer after!! SIGN UP TODAY! or at the event! It's good for your kids, community and your body! Read the Full Story
VICE Sports today presents the latest from its series Sitdowns, featuring Kelly Slater. The world title surfer chats candidly about the grudge match between east and west coast surfers, his short-lived stint on Baywatch as Jimmy Slade, and his contentious friendship with the late surfer Andy Irons. Kelly Slater has ruled the surfing world for over a "2 decades" (correction by SNN), earning the title of ASP World Tour Champion a record 11 times. In the latest episode of Sitdowns, the professional surfer stopped by the VICE Sports office to show off some home footage of his early days, reveal the embarrassment behind his short-lived television stint on Baywatch, and open up about his friendship and rivalry with the late Andy Irons. In Sitdowns, VICE Sports chats with athletes about just about anything.... Read the Full Story
Day 1. Billabong Pro Tahiti goes off in Epic style! Photo: Mick Fanning © ASP/Scholtz Massive thick 6-10' Polynesian Scale Surf Greets World's Best on Opening Day 18 August, 2014 - Teahupo'o - The Billabong Pro Tahiti got underway today in biggest surf of the season as the world's best battled 10-to-18 foot faces or crest to trough surf (and 10-18' wide) at Teahupo'o for Round 1 and the opening two heats of Round 2. The seventh stop on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT) saw a thrilling day of competition as top seeds soared and even the most knowledgable of surfers suffered horrific wipeouts at the world's most dangerous waves.... Read the Full Story
The 13th Annual Dukes OceanFest going off with great timing with Mother Nature. The 13th annual Duke's OceanFest features a variety of ocean sports that were close to Duke Kahanamoku's heart, including Longboard Surfing, Paddleboard Racing, Swimming, Tandem Surfing, Surf Polo, Beach Volleyball, and Stand-Up Paddling. The events will be held throughout Waikiki from August 16-24, 2014....GO HERE Read the Full Story
The Horn Blew at 730am HI and Tahiti Time! Massive Surf In Store For Billabong Pro Tahiti All This Week The ASP, the world surf league, today announced that a swell system currently headed for Tahiti is expected to create waves up to 20-feet (6-metres) for the Billabong Pro -- Stop No. 7 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour. Live coverage of the event will be available at www.aspworldtour.com, showcasing the world’s best surfers facing historically dangerous waves in the battle for the world crown.  Read the Full Story
We lost a legend - Skating pioneer Jay Adams , one of the original Z-Boys passed away Jay Adams, the colorful rebel who helped transform skateboarding from a simple street pastime into one of the world's most spectacular sports with hair-raising stunts and an outsized personality to match, has died at age 53. Adams died of a heart attack Thursday during a surfing vacation in Mexico with his wife and friends, his manager, Susan Ferris said Friday. Read the Full Story
LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Tons of SSW swell for the Dukes Oceanfest. Country stays rideable. East side ramps esp next week. BIG SURF PICTURE Friday 8/15/14
NPAC The weaker Jet up North is going back to poor potential for swell enhancement, and tho’ she’s elongated the winds are too light for anything. Tho’ what a run of North swell over the last week or so. Julio remnants are over 600 miles N of us and High pressures are building into dominance again. Recent: tons of fun solid 3’ or head high 9 second N to NNW swell has been gracing our North Shore’s focal reefs from winds assoc with former Hurricane Julio spinning about 600 miles to our N. Prior, we even added plenty ‘Westers’ from recent Typhoons (Halong and Geneviere). This put August above seasonal averages....
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More than 600 surf industry VIPs came together... Photo: Reef McIntosh, Bob McKnight & Tom Carroll © Hilleman Annual SIMA event honors Ted Danson, Hobie Alter as well 12 August, 2014 - Supporting the preservation and protection of the ocean at the SIMA Environmental Fund Waterman’s Weekend fundraiser was on August 8-9. The 14th Annual Waterman’s Classic Golf Tournament took place at the Monarch Beach Golf Links in Dana Point on Friday, and the 25th Annual Waterman’s Ball took place at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel the following night. In the past 24 years the SIMA Environmental Fund has raised more than $6.5 million through the Waterman’s Ball for organizations dedicated to preserving and protecting our oceans, beaches and waves. In this 25th anniversary year, the sold-out Waterman’s events aimed to push the fundraising total to the $7 million mark.... Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of Dukes OceanFest

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Friday Aug. 22nd 640am

High Surf Advsry for all Southern exposures on a 4' SSW.

Gorgeous leeward skies today with light ENE trades early then filling to moderate 10-20+mph. We have a 0.1 Low Tide 730a pushing up to 2' at 230pm.

NORTH: Down to an inch and holding on background NE wrap; it's smooth with clear skies and super light trades; perfect diving, paddling, swimming etc.  Clean offshores later. See our new SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is up and holding on the new SSW at 1-2 occ higher and other western reefs a little bigger 1-3 occ 4' and it's glassy but will see some offshores by 8 or 9am. Another clear hot and sunny day on the way for the wild west side. Town: Up and holding on the new 15 second SSW at an inconsistent 2-3' occ 4' sets at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos (check our new Bowls-Courts CAM); smooth light offshores; Dukes OceanFest will score through Sunday. Diamond Head: Up and holding on the SSW at 2-3' occas 4' with long lines and so far it's fairly clean for now but later we'll see more typical sideoffshore bumpiness from the 10-20+ ENE trades by around 9 or 10am; Sandy's: Up and holding on the new SSW at 2-3' occ 4' powerful sets and breaking all over. Holding on the East swell at 1-2' mixing for Pipe Littles to Cobbles with sideoffshore bump and fairly clear.   East: Makapu'u: Holding 1-2 mostly and likely a few plus sets just under 3' or head high on generic local trades on the left to the middle mostly and a bit smaller at Keiki's...10-20 mph E trades filling with the typical chop.

SNN BIG Picture updated Thursday 8/21 HERE

Events, News etc.

This Saturday the 23rd...The 1st Annual Turtle Bay Resort Biathlon benefiting Hawaii's Lifeguard & Water Safety Fund. Then it's a  free concert at Turtle Bay  by the Ron Artis II band, all to benefit Hawaii's Lifeguard & Water Safety Fund.  

ASP stop #6: The Billabong Tahiti Pro (holding period 15-24th). Day 3 will have more life threatening swell Sunday-Monday. GO HERE

The 13th Annual Dukes OceanFest kicked off this past weekend Aug 16 and doesnt stop till this Sunday the 24th. A new overhead SSW is here Thursday-Saturday! GO HERE

Quote of the week"I've tried body surfing. It's nice" Ziggy Marley

Turtle Bay Resort WNW surf session Saturday eve.

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Fri '08/22'
Holding - NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
partly clear, clean
Sat '08/23'
Holding - NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
Sun '08/24'
Holding - NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
Mon '08/25'
Holding - NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
Tue '08/26'
Holding - NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
Haleiwa
Fri '08/22'
Time
Ht.
H 1:05 AM 0.8 ft.
L 5:34 AM 0.1 ft.
H 1:39 PM 1.7 ft.
L 7:24 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:12 AM
Sunset: 6:55 PM
Sat '08/23'
Time
Ht.
H 1:40 AM 0.9 ft.
L 6:13 AM 0.1 ft.
H 2:10 PM 1.7 ft.
L 7:48 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:12 AM
Sunset: 6:54 PM
Sun '08/24'
Time
Ht.
H 2:14 AM 1 ft.
L 6:50 AM 0.1 ft.
H 2:38 PM 1.6 ft.
L 8:11 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:53 PM
Mon '08/25'
Time
Ht.
H 2:48 AM 1 ft.
L 7:27 AM 0.1 ft.
H 3:07 PM 1.6 ft.
L 8:35 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:52 PM
Tue '08/26'
Time
Ht.
H 3:23 AM 1.1 ft.
L 8:05 AM 0.2 ft.
H 3:34 PM 1.5 ft.
L 9:00 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:52 PM

West
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 1-3+
FACE: 2-5+
clear, clean
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Rising - COMBO
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Holding - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+

South
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
3' 15 sec; clear, clean
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
Rising - S+SSW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
new 2' 16 sec South
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
2' 15 sec South
Holding - S
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
2' 14 sec South
Honolulu Harbor
Fri '08/22'
Time
Ht.
H 2:07 AM 1 ft.
L 7:39 AM 0.1 ft.
H 2:41 PM 2.1 ft.
L 9:29 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:12 AM
Sunset: 6:55 PM
Sat '08/23'
Time
Ht.
H 2:42 AM 1.1 ft.
L 8:18 AM 0.1 ft.
H 3:12 PM 2.1 ft.
L 9:53 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:12 AM
Sunset: 6:54 PM
Sun '08/24'
Time
Ht.
H 3:16 AM 1.2 ft.
L 8:55 AM 0.1 ft.
H 3:40 PM 2 ft.
L 10:16 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:53 PM
Mon '08/25'
Time
Ht.
H 3:50 AM 1.3 ft.
L 9:32 AM 0.2 ft.
H 4:09 PM 2 ft.
L 10:40 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:52 PM
Tue '08/26'
Time
Ht.
H 4:25 AM 1.4 ft.
L 10:10 AM 0.2 ft.
H 4:36 PM 1.9 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:52 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
mostly cloudy, choppy
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+

Winds
Hawaii
Fri '08/22'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20+
Sat '08/23'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15+
Sun '08/24'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15+
Mon '08/25'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20
Tue '08/26'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20+

Current Swells

Fri '08/22'
Primary : S-SW / Holding , 2-4'
Secondary : E-NE / Holding , 1-2+'
Third : NE / Holding , 1-2'

Marine Warnings

Fri '08/22'
Hawaii : Advsry SSW all day; extreme UV so bring da BullFrog!

Sailing Report

Fri '08/22'
Hawaii : good w/ light AM ENE trades picking up mid morning to moderate paces.

Diving Report

Fri '08/22'
Hawaii : Good for all North shores West is fair to good for deep dives but surges. South is poor/fair: gotta go deep now as an advsry SSW peaking. Fair/typical out East.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Trades good

Oahu - Pipeline COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Rocky Point COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Trades good

Oahu - Haleiwa COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades smooth

Oahu - Makaha SSW rising 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades good

Oahu - Ala Moana SSW rising 2- to 3-feet, occ. 4 feet Waist to Head occ. 1-2 ft. Overhead Trades good

Oahu - Waikiki SSW rising 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Trades good

Oahu - Diamond Head SSW rising 2- to 3-feet, occ. 4 feet Waist to Head occ. 1-2 ft. Overhead Trades good

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 2- to 3-feet, occ. 4 feet Waist to Head occ. 1-2 ft. Overhead FRESH TRADES good

Oahu - Makapuu E 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist FRESH TRADES bumpy

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers FRESH TRADES good

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades smooth

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina SSW rising 1- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Knee to Head occ. + Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers FRESH TRADES good

Maui - East - Hana E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades fair to good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO 1- to occ. 2-feet Knee to occ. Waist Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu SSW rising 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Trades fair to good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades fair to good

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades fair to good

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast SSW rising 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast NE rising 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades mild choppiness

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 2- to 3-feet, occ. 4 feet Waist to Head occ. 1-2 ft. Overhead FRESH TRADES fair

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Aug 15, 2014 3:39 AM HST

Synopsis
Locally breezy trade winds will continue through the weekend. Clouds and showers will be focused over windward and mauka areas, mainly during the night and morning hours. Isolated showers will also be possible across the leeward slopes of the Big Island each afternoon and evening.

Discussion
Stable stratocumulus clouds and scattered low-topped showers have increased across the windward coastal waters during the last several hours, but rain gauge data indicates that only light rainfall amounts have occurred at some land stations, with most places remaining dry. Surface analysis depicts a high pressure ridge nosing westward along 26°N, between Hawaii and weakening tropical storm Julio far to our north. The building high to our north has caused moderate trade winds to resume across the state. Aloft, a mid/upper level anticyclone is centered to the northeast of the state with a ridge extending westward to our north. The 12Z soundings found a dry and stable environment remaining in place, with a well defined inversion lowering to about 5500 feet at Lihue. It appears that the Hilo sounding was probably affected by nearby showers, which resulted in a slightly higher inversion up near 8000 feet along with a slight pwat increase. Pwats at both stations remained below the 25th percentile for this time of year. Mimic-tpw imagery shows little change in the airmass upstream of the state, with estimated pwats near or just over one inch extending eastward for over 1000 miles, and the northern edge of deep tropical moisture remaining a few hundred miles south of the Big Island.

Little change is in store for today through the weekend, with moderate to locally breezy trades continuing. Ridging aloft will remain over and north of the state. Models maintain dry and stable conditions, with the inversion remaining at 5-6k feet, and pwats remaining below normal, near or just over one inch. Expect the rather dry trade pattern to persist, with limited passing showers mainly during the late night and early morning over windward and mauka areas, and isolated showers possible on the leeward Big Island each afternoon and early evening.

A somewhat wetter trade pattern may develop early next week, when most of the model guidance develops a weak mid/upper level trough near or just north of the state. This should allow for some weakening of the subsidence inversion, which combined with pockets of modestly higher moisture moving through in the continued moderate trade wind flow could allow for increased shower activity. Would expect showers to remain focused over windward/mauka, but leeward areas could see a bit more shower activity as well especially during the late night and early morning hours.

There continues to be much uncertainty with respect to potential developments in the tropical Pacific as we head into next week. Global models have been consistently indicating some sort of development far southeast of the state, but also have been depicting wildly varying evolutions and motions of any system that may eventually develop. The situation is further complicated by the potential for interaction with current east Pacific tropical storm Karina. It is too early to have any confidence as to the potential impacts, if any, on island weather next week. For now, the forecast calls for typical trade wind weather to continue.

Marine
The overnight ascat pass missed the Hawaiian coastal waters, but an earlier pass from late Thursday morning indicated a pocket of 25 knot winds in the Alenuihaha channel. Trade winds are expected to gradually strengthen further today through the weekend, and a small craft advisory remains in effect for the typically windier areas near Maui and the Big Island. Winds around 25 knots are expected to continue across the advisory area through the weekend.

Swell from a variety of sources will continue to affect the state through the weekend, but resulting surf heights are expected to remain below advisory criteria on all shores. A small northwest swell will arrive today and continue through the weekend, while several overlapping small southerly swells will continue to arrive through the weekend and into next week.

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
Small craft advisory until 6 am HST Monday for Maalaea Bay, Pailolo channel, Alenuihaha channel, Big Island leeward waters, Big Island southeast waters.

 

BIG SURF PICTURE Thursday 8/21/14

SPAC:

The jet is mostly zonal till Saturday when we see a slight NE tilting trough. But it really gets good with deeper troughing to the SE of NZL and a NNE flow Monday-Wed the 25-27. This should lead to tons of above average SSW swells end of Aug and into Sept.

Recent: It's been a good August. We just finished a fun 2-3+' South from a Low that was far to the ESE of NZL and another Low off North NZL just over a week ago and pushed out some fun surf for a few days. This is currently overrun by a bigger better event.  

Next: High Surf advsy (8' faces) or 2-4+’ SSW surfer scale waves with long period surf Thursday after midday into Saturday morning for the Dukes Oceanfest! The Source was a powerful Low with 55-60kts comes into our window SE of NZL splitting it potential as it slammed into NZL. Some of its fetch hugged the East coast with a captured fetch. 18 sec forerunners popped Wed the 20th and should be reaching 3’ 16 sec swells or 2-4+ SSW surf Thursday afternoon and holding with much more consistency Friday at this size before backing down only alittle this coming weekend for the Dukes Finals. There was a much closer fetch from the end phases of this storms journey just 3500miles away which will add shorter periods to the longer period SSW Friday into Saturday. Watch for tons of sets all weekend.

Next: More E tracking Lows SE of NZL kept coming this week sending most their energy to out east off to the Americas. Still, sideband swell should fill 2' 16 sec swell late Saturday into Sunday overlapping the prior swell and keeping us in the fun zone into Tuesday.

Next: WW3 shows back ground fetch zones all along NZL for ongoing small summer time levels. By Sat the fetch area is broad and to the NE of NZL only 3500 miles off. We can expect a rising SSW Thursday from this source of 3' 15 sec 'swells' reaching near 4' 14 sec Sat-Sunday leading to 'surf' of 3-5' Friday as it peaks.

Next: Models show a powerful 30-35' sea storm to the SE of NZL by this Tuesday the 26th. The key is a perfect NNE track with a captured fetch for 3 days. Buoys will pop with 20 sec forerunners Monday as it fills and peaks Tuesday Sept 2nd with swells of 3' 16 seconds and surf refracting/shoaling up to 3-5' from the SSW-S.

Last: Wed-Thursday 8/27-28....an even more intense low with 40' seas and a NE track far ESE of NZL pumps out new High Surf Adv on the heals of the last swell. WW3 predicts 3' 18 sec Wed 9/3 and a peak of 4' 16 seconds. If the model fantasy comes true this will mean the best back to back swells of the summer. Easy 6' for 2.5 days. Long range output most often run 'hot' or overcall the episode.

(See SPAC models HERE)

NPAC

The Jet stream is weak far to the North with no signs of surface Low enhancement out 7 days.

Recently: It's all gone...Days and days of N-ENE Hurrincane swell and Typhoon swell and even a few WNW-NNW 'Fall like' ground swells...but we'll still remember this as one of the best Augusts on record.

Next: it's all about the trade wrap and NE-ENE swells from the tropics. See below. Right now models over calling the newest Big TS storm to bring us 3-6' 14 second ENE swell Saturday 8/30.

(See NPAC models HERE)

Windward side: We’ve have small 1-2’ East swell from generic local and upstream trades. Minor variation between 2' and 3’ surf over the next 7 days thnks to our Summer time High pressure lodged to the NE.

Tropics: We have quite a bit going on in the east pac tropics. 2 storms Lowell and Karina tracking North and merging. Not to worry, the systems should dissapate this weekend. Longer period swell from these storms should fill into easy 3' Sunday-Tuesday.  Long range models do show another system taking shape Sunday-Tuesday. Models have it getting pretty big as it moves ENE to East and by Thursday the 28th; it's 1200 miles wide about 6-900 miles off Baja. We'll keep an eye on it and likely East swell near end of Aug.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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