Thursday, October 02, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
Text Size
Login
off 9/15. on 9/28
Banner
Banner

Come on into STABL this morning and hang with a Legend.

The Ohana at STABL & Hawaiian Style are honored to have Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz talk story. Please come and enjoy his surfing life story.

What:Doc's return to paradise DOC TOC (Doc Talk) Talk Story with Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz

Today, June 14th 2014 10:00a-12:00p...

Where:Hawaiian Style & STABL Store
1714 Kapiolani Blvd

Dorian Paskowitz loves to be called Doc.

Doc Paskowitz started surfing in the Gulf of Mexico on Galveston Island. He’s 92, and he’s still surfing.

While he would never agree, Doc can be considered one of the earliest pioneers of the shape of today’s surf culture. He spent nearly 25 years on the road, living in a succession of used campers. It is, quite possibly, the world’s longest surf trip. He and his wife raised nine children in those campers, soaking them in the ocean and their idea of how life should be lived.

During the course of an hour-long conversation, Doc dropped some serious wisdom on me. He is an extraordinarily smart man – not because of his education, but because, in his own words, “Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.”

Here’s a bit of that wisdom.

The way I lived was more in keeping with the way the great apes live; the way the noble chimpanzees live; the way the vast majority of human beings on the planet live.

I may have been considered “kooky” in a Stanford atmosphere, or a San Francisco atmosphere or a San Diego atmosphere, but I felt that our lifestyle was in keeping with a cosmic, universal human atmosphere. I really feel that we were just keeping with what is more human.

Saying I quit being a doctor was just a very convenient way to explain my bizarre behavior. “He was a dedicated intellectual, and he saw the purposelessness of life and gave it all up to become a nomad.” That’s bullshit! I was a nomad to begin with. I’m a nomad now.

Going on the road was not a planned, contrived choreographed decision. It was in keeping with the lifestyle that I grew up with. I grew up as a lifeguard and a beach bum. That’s been my lifestyle since I was 12. It’s a lifestyle I’ve stuck to. I’m still one now.



Bio: http://en.wikipedia.org/
wiki/Doc_Paskowitz

Please join us…See you at Hawaiian Style Store.

Add comment


Security code
Refresh

Banner
Banner
Banner
Banner
Banner
Banner
Banner
Banner

Login Form