Allow us to preface this article with this: Surfing is not a particularly dangerous sport. You’re much more likely to die on the freeway than while pursuing the passion of wave riding. That said, tragedy strikes the tight-knit surf community more often than we would like, and there are a handful of surf spots where dying is more likely than at others. Regardless, surfers flock to these deadly waves in droves. It’s the rush, the danger, and the sheer joy one gets from flying down the face of an incredibly large mountain of water that keep us coming back for more despite the odds—albeit minuscule—of that being that fateful last ride.
Waves are coming up and up for the competitors. Watch for Friday to be peaking and much more consistent. Thursday we get the Wahines and Kanes Pro Am, The ITSA pro, The Papa He'e Nalu Alaia contest, The Dukes Expo, and tonight the Watermans Hall of Fame Awards Dinner at Outrigger.