Wednesday, August 27, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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Medina beats Slater at Teahupo'o in what many claim to be the best ASP contest ever. Amazing final day of Billabong Pro Tahiti drops jaws Surf News Network, 25 August, 2014: Teahupo'o, Tahiti - The world’s best surfers put everything on the line as they battled the world’s most dangerous wave for an historic Finals day at the Billabong Pro Tahiti, stop no. 7 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT). The Final Day's 12-man field took on perilous conditions and monster 12-to-15 foot barreling waves, the biggest of the season, in pursuit of victory. It was Gabriel Medina (BRA) who came out on top to claim the coveted title of Billabong Pro Tahiti Champion after an unbelievable day of competition and what is being dubbed the best WCT contest in history.... Read the Full Story
This will be the hottest surfing debate of the year... SafeSurfHawaii is a group of surfers, bodyboarders and bodysurfers who believe that the time has come for the DLNR to adopt rules that will ensure that Hawaii's surf zones are safe and enjoyable for all waveriders. The increasing presence of Stand Up Paddleboard ("SUP") users in Hawaii's surfzones has created both safety and fair access problems for surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers. The time has come for the DLNR to adopt rules regulating the use of SUPs in surf zones (or at least to try a pilot project in a limited area offshore from Ala Moana Beachpark ... i.e. the Safe Surfzones Pilot Project)... Read the Full Story
Kai Sallas claims ASP 1-Star LQS event at Dukes OceanFest Surf News Network, 22 August, The gods sent the surf for the Duke's OceanFest on Thursday for the finals of the Association of Surfing Professionals one star long boarding contest. A stand out in the competition was Maui Zane who is originally from Maui but lives and works in Waikiki.... Read the Full Story
Gabriel Medina beats Kelly Slater to win his 3rd event. Sunday's post: Perfect 10s spike Billabong Pro Tahiti Round 3 photo: John John Florence © ASP / Will H-S Being called the best contest in ASP History. Perfection. Full story coming. Yesterday. Surf News Network, 24 August, Teahupo'o - The world’s best surfers returned to the world’s most dangerous wave for the recommencement of stop no. 7 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT), the Billabong Pro Tahiti, this morning and the action reached a fever pitch as the original 36-person field was whittled down to the final 12... Read the Full Story
Billabong Pro Tahiti is 4-5' and rising. Round 3-4. Oceanic 250. Heat 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) loses to an in rythm Tiago Pires (PRT) Perennial World Title bridesmaid Taj Burrow, World No. 4, faced off against Tiago Pires, World No. 28 and the 2014 WCT wildcard. After a restart, Pires took the first wave at the horn, earning a solid 7.50 and putting Burrow on the defense. Burrow answered back with a solid drop, but it earned him a 6.17, keeping him in a defensive role. Throughout the heat Pires continued to grab wave after wave, scoring an 8.00 on one ride, and topping it with a 9.00. The scores put him well ahead of his veteran opponent, with a 17.00 to Burrow's combined 6.54 at the halfway mark. A 25th puts Taj at a bad spot for a world title this year. Read the Full Story
Duke's OceanFest rolls with lifeguards & longboards & much more! photo & story from SNN Team mate Betty Depolito Aloha Surf Lifesaving Team Wins Lifeguard Challenge from Wednesday before the SSW hit.
20 August- Thursday at the 13th Annual Duke's OceanFest the ASP Pro long boarders hit the water at Queens Surf Break for the one star Association of Surfing Professionals event. Surf was a tricky 1-2 feet with inconsistent sets durning the 20 minute round one heats. The round shuffled the competitors for their quarter final bouts, August 21st...
Read the Full Story
Teahupoo tops the list as one of surfings deadliest spots Allow us to preface this article with this: Surfing is not a particularly dangerous sport. You’re much more likely to die on the freeway than while pursuing the passion of wave riding. That said, tragedy strikes the tight-knit surf community more often than we would like, and there are a handful of surf spots where dying is more likely than at others. Regardless, surfers flock to these deadly waves in droves. It’s the rush, the danger, and the sheer joy one gets from flying down the face of an incredibly large mountain of water that keep us coming back for more despite the odds—albeit minuscule—of that being that fateful last ride. Read the Full Story
Surf's rising all day! Go Live to the Dukes OceanFest! Waves are coming up and up for the competitors. Watch for Friday to be peaking and much more consistent. Thursday we get the Wahines and Kanes Pro Am, The ITSA pro, The Papa He'e Nalu Alaia contest, The Dukes Expo, and tonight the Watermans Hall of Fame Awards Dinner at Outrigger. Read the Full Story
FREE CONCERT - Ron Artis II - Saturday August 23rd This great event is all to benefit Hawaii's Lifeguard & Water Safety Fund, a 501(c)3 whose mission is to provide ocean awareness & coastline sustainability education for kids. Finish your summer with the best dang swim & run race on Oahu. The Inaugural Turtle Bay Biathlon is an athletes dreamcourse. Fast, fun, varied, and beautiful....plus there's beer after!! SIGN UP TODAY! or at the event! It's good for your kids, community and your body! Read the Full Story
VICE Sports today presents the latest from its series Sitdowns, featuring Kelly Slater. The world title surfer chats candidly about the grudge match between east and west coast surfers, his short-lived stint on Baywatch as Jimmy Slade, and his contentious friendship with the late surfer Andy Irons. Kelly Slater has ruled the surfing world for over a "2 decades" (correction by SNN), earning the title of ASP World Tour Champion a record 11 times. In the latest episode of Sitdowns, the professional surfer stopped by the VICE Sports office to show off some home footage of his early days, reveal the embarrassment behind his short-lived television stint on Baywatch, and open up about his friendship and rivalry with the late Andy Irons. In Sitdowns, VICE Sports chats with athletes about just about anything.... Read the Full Story
The 13th Annual Dukes OceanFest going off with great timing with Mother Nature. The 13th annual Duke's OceanFest features a variety of ocean sports that were close to Duke Kahanamoku's heart, including Longboard Surfing, Paddleboard Racing, Swimming, Tandem Surfing, Surf Polo, Beach Volleyball, and Stand-Up Paddling. The events will be held throughout Waikiki from August 16-24, 2014....GO HERE Read the Full Story
We lost a legend - Skating pioneer Jay Adams , one of the original Z-Boys passed away Jay Adams, the colorful rebel who helped transform skateboarding from a simple street pastime into one of the world's most spectacular sports with hair-raising stunts and an outsized personality to match, has died at age 53. Adams died of a heart attack Thursday during a surfing vacation in Mexico with his wife and friends, his manager, Susan Ferris said Friday. Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of Leahi Health Beverages

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Tuesday Aug. 26th 630am

Partly clear with pockets of rain clouds. Light NE trade winds. Predawn 1.4' High tide @ 430am dropping out to a .1' Low tide @ 930am pushing up the rest of the day to 1.9' at 430pm.

NORTH: Tiny and Holding on background 6 inch NE wrap; it's cloudy and fairly smooth with light NE trades; best for diving, paddling, swimming etc. See our new SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is down and Holding on the SSW at 0-2' average with higher ones for other western reefs & super smooth early. Town: Down and holding on the 13 second SSW at 1-2 mostly with a few isolated 2.5' and 3' etc at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos (check our new Bowls-Courts CAM); super clean straight light NE offshores.  Diamond Head: Holding on the SSW at 1-2 occ 3' with nice lines and so far it's relatively clean light NE offshores. Sandy's: Down and Holding on the SSW and alittle more E wrap at a good clean 2-3' and still a few big barrels and breaking all over.  East: Makapu'u:  Up a notch and Holding the slightly bumpy 1-2.5' on generic local trades and now on the longer period 12 second East the left to the middle mostly and a bit smaller at Keiki's...5-15 mph NE trades filling.

SNN BIG Picture updated Monday 8/25 HERE

Events, News etc.

Gabriel Medina beats Slater to win his 3rd event of the year and extend his ratings lead. A good chance this will be his year. ASP stop #6: The Billabong Tahiti Pro will go down as one of the best events in ASP History. GO HERE

Quote of the week:   "It was incredible. I've never seen anything like it and today will go down as one of the best days of surfing in my career, no question". Kelly Slater on the Billabong Pro Tahiti 8/25/14

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

Sandy's Monday dawn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Tue '08/26'
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
clouds, fairly clean
Wed '08/27'
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
partly cloudy, clean
Thu '08/28'
Rising Later - E-NE
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
isolated ENE wrap
Fri '08/29'
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
isolated focal spots
Sat '08/30'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
Haleiwa
Tue '08/26'
Time
Ht.
H 3:23 AM 1.1 ft.
L 8:05 AM 0.2 ft.
H 3:34 PM 1.5 ft.
L 9:00 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:52 PM
Wed '08/27'
Time
Ht.
H 4:00 AM 1.2 ft.
L 8:45 AM 0.3 ft.
H 4:03 PM 1.4 ft.
L 9:26 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:51 PM
Thu '08/28'
Time
Ht.
H 4:41 AM 1.2 ft.
L 9:28 AM 0.3 ft.
H 4:32 PM 1.3 ft.
L 9:54 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:50 PM
Fri '08/29'
Time
Ht.
H 5:26 AM 1.3 ft.
L 10:19 AM 0.4 ft.
H 5:04 PM 1.1 ft.
L 10:26 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:49 PM
Sat '08/30'
Time
Ht.
H 6:18 AM 1.3 ft.
L 11:24 AM 0.5 ft.
H 5:40 PM 1 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:48 PM

West
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
partly clear, clean
Rising Later - S-SW
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
clear, clean
Rising - S-SW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5

South
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
partly clear, clean
Rising Later - S-SW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
clearer, clean
Rising - S-SW
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
Honolulu Harbor
Tue '08/26'
Time
Ht.
H 4:25 AM 1.4 ft.
L 10:10 AM 0.2 ft.
H 4:36 PM 1.9 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:52 PM
Wed '08/27'
Time
Ht.
L 11:05 PM 0.2 ft.
H 5:02 AM 1.5 ft.
L 10:50 AM 0.3 ft.
H 5:05 PM 1.8 ft.
Sunrise: 6:13 AM
Sunset: 6:51 PM
Thu '08/28'
Time
Ht.
L 11:31 PM 0.2 ft.
H 5:43 AM 1.5 ft.
L 11:33 AM 0.4 ft.
H 5:34 PM 1.6 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:50 PM
Fri '08/29'
Time
Ht.
L 11:59 PM 0.2 ft.
H 6:28 AM 1.6 ft.
L 12:24 PM 0.6 ft.
H 6:06 PM 1.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:49 PM
Sat '08/30'
Time
Ht.
L 12:31 AM 0.2 ft.
H 7:20 AM 1.6 ft.
L 1:29 PM 0.7 ft.
H 6:42 PM 1.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:48 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
cloudy, choppy; 12 sec ground swell
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-3+
FACE: 2-5+
mostly cloudy, bumpy
Rising Later - E
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
2' 18 second forerunners
Holding - E
HAW: 5-7+
FACE: 7-12+
above advsry levels
Dropping - E
HAW: 3-6
FACE: 5-10

Winds
Hawaii
Tue '08/26'
NE NE
Mph: 5-15
Wed '08/27'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 10-20
Thu '08/28'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15
Shwrs? seabreezes?
Fri '08/29'
E E
Mph: 5-15
Shwrs? noon seabreezes
Sat '08/30'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-15+
increasing

Current Swells

Tue '08/26'
Primary : S-SW / Holding , 1-3'
Secondary : E-NE / Rising , 1-3'
Third : S-SW / Rising Evening , 0-2'

Marine Warnings

Tue '08/26'
Hawaii : None; extreme UV so bring da BullFrog!

Sailing Report

Tue '08/26'
Hawaii : Fair w/ light AM ENE trades picking up mid morning

Diving Report

Tue '08/26'
Hawaii : Fair-Good for all North shores, good for west and fair for east shores. Fair-good deep dives for the south side with moderate SSW swell.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset E-NE Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Trades good

Oahu - Pipeline E-NE Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Rocky Point E-NE Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Trades good

Oahu - Haleiwa COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades smooth

Oahu - Makaha S-SW Flat- to 2-feet 0 to Waist Trades good

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades good

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades good

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades good

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Trades good

Oahu - Makapuu E 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades mild choppiness

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades smooth

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Trades good Bigger down the road

Maui - East - Hana E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades slightly bumpy

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO 1- to occ. 2-feet Knee to occ. Waist Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades fair to good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades mild choppiness

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades fair to good

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast NE 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Trades mild choppiness

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Trades fair to good

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Aug 26, 2014 4:00 AM HST

Marine
We are anticipating an active swell episode later in the week. In a rare case, the east facing shores are forecast to have some long period swell of 17 seconds at 4 to 5 ft generated by tropical cyclone Marie, located some 2380 miles east of the Big Island. Its long period and sufficient size of the swell will likely result in a high surf advisory for exposed east facing shores.

The south facing shores will also see some action. The current moderate surf may be reinforced by a slightly larger bump about late Wednesday thus warranting a high surf advisory for Thursday through Friday. Both swells will be declining through the weekend.

No small craft advisory conditions are expected through at least Saturday. However, the long period easterly swell due on Thursday into Saturday could produce unusual conditions in east facing channels and harbors.

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
None.

Synopsis
A trade wind regime will hold through the rest of this week as high pressure remains north of the state. The only significant change expected is the strength of the trades which will taper off some by Friday. Otherwise, the trades will continue to carry the embedded showers on to the islands, affecting the windward and mountain areas. At times, a shower or two will drift downwind into the leeward communities of the smaller islands. The Kona slopes of the Big Island will continue to experience afternoon clouds and showers.

Discussion
A trade wind regime is expected to last through the rest of this week and into the weekend. The source of the trades is being passed on now from a weakening high to the northeast to a new and stronger high located far north northwest of Oahu. This new high is easing eastward and will be directly north of the main Hawaiian islands Wednesday where it stalls and weakens. The response to this will be the moderate trades lowering to light by Friday. This period of light trades should last about 2 days with moderate trades back in place by Sunday night. Usually the light trades will be weak enough for daytime seabreezes to develop along leeward beaches and interior areas of the smaller islands. This convergent wind flow over land will result in some afternoon clouds and possibly a shower or two. The models though, are showing a stable air mass settling over the islands Wednesday night that lower the inversion from the current 10k to 8k. This would help limit the convective activity to isolated into the weekend. The weakening of the high is being attributed to the dissipating remnants of tropical cyclone Lowell moving to an area northeast of the islands where it will disrupt the trade flow destined for the Hawaiian islands.

The pop grids reflect a drier regime between Wednesday night to only Friday morning. The pops for the weekend reflect remnant moisture from the cyclones reaching the island but that is questionable at this time.

At the upper levels, we have a low roughly 470 miles west northwest of Kauai that is moving further away. The southerly winds aloft over the Hawaiian islands will become westerlies by Wednesday as the low continues west and dissipates. An east to west oriented trough will then form north of the islands straddling 28°N latitude. So in short, there are no upper level disturbances to affect the islands.

In the mean time, one band of showers has cleared the islands, another one will be here shortly, within an hour. After a brief pause more shower bearing clouds could be arriving. I emphasize could since precip water from satellite imagery shows a drier air mass with these clouds now entering the offshore waters northeast of the islands, behind the second band. These clouds are out of radar range at this time, so i am not sure how much showers are with these clouds. I have decided to go drier never the less for this afternoon, with the possibility that these clouds may keep the afternoon hours on the showery side.

BIG SURF PICTURE 8/26/14

SPAC:

The Jet down under has been dominant with equatorial bound (ENE) flows leading to plenty surf, but the last few days its been zonal (west to east) with 2 branches staying the same most this week. By Thursday/Friday there’s another ENE tilt which will enhance a big storm but it'll be sending much of the energy off to our east since the equatorbound flow is far off NZL to under French Polynesia.

Recent: We’ve had nonstop surf for about 2 weeks; 2 Lows tracked SE of NZL Thursday 8/7 and these sources created surf the 1st weekend for the Dukes Oceanfest! Then a powerful Low a few days after with 55kts saw into our window SE of NZL hugging the East coast with a captured fetch. We got 18 sec forerunners Wed the 20th reaching 3’ 15 sec swells or 2-4+ SSW surf Thursday midday and the final Dukes weekend…one of the best weeks for the OceanFest in over 5 years.

Currently, we saw some 4’ sets from the SSW this past F-M from 2 sources: a gale 40kt storm east of NZL mid August. Her fetch head got to 3500 miles away which allowed for head high sets. Then a stronger system further SE of NZL with 47kts added more size over the weekend and into Monday. Some spots peaked 5’ over the weekend but these were special cases/spots. Things level off to head high Tuesday.

Next: Another compact Low SE of NZL tracked east again last Monday-Tuesday and will keep us at 3’ solid before a SSW swell arrives Wednesday.

Next: The Jet set up a long wave trough from Wednesday the 20th. We also saw a big High in the Taz which created solid winds in between the High spinning counter clockwise next to the Low spinning clockwise (opposite spins from the NPAC). This allowed a huge fetch area east of NZL last Thursday-Saturday. The head of the fetch got to within 3000 miles which is about 1000 miles closer than the usual. This means less ocean swell decay over distance and another round of advsry surf filling late Wednesday peaking Thursday into Saturday and even Sunday…High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough which is what typical surfers look for. The NS needs 15’ or twice the size which most surfers don’t look for. Why the large difference is likely extra safety precautions where populations are greatest.

Next: : Models backed down big time on their output a week ago for a new event early Sept. A broad gale Low far east of NZL reached near Tahiti last weekend. Now, it’s going to be 1-3’ South Sunday-Tuesday.

Last couple: Low confidence of models showing a big broad storm up off the Ross Ice Shelf Wed the 27th which fades fast and followed up fast by a much bigger Low Thursday. The issue is the ENE track but side band swell should hit 3 maybe 4’ with long periods Thursday sept 4-6th. Let’s take a better look this weekend.

NPAC

The weak Jet up North is continuing it’s summer position with poor potential for swell enhancement, and tho’ she’s elongated the winds are too light for anything. Most the deeper troughing occurs under the gulf toward the end of the 7 day forecast.

Recent: It’s been quite and average after the long run of Typhoon West swells and Hurricane N swells making Aug the best in memory. Reliable sources like Pat Kelly with over 40 years up there plus, a former NS Capt and SNN eye’s on the country claimed it.

Next: East wrap from hurricane Maria will send long 2-3’ 14-16 second periods producing surf up 4’ around Kahuku and less to select spots toward Haleiwa starting Thursday and into the weekend.

Next: nothing is on the models out over 10 days.

Windward side:

Recently, small 2’ East swell have been dominant but that’s increasing today from 2 Tropical systems:  Lowell and Karina off Baja and weakening. Then it goes up big time with a rare push of 14- 17 second East surf from Cat 5 Hurricane Maria tracking ENE off of Baja (see below). Surf on the windward spots will reach as high as 7’ local scale. We also have two 1030mb High up beyond 40 north or 1200-1500 miles away keeping us in the typical trade wind pattern. So after this upcoming run its back to normal by next Wednesday.

Tropics: Cat 5 Hurricane Maria built this past weekend SSW of Baja and is expected to move NW and weaken to a Tropical Storm before Friday staying over 1200 miles to our NE. She built 40’ seas and will send off some of that High surf advsry East swell Thursday-Saturday. The main feature will be the long periods which refract and shoal off the ocean floor much more than the typical 8-10 sec windswell we usually ride. Watch for spots to break with more power and current.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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