Wednesday, September 17, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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Tuesday is Game on for Mens Hurley Pro in 3-5' Trestles! Surf News Network, 16 Sept. The Hurley Pro at Trestles, stop no. 8 of 11 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour, has been called ON today for Round 2 followed by possible Round 3 and in 4 - 6 foot waves. The Swatch Women's Pro Trestles is on standby for the day. "It's looking good this morning," said ASP Commissioner Kieren Perrow. "We saw the ocean fill in over night and there's a lot more consistency today. The waves are great when they come and we are definitely on".... Read the Full Story
The surf and ocean community come together... It is International Coastal Cleanup Day on Saturday so we are upping it up a notch and cleaning for the whole fricken weekend!   To keep it basic, details as follows:   Meet at Makua Beach, look for the blue flags Date: September 20th 9:30 AM Check in 10-12 Clean 12-3 Live Music, Games, Prizes, Keiki Activities (including a mermaid!), and more..... Read the Full Story
After all the surf we've had...lets say Thanks together. The Surfrider Foundation is dedicated to the protection and preservation of our world’s oceans, waves and beaches. Founded in 1984 by a handful of visionary surfers, the Surfrider Foundation now maintains over 50,000 members and 63 chapters across the country and around the world. The Oahu Chapter has been working on issues of beach access, water quality, coastal preservation and plastic marine debris. For more information, go towww.surfrider.org/oahu..... Read the Full Story
Don't miss this special engagement: EDDIE WEN’ GO The Story of the Upside Down Canoe! Eddie Would Go! Sept 19-20th and Coinciding with Hōkūleʻa’s round-the-world voyage, this imaginative production uses hula, chant, masks and puppetry to tell of Eddie Aikau’s act of sacrifice through the eyes of sea creatures who watched from underneath the upside-down canoe. Slack key guitar wunderkind Danny Carvalho, has created an original sound scape and will perform it live...Dont miss this special tribute to our Hawaiian Legend: Eddie Aikau. Read the Full Story
Goodbye ASP - Hello World Surf League   The Association of Surfing Professionals is no longer. Well, the name is no longer, at least. Beginning in 2015, the new moniker of the association of surfing professionals is the World Surf League, or WSL. In a letter to the surfing community, ASP/WSL CEO Paul Speaker broke the news. “We understand that for many of you reading this, the letters “ASP” have significant meaning and that this news might be unsettling,” he wrote. “We hope you will give us the benefit of the doubt and that, over time, you will come to see this change as positive for the sport we all love. At the end of the day, professional surfing’s DNA remains intact: we’re about the world’s best surfers in the world’s best waves. That will never change.” Read the Full Story
Next stop on the Stand Up World Tour starts tomorrow in Huntington Beach   The 2014 Huntington Beach Pro Grand Slam will host both Stand Up World Tour Surfing and Stand Up World Series Racing events from the 15th – 21st September in Surf City USA. As the most comprehensive event featuring a star studded line up of the world’s very best athletes, the $45,000 Huntington Beach Pro will be a true showcase of the leading edge of the sport, while celebrating Amateur and youth participation with a large Trials event and Open Racing division, not to mention the Na Kama Kai Youth Challenge (U16) taking place on the final Sunday of the event. Read the Full Story
LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Big SSW fills Saturday peaks Sunday and last into Tuesday. WNW fill to 3' sunday and 4' by Monday BIG SURF PICTURE  9/13/14 Saturday SPAC: The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.   Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below... Read the Full Story
Team Jamie's win the Qiantang Shoot Out
Finals Go off on the Largest Wave in the Event’s History Team Honolulu of Jamie O’Brien and Jamie Sterling took home the $10,000.00 team first prize in the largest “river bore” wave in the Red Bull Qiantang Surfing Shoot Out history with wave sections reaching ten feet.
Read the Full Story
Upsets at Hurley & Swatch Pro this week! Photo: Costa Rican hero Carlos Munoz © ASP/Rowland. Surf News Network, 11 September, 2014 - Wildcards delivered major upsets in the Hurley Pro at Trestles today as Tanner Gudauskas (USA) and Carlos Munoz (CRI) successively defeated top seeds Kelly Slater (USA) and Gabriel Medina (BRA) in non-elimination Round 1. The Swatch Women’s Pro Trestles was equally electric with Lakey Peterson (USA) eliminating reigning two-time ASP Women’s World Champion Carissa Moore (HAW), who will now relinquish her world ratings lead. The women’s Quarterfinalists have been decided after the completion of Round 4.... Read the Full Story
Catching up with Nathan Florence We’re going to get to know the Florence family real well over the next five years, this cute and deadly band of Hawaiian surf bums comprising three brothers (John, 20, Nathan, 19, Ivan 17) and a skating-surfing super mom, Alex. You know all about John, yeah? Raised on the sand, towed into his first Pipe bombs by Herbie Fletch (pops of Christian and Nathan and grand-daddy to Greyson) when he was seven, currently the owner of the finest contract in surfing, Kelly Slater aside. Read the Full Story
Hurley Pro action LIVE at Lowers Thursday John John Florence Man Hack Warm Up © ASP/Rowland. New SSW swell filling in throughout the day. It's currently about 3-4' and lined up. Chance of onshores. Surf News Network, 11 September, 2014: The Hurley Pro at Trestles, stop no. 8 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour, has been called ON for Round 1 in clean 3-to-5 foot waves. Competition will begin at 8:00 a.m. local time (PDT) with men's Round 1. Round 4 of the Swatch Women's Pro Trestles is on standby.... Read the Full Story
Some ground breaking action as Swatch Women's Pro kicks off Stephanie Gilmore © ASP/Rowlan. Surf News Network, 9 September, 2014: Australian Stephanie Gilmore proved today that the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP Women’s World Title race is far from over with a blazing performance in the first ever women’s WCT event at Lower Trestles. The Swatch Women’s Pro Trestles, stop no. 7 of 10 for the 2014 season, got underway in exceptional 3 to 5 foot waves and ran through Rounds 1, 2 and 3.... Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of Leahi Health Beverages

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Tuesday Sept 16th 630am Update

More cloudy but still calm to light Trades giving way to 11am lite convective onshore seabreezes with more cloud build up into the afternoon. This pattern is set into Saturday. 1.8' High tide at 11am dropping out to a 0.5' Low tide at 630pm.

High Surf advsry for all southern exposures. The epic swell has eased another notch but still good. Buoys are 4' 15 seconds. Inconsistent.

NORTH: Down and dropping on the 10  second NNW. It's 1-2 and trying to get to 3' now at Sunset and Rocky Pts and at Chuns; Pipe only 1-2'; everywhere's smooth & lite offshore for now with lite offshores then seabreezes near midday;  See SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is down and dropping on the SSW and NW; currently at 2-3 maybe a plus but long lulls and & smooth-glassy; expect it to mush out with isolated seabreezes late morning to afternoon. Town:  Down and dropping on the 15 sec period S-SSW swell at 2-4 occ 5' but loooong waits for top spots top sets.  Waters perfect with glass to lite offshores at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos and again seabreeze later around 11am. Surfers sitting inside the Ala Moana buoy now (check our Bowls-Courts CAM). Diamond Head: Down and dropping on the  S-SSW at 2-4+' with superb glass to offshores but likely onshores 11am ish then to the evening glass off. (see SNN Cam). Sandy's: Down and dropping on the South at a nice clean 2-4 occ +';  all over, plus generals and heavy shorepound.  East: Makapu'u:  Up just a pinch and Holding the small below normal NE and S wrap 0-1.5' maybe a rare 2' set near the shore and semi smooth lite onshores. Great diving all windward.

Events, News etc.

Dont miss 'Eddie Wen Go' The story of the upsidedown canoe. (Eddie Aikau) at Hawaii Theater this Friday nite! Eddie Would Go....so....GO HERE

Likely to go and finish Tuesday-Thursday on the same building SSW that we have. The 8th stop on the  ASP World Tour: The Hurley Pro at Trestles this Tuesday Sept 9-20th. GO LIVE

Quote of the week "Nothing I do out there is really conscious...it just kinda happens and I go with it" John John at Trestles.

SNN BIG Picture updated Friday 9/6 Go Here

Local Swell Tracker updated Go Here

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

Sandys looks pretty but dont be deceived; this isnt a big set. Heavy power from Sunday. Be careful. Someone lost their life yesterday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Tue '09/16'
Rising - N-NW
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
mostly clear, smooth
Wed '09/17'
Holding - N-NW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
Thu '09/18'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
Fri '09/19'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Sat '09/20'
Dropping - N-NW
HAW: 0-1
FACE: 0-1.5
Haleiwa
Tue '09/16'
Time
Ht.
L 1:14 AM 0.3 ft.
H 10:02 AM 1.5 ft.
L 4:33 PM 0.4 ft.
H 10:35 PM 0.7 ft.
Sunrise: 6:18 AM
Sunset: 6:32 PM
Wed '09/17'
Time
Ht.
L 2:34 AM 0.4 ft.
H 11:01 AM 1.5 ft.
L 5:15 PM 0.3 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:31 PM
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 11:35 PM 0.8 ft.
L 3:43 AM 0.3 ft.
H 11:49 AM 1.5 ft.
L 5:46 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 12:18 AM 0.9 ft.
L 4:38 AM 0.3 ft.
H 12:29 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:11 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM
Sat '09/20'
Time
Ht.
H 12:53 AM 1 ft.
L 5:24 AM 0.3 ft.
H 1:02 PM 1.5 ft.
L 6:34 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:28 PM

West
Dropping Slowly - COMBO
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
partly clear, glass
Holding - COMBO
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Dropping - COMBO
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2

South
Dropping Slowly - S
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
partly clear, smooth
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
3.5' 14 sec
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
2.5' 13 sec
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3
Honolulu Harbor
Tue '09/16'
Time
Ht.
L 3:19 AM 0.4 ft.
H 11:04 AM 1.8 ft.
L 6:38 PM 0.5 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:18 AM
Sunset: 6:32 PM
Wed '09/17'
Time
Ht.
H 11:37 PM 0.9 ft.
L 4:39 AM 0.5 ft.
H 12:03 PM 1.8 ft.
L 7:20 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:31 PM
Thu '09/18'
Time
Ht.
H 12:37 AM 1 ft.
L 5:48 AM 0.4 ft.
H 12:51 PM 1.9 ft.
L 7:51 PM 0.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:30 PM
Fri '09/19'
Time
Ht.
H 1:20 AM 1.1 ft.
L 6:43 AM 0.4 ft.
H 1:31 PM 1.9 ft.
L 8:16 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:29 PM
Sat '09/20'
Time
Ht.
H 1:55 AM 1.2 ft.
L 7:29 AM 0.3 ft.
H 2:04 PM 1.9 ft.
L 8:39 PM 0.3 ft.
Sunrise: 6:19 AM
Sunset: 6:28 PM

East
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
cloudy, smooth
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
Rising Later - E-NE
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 1-2
FACE: 1-3

Winds
Hawaii
Tue '09/16'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Wed '09/17'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
Trade flow to onshore seabreeze
Thu '09/18'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Fri '09/19'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Sat '09/20'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes

Current Swells

Tue '09/16'
Primary : S-SW / Dropping , 3-5' isolated
Secondary : NW / Dropping , 1-2 barely occ 3'
Third : NE / Holding , 0-2'

Marine Warnings

Tue '09/16'
Hawaii : High surf advsry for all South shores; Extreme UV ratings pack the BullFrog.

Sailing Report

Tue '09/16'
Hawaii : Fair early and improving with Light trades filling to good 5-15' with a mix of Leeward seabreezes late morning.

Diving Report

Tue '09/16'
Hawaii : Best is out East; fair/good for deeper north dives; fair out for deep west, poor/fair for deep south....due to big South swell.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Pipeline NW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Rocky Point NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Oahu - Haleiwa NW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Oahu - Makaha COMBO 1- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Knee to Head occ. + Light Trades smooth am...mushy pm some Plus sets other reefs

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good to excellent some Plus sets

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 2- to 3-feet, occ. larger sets Waist to Head occ. + Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 2- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Waist to Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades good to excellent

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Oahu - Makapuu E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades smooth

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 2- to 3-feet, occ. 4 feet Waist to Head occ. 1-2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - East - Hana E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades fair to good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei W-NW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 2- to 4-feet Waist to 2 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades bumpy

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast COMBO Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades fair to good

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 3- to 5-feet Shoulder to 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast E-NE Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades good

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 2- to 4-feet, occ. 5 feet Waist to Overhead occ. 3-4 ft. Overhead Light Trades good

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Sep 16, 2014 3:38 AM HST

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
High surf advisory until 6 pm HST this evening for south facing shores of all islands.

Synopsis
Muggy conditions will continue through the rest of this week. Gentle trade winds will prevail today through Wednesday, but will still allow for localized afternoon sea breezes and interior clouds and showers. The trades are forecast to break down again Thursday into the weekend, leading to more widespread sea breezes along with afternoon clouds and showers.

Discussion
Scattered showers have developed across the windward coastal waters and around the Big Island during the last several hours, with shower motions and 88D VWP data indicating that gentle trade winds are becoming established once again across the state. Most land areas have remained dry since sunset, with rain gauge data showing just isolated very light amounts. Surface analysis depicts low pressure centered far northeast of the state, with a trailing cold front/trough extending SW to the southern end of the Big Island. Mimic-tpw imagery also clearly shows a stripe of higher precipitable water values along the front/trough, although the mimic estimated values are running a bit high compared to the measured 12Z Hilo pwat of 1.57 inches. A drier airmass continues to spread into the state from the north behind the trough, as shown by the 12Z Lihue sounding with a measured pwat of only 1.15 inches, which is down from 1.77 inches 24 hours ago and below the 25th percentile for this time of year. Another area of somewhat higher moisture is moving southward toward the state, with the leading edge of this moisture about 200 miles north of Kauai as of 11Z. A 1024 mb surface high centered far northwest of the state is building eastward behind the front/trough, allowing the gentle trades to resume over the islands. Aloft, a weak upper level trough lies across the state, with a large deep layered anticyclone centered well to our northwest, just to the east of the dateline.

Surface high pressure will build slowly eastward to the north of the state today through Wednesday, maintaining a gentle but definite background trade wind flow. Trades should remain light enough to allow localized sea breezes to develop each afternoon. Therefore we would expect a hybrid pattern, with showers and clouds focusing on windward slopes during the nights and early mornings, and across some of the leeward and interior areas during the afternoons. The area of higher moisture initially to our north is forecast to brush across at least the western half of the state late tonight into Wednesday. This may help to enhance shower activity a bit in that area. A rather dry airmass is forecast to spread across the Big Island later today through Wednesday, so showers should be less prevalent there with rainfall amounts remaining light. With ocean waters to the north of the state significantly warmer than normal, rather muggy conditions are likely to continue despite the prevailing trade wind flow.

From Thursday into the weekend, another cold front is forecast to drop southward across the north central Pacific. This will likely push the subtropical ridge south and east, disrupting the pressure gradient across the state. Local trade wind flow should weaken further or disappear entirely during this time, allowing for another period of more widespread daytime sea breezes and nighttime land breezes. With more of a pure convective pattern, we should see more prevalent interior clouds and showers during each afternoon, and more clearing across the islands each night. Model consensus eventually stalls the frontal boundary a couple hundred miles north of the state by the end of the weekend and into early next week, with gentle trade winds possibly resuming over the islands by Sunday or Monday.

Marine
A high surf advisory remains in effect for south facing shores of all islands through 6 pm today. Surf reports reached high-end advisory levels at many beaches on Monday. Wave heights at the Barbers Point buoy continue to run slightly above wavewatch guidance currently, but peak swell periods are gradually decreasing. Would expect that the resulting surf will remain above advisory criteria at least through today. Will let the day shift evaluate later trends and the surf observations to see if the advisory may need to be extended beyond today. Otherwise, a small northwest swell appears to be near its peak now as indicated by Waimea bay buoy data and wavewatch guidance. This swell will diminish later today, but another couple of small north northwest swells are expected to arrive today and late tonight into Wednesday. Resulting surf should remain well below advisory levels on north and west facing shores.

With either light/gentle trades or a land/sea breeze pattern forecast to prevail through the remainder of this week and into the weekend, winds and seas are expected to remain below small craft advisory levels.

BIG SURF PICTURE 

9/13/14 Saturday

SPAC:

The Jet down under has gone into ‘shutdown’ mode after a large trough last week generated what we’ve been claiming since 2 Friday’s ago…the year’s biggest SSW to south swell. Summer can’t last forever. After this long lasting event we’ll have to hope and pray.

Recent: We’ve been on the down trend to 2’ after a super long run of fun South swells that reached peak hts of 5’ at select reefs but mostly sets averaged 3’ from early Sept to Tuesday the 9th. Last weekend into early last week had a pair of swells from a pair of storms down under. We haven’t counted but since Aug to now there have been at least 8 sources of swell. The last of which will top it all off. Read below.

Next: Last Sunday a powerful Low tracked ENE under NZL with near hurricane force 65kt winds and seas near 50- 60’! The storm broadened further off the coast as the highest winds and seas weakened. But not before setting up a 1200 miles fetch. When storm have such extreme winds they generate long periods as we’ve seen since Friday: long fat 25 seconds leveling off to 22 sec Saturday and 20 sec Sunday. The swell hts will go from 1’ to 4’ and even 12 hours of 5’ 20 seconds. There will be moments at select reefs of warning level hts of 15’ crest to trough or 8’ local. The North shore can get 10’ from such values as the long periods have extreme refraction and shoaling off the bottom. Note: 20 sec period swell can be felt 1000’ down! This shows us how vital periods are to wave measurement.

Last: No sources of swell over 2’ out through next weekend meaning 2 weeks from now. There are marginal fetches in the Taz Monday 15th and another tiny Low off NZL Friday the 19th. Neither source may get here.

Note: High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough and 15’ for NW swells. Why the large threshold difference is likely an extra safety precaution where populations are greatest.

NPAC

The weak Jet is long and up around 40-50 degrees latitude. There’s some troughs and dips and by next weekend the Jet has a bit more speed and energy going from Japan to the Gulf. We are still in a state of transition.

Currently: the surf is barely 2’ remnants from our 1st real swell of the season that hit near 8’ Tuesday.

Recent: this nice WNW filled late Monday to 6’ and ramped Tuesday from a more NW angle. Source: Storminess Friday the 5th just east of the 180 dateline 1200 miles NW of us. By Saturday she had 30’ seas on the dateline and spun in place (occluded) as she broadened and weakened into Sunday…The result was swell of 5’ 14 seconds.

Next: Former tropical storm Fengshen will bump us up Sunday from the 15 sec WNW at 2-3’ midday and veer NW peaking at 4’ Monday into Tuesday with shorter 12 seconds. The system formed off Taiwan last Sunday the 7th and moved NNE as it broadened and weakend off Japan becoming a cold core Low off the tropics warm core. It then tracked East reaching the dateline Thursday the 11th as it merged and faded with a broad area of Low pressure centered in the Eastern Aleutians.

Last: A tiny weak low tracks east from the dateline this Wednesday and will only pull off some 2’ NW surf Tuesday the 23rd.

Windward side:

Recently and until Friday we’ve see tiny 1’ surf from the light local trades and seabreeze patterns; rare to see it this small this long. Then it’ll kick up from some T Storm action below.

Tropics: T Storm Odile has come into view today Sat. with a NW track and clipping Cabo etc Monday-Tuesday. By Thursday it’s nearly gone but still may shoot out some longer period 3’ East swell around Friday-Saturday the 19-20th.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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