Friday, August 29, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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on 7/11. on 8/21
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LOCAL SWELL TRACKER: Tons of SSW swell in the forecast starting Thursday. East side ramps up big time Thursday-Saturday. BIG SURF PICTURE  8/26/14 SPAC: The Jet down under has been dominant with equatorial bound (ENE) flows leading to plenty surf, but the last few days its been zonal (west to east) with 2 branches staying the same most this week. By Thursday/Friday there’s another ENE tilt which will enhance a big storm but it'll be sending much of the energy off to our east since the equatorbound flow is far off NZL to under French Polynesia. Read the Full Story
'Endless Summer' movie inspires Hawaii surfing-centered resort. The Honolulu investors who are redeveloping the iconic Coco Palms Resort on Kauai plan to develop a 400-unit resort in West Oahu centered around a four-acre surfing wave pool that will be themed after the iconic surfing movie " The Endless Summer," the Greene Waters Group of Bridge Real Estate told PBN on Sunday. Principals Chad Waters and Tyler Greene have partnered with Bruce Brown Films and licensed the rights to the 1960s popular surfing movie to launch Surf City Hui LLC, the ownership entity for the concept resort that will be called The Endless Summer Resort.... Read the Full Story
Medina beats Slater at Teahupo'o in what many claim to be the best ASP contest ever. Amazing final day of Billabong Pro Tahiti drops jaws Surf News Network, 25 August, 2014: Teahupo'o, Tahiti - The world’s best surfers put everything on the line as they battled the world’s most dangerous wave for an historic Finals day at the Billabong Pro Tahiti, stop no. 7 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT). The Final Day's 12-man field took on perilous conditions and monster 12-to-15 foot barreling waves, the biggest of the season, in pursuit of victory. It was Gabriel Medina (BRA) who came out on top to claim the coveted title of Billabong Pro Tahiti Champion after an unbelievable day of competition and what is being dubbed the best WCT contest in history.... Read the Full Story
This will be the hottest surfing debate of the year... SafeSurfHawaii is a group of surfers, bodyboarders and bodysurfers who believe that the time has come for the DLNR to adopt rules that will ensure that Hawaii's surf zones are safe and enjoyable for all waveriders. The increasing presence of Stand Up Paddleboard ("SUP") users in Hawaii's surfzones has created both safety and fair access problems for surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers. The time has come for the DLNR to adopt rules regulating the use of SUPs in surf zones (or at least to try a pilot project in a limited area offshore from Ala Moana Beachpark ... i.e. the Safe Surfzones Pilot Project)... Read the Full Story
Kai Sallas claims ASP 1-Star LQS event at Dukes OceanFest Surf News Network, 22 August, The gods sent the surf for the Duke's OceanFest on Thursday for the finals of the Association of Surfing Professionals one star long boarding contest. A stand out in the competition was Maui Zane who is originally from Maui but lives and works in Waikiki.... Read the Full Story
Gabriel Medina beats Kelly Slater to win his 3rd event. Sunday's post: Perfect 10s spike Billabong Pro Tahiti Round 3 photo: John John Florence © ASP / Will H-S Being called the best contest in ASP History. Perfection. Full story coming. Yesterday. Surf News Network, 24 August, Teahupo'o - The world’s best surfers returned to the world’s most dangerous wave for the recommencement of stop no. 7 on the 2014 Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour (WCT), the Billabong Pro Tahiti, this morning and the action reached a fever pitch as the original 36-person field was whittled down to the final 12... Read the Full Story
Billabong Pro Tahiti is 4-5' and rising. Round 3-4. Oceanic 250. Heat 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) loses to an in rythm Tiago Pires (PRT) Perennial World Title bridesmaid Taj Burrow, World No. 4, faced off against Tiago Pires, World No. 28 and the 2014 WCT wildcard. After a restart, Pires took the first wave at the horn, earning a solid 7.50 and putting Burrow on the defense. Burrow answered back with a solid drop, but it earned him a 6.17, keeping him in a defensive role. Throughout the heat Pires continued to grab wave after wave, scoring an 8.00 on one ride, and topping it with a 9.00. The scores put him well ahead of his veteran opponent, with a 17.00 to Burrow's combined 6.54 at the halfway mark. A 25th puts Taj at a bad spot for a world title this year. Read the Full Story
Duke's OceanFest rolls with lifeguards & longboards & much more! photo & story from SNN Team mate Betty Depolito Aloha Surf Lifesaving Team Wins Lifeguard Challenge from Wednesday before the SSW hit.
20 August- Thursday at the 13th Annual Duke's OceanFest the ASP Pro long boarders hit the water at Queens Surf Break for the one star Association of Surfing Professionals event. Surf was a tricky 1-2 feet with inconsistent sets durning the 20 minute round one heats. The round shuffled the competitors for their quarter final bouts, August 21st...
Read the Full Story
Teahupoo tops the list as one of surfings deadliest spots Allow us to preface this article with this: Surfing is not a particularly dangerous sport. You’re much more likely to die on the freeway than while pursuing the passion of wave riding. That said, tragedy strikes the tight-knit surf community more often than we would like, and there are a handful of surf spots where dying is more likely than at others. Regardless, surfers flock to these deadly waves in droves. It’s the rush, the danger, and the sheer joy one gets from flying down the face of an incredibly large mountain of water that keep us coming back for more despite the odds—albeit minuscule—of that being that fateful last ride. Read the Full Story
Surf's rising all day! Go Live to the Dukes OceanFest! Waves are coming up and up for the competitors. Watch for Friday to be peaking and much more consistent. Thursday we get the Wahines and Kanes Pro Am, The ITSA pro, The Papa He'e Nalu Alaia contest, The Dukes Expo, and tonight the Watermans Hall of Fame Awards Dinner at Outrigger. Read the Full Story
FREE CONCERT - Ron Artis II - Saturday August 23rd This great event is all to benefit Hawaii's Lifeguard & Water Safety Fund, a 501(c)3 whose mission is to provide ocean awareness & coastline sustainability education for kids. Finish your summer with the best dang swim & run race on Oahu. The Inaugural Turtle Bay Biathlon is an athletes dreamcourse. Fast, fun, varied, and beautiful....plus there's beer after!! SIGN UP TODAY! or at the event! It's good for your kids, community and your body! Read the Full Story
VICE Sports today presents the latest from its series Sitdowns, featuring Kelly Slater. The world title surfer chats candidly about the grudge match between east and west coast surfers, his short-lived stint on Baywatch as Jimmy Slade, and his contentious friendship with the late surfer Andy Irons. Kelly Slater has ruled the surfing world for over a "2 decades" (correction by SNN), earning the title of ASP World Tour Champion a record 11 times. In the latest episode of Sitdowns, the professional surfer stopped by the VICE Sports office to show off some home footage of his early days, reveal the embarrassment behind his short-lived television stint on Baywatch, and open up about his friendship and rivalry with the late Andy Irons. In Sitdowns, VICE Sports chats with athletes about just about anything.... Read the Full Story
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Waves, Winds, Weather compliments of Leahi Health Beverages

Your exclusive SNN Obs for this Thursday Aug. 28th  3pm special update

High Surf Advsry's posted for all S and E shores in advance of a big surf.

50% sun/clouds with ENE trades 10-20 winning out over seabreezes.  Had the 1.5' High tide @ 6am dropped out to a .4' Low tide @ 1130am pushing up the rest of the day to 1.6' at 530pm.

NORTH: Up and Rising on Tiny background 0-1.5' NE wrap and bigger late today on ENE wrap to 3' for select reefs; it's clear and offshore ENE trades; best for diving, paddling, swimming etc. See SNN Laniakea and Chuns cams. West: Makaha is up and rising esp later on the new SSW at 1-2 occ 3' average with higher ones this evening for other western reefs & decent conditions. Town: Up and rising on the 15 second SSW at 2-3' mostly with isolated almost 4' sets etc at Ala Moana, Kaisers, Kewalos (check our Bowls-Courts CAM); super clean ENE offshores;.  Diamond Head: Up and rising on the new SSW at 2-3' mostly (chest) solid 4' surf with nice lines and so far it's good sideoffshore ENE trades at 10-20 (see SNN Cam). Sandy's: Up and rising esp later on the SSW and  E wrap at a good clean 2-3+' and plenty barrels and breaking all over.  East: Makapu'u:  Up a notch and rising all day from the EAst swell the slightly bumpy 2-4' and bigger soon on on the longer period 15 second East (Hurrincane Marie). Waves outside now on the left to the middle mostly and a bit smaller at Keiki's...10-20 mph ENE trades.

SNN BIG Picture updated Monday 8/26 HERE

Events, News etc.

Long time NS fixture and committed surfer, Stormin' Normin passed away yesterday from cancer. Our Thoughts and Prayers go out to his Family and Friends.

Gabriel Medina beats Slater to win his 3rd event of the year and extend his ratings lead. A good chance this will be his year. ASP stop #6: The Billabong Tahiti Pro will go down as one of the best events in ASP History. GO HERE

Quote of the week:   "It was incredible. I've never seen anything like it and today will go down as one of the best days of surfing in my career, no question". Kelly Slater on the Billabong Pro Tahiti 8/25/14

See the SNN animations page for a fast glance at the Storms & Weather HERE

Sandys sliding...Wed 630am

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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Surf Report

Tides -

Surf

North
Thu '08/28'
Rising Later - E-NE
HAW: 0-1/2
FACE: 0-1
clear, smooth; seabreeze later
Fri '08/29'
Holding - E-NE
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
isolated focal spots
Sat '08/30'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 1-3+
FACE: 2-5+
isolated reefs
Sun '08/31'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Mon '09/01'
Dropping - E-NE
HAW: 0-2
FACE: 0-3
Haleiwa
Thu '08/28'
Time
Ht.
H 4:41 AM 1.2 ft.
L 9:28 AM 0.3 ft.
H 4:32 PM 1.3 ft.
L 9:54 PM 0.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:50 PM
Fri '08/29'
Time
Ht.
H 5:26 AM 1.3 ft.
L 10:19 AM 0.4 ft.
H 5:04 PM 1.1 ft.
L 10:26 PM 0.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:49 PM
Sat '08/30'
Time
Ht.
H 6:18 AM 1.3 ft.
L 11:24 AM 0.5 ft.
H 5:40 PM 1 ft.
---
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:48 PM
Sun '08/31'
Time
Ht.
L 11:03 PM 0.2 ft.
H 7:20 AM 1.3 ft.
L 12:51 PM 0.6 ft.
H 6:28 PM 0.8 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:47 PM
Mon '09/01'
Time
Ht.
L 11:50 PM 0.2 ft.
H 8:32 AM 1.4 ft.
L 2:39 PM 0.6 ft.
H 7:42 PM 0.7 ft.
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:46 PM

West
Rising - S-SW
HAW: 0-1.5
FACE: 0-2
clear, smooth; seabreeze later
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 2-4
FACE: 3-7
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
Dropping - S
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+

South
Rising - S-SW
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+
clear, smooth; seabreeze later
Holding - S-SW
HAW: 3-5
FACE: 5-9
above advsrys
Dropping - S-SW
HAW: 2-4+
FACE: 3-7+
Rising - S-SW
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
3' 16 sec event
Dropping - S
HAW: 2-3
FACE: 3-5
New 24 sec forerunners Tues South
Honolulu Harbor
Thu '08/28'
Time
Ht.
L 11:31 PM 0.2 ft.
H 5:43 AM 1.5 ft.
L 11:33 AM 0.4 ft.
H 5:34 PM 1.6 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:50 PM
Fri '08/29'
Time
Ht.
L 11:59 PM 0.2 ft.
H 6:28 AM 1.6 ft.
L 12:24 PM 0.6 ft.
H 6:06 PM 1.4 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:49 PM
Sat '08/30'
Time
Ht.
L 12:31 AM 0.2 ft.
H 7:20 AM 1.6 ft.
L 1:29 PM 0.7 ft.
H 6:42 PM 1.2 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:48 PM
Sun '08/31'
Time
Ht.
L 1:08 AM 0.2 ft.
H 8:22 AM 1.7 ft.
L 2:56 PM 0.7 ft.
H 7:30 PM 1.1 ft.
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 6:47 PM
Mon '09/01'
Time
Ht.
L 1:55 AM 0.2 ft.
H 9:34 AM 1.7 ft.
L 4:44 PM 0.7 ft.
H 8:44 PM 0.9 ft.
Sunrise: 6:15 AM
Sunset: 6:46 PM

East
Rising - E
HAW: 1-3
FACE: 2-5
clear, smooth; seabreeze later
Holding - E
HAW: 5-7
FACE: 6-12
above advsry levels
Dropping - E
HAW: 3-5
FACE: 5-9
Dropping - E
HAW: 2-3+
FACE: 3-5+
Dropping - E
HAW: 1-2+
FACE: 1-3+

Winds
Hawaii
Thu '08/28'
E-NE E-NE
Mph: 5-10
11am-4pm seabreezes
Fri '08/29'
E E
Mph: 5-10
11am-4pm seabreezes
Sat '08/30'
E E
Mph: 5-10
seabreezes 11a-4p
Sun '08/31'
E E
Mph: 5-10
11am seabreezes
Mon '09/01'
Light/Var
Mph: 5-10
east flow to 11am seabreezes

Current Swells

Thu '08/28'
Primary : E / Rising , 1-3'
Secondary : S-SW / Dropping , 1-2.5'
Third : S-SW / Rising , 2-4' Thursday afternoon

Marine Warnings

Thu '08/28'
Hawaii : None; extreme UV so bring da BullFrog!

Sailing Report

Thu '08/28'
Hawaii : new pattern of lite trades into Seabreeze convection. Poor-Fair w/ light AM ENE trades picking up the onshores mid morning.

Diving Report

Thu '08/28'
Hawaii : Real Good for all North and west and for east shores. Fair-good deep dives for the south side with moderate SSW swell. Better go early as rising surf for all S to E shores plus onshore seabreezes thru Monday.

Oahu

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Oahu - Sunset E-NE Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Pipeline E-NE Flat- to 1/2 foot 0 to Ankle Snappers Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Rocky Point E-NE Flat- to 1 foot 0 to Knee Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Haleiwa COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Oahu - Makaha S-SW Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades good

Oahu - Ala Moana S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Oahu - Waikiki S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Oahu - Diamond Head S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Oahu - Sandy Beach COMBO 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Oahu - Makapuu E 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Maui

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Maui - North-Hookipa area COMBO Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Maui - Upper West - Honolua COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades smooth

Maui - Lower West - Lahaina S-SW 1- to 2-feet Knee to Waist Light Trades good

Maui - South - Kihei S-SW Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades good

Maui - East - Hana E-NE 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades good

Kauai

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Kauai - North - Hanalei COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades smooth

Kauai - West - Majors COMBO Flat- to 1 1/2-feet 0 to Thigh Light Trades smooth

Kauai - South - Poipu S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Kauai - East - Kapaa E-NE 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Big Island

Spot Direction Height - Hawaiian Scale Height - Face Scale Winds Conditions Comments
Big Isl. - North - Hamakua Coast NE 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades fair to good

Big Isl. - North West - Kohala COMBO Flat 0 to Flat Light Trades diving , paddling and fishin'

Big Isl. - South West - Kona Coast S-SW 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Big Isl. - East - Hilo Coast NE 1- to 2-feet, occ. 3 feet Knee to Waist occ. Head Light Trades good

Big Isl. - SE to S Puna, Ka u Coasts COMBO 2- to 3-feet Waist to Head Light Trades fair to good

Sponsored by Hawaiian South Shore.

THE WHERE, WHEN & WHY OF HAWAII’S WAVES & WEATHER: A VIDEO PRESENTATION BY SNN

Winds Statewide in a glance ...go HERE (this link is also the 4th drop down under weather)

Aug 28, 2014 4:00 AM HST

Synopsis
Trade winds will slowly weaken today and remain light through the weekend, allowing afternoon sea breezes and nighttime land breezes to develop over leeward areas. Afternoon and evening clouds and showers will develop over leeward and interior areas, followed by nighttime clearing, while passing low clouds may affect the windward areas at times. Stronger trade winds may return next week.

Discussion
Trade winds continue over the islands early this morning as indicated by surface observations around the state as well as wind profiles from radar data. Radar and satellite data indicate there are some low clouds and showers in the island vicinity this morning, and some of these clouds are reaching the islands, bringing some showers to mainly windward and mountain areas. Early morning soundings from Lihue and Hilo continue to show a marginally stable air mass in the area. Trade winds are expected to hold over the island today, as a surface high pressure remains far north of the state. Passing low clouds and showers will affect mainly windward and mountain areas.

Winds are expected to slowly ease over the next few days as a low pressure system from the east Pacific passes north of the state. Winds will become light enough over the islands tonight to allow land breezes to develop. As such, the diverging land breezes will bring some clearing skies to the state overnight, though low clouds embedded in the light trade wind flow may still affect the windward areas at times. A more convective weather pattern is expected over the islands Friday and Saturday, with clouds and showers developing over the islands in the afternoon and early evening hours under the converging sea breezes, while some clearing may occur at night under the land breezes. Air mass is forecast to remain somewhat stable in the island vicinity as there will be upper level ridging. On the other hand, moisture associated with the passing low pressure system north of the state may bring more clouds and even showers to Maui county Friday night, reaching Oahu on Saturday, and spreading to Kauai late Saturday into Sunday.

The light trade wind scenario will last into early next week.as such, the islands may experience hybrid convective and trade wind weather for the rest of the holiday weekend, with low clouds and showers affecting windward areas at times, while the lee areas may see afternoon and evening clouds and some showers. Stronger trade winds may still return to the islands by the middle of next week, though the wind speeds will stay modest at best. If so, more typical trade wind weather will return to the islands as well.

Marine
Latest data from the near shore buoys just east of Oahu and north of Maui still showed no sign of the anticipated abnormally long-period swell from hurricane Marie early this morning. Still expect this swell to slowly reach the island waters later today, and will bring advisory level surf to east facing shores today through Friday. While surf heights are not expected to be exceptionally high, long period swell energy from the east is somewhat unusual, resulting in normally sheltered windward locales seeing larger long period waves and strong currents.

Latest readings from the near shore buoy just southwest Oahu indicated the south swell has arrived, though swell heights are a tad lower than expected at this time. Still believe this south swell will continue to build today, bringing advisory level surf along south facing shores through Friday. Strong currents will develop in some areas due the interaction between these two swells. The surf from both swells will slowly decline over the weekend.

As winds slowly diminish, no small craft wind conditions are expected through the holiday weekend. However, the long period easterly and southerly swell mentioned above could bring confused seas to areas exposed to both swells.

Watches/Warnings/Advisories
High surf advisory from 6 am today to 6 am HST Saturday for Niihau, Kauai windward, Kauai leeward, Oahu south shore, Waianae coast, Oahu Koolau, olomana, Molokai, Lanai makai, Kahoolawe, Maui windward west, Maui leeward west, Maui central valley, windward Haleakala, leeward Haleakala, Kona, south Big Island, Big Island north and east.

BIG SURF PICTURE 8/26/14

SPAC:

The Jet down under has been dominant with equatorial bound (ENE) flows leading to plenty surf, but the last few days its been zonal (west to east) with 2 branches staying the same most this week. By Thursday/Friday there’s another ENE tilt which will enhance a big storm but it'll be sending much of the energy off to our east since the equatorbound flow is far off NZL to under French Polynesia.

Recent: We’ve had nonstop surf for about 2 weeks; 2 Lows tracked SE of NZL Thursday 8/7 and these sources created surf the 1st weekend for the Dukes Oceanfest! Then a powerful Low a few days after with 55kts saw into our window SE of NZL hugging the East coast with a captured fetch. We got 18 sec forerunners Wed the 20th reaching 3’ 15 sec swells or 2-4+ SSW surf Thursday midday and the final Dukes weekend…one of the best weeks for the OceanFest in over 5 years.

Currently, we saw some 4’ sets from the SSW this past F-M from 2 sources: a gale 40kt storm east of NZL mid August. Her fetch head got to 3500 miles away which allowed for head high sets. Then a stronger system further SE of NZL with 47kts added more size over the weekend and into Monday. Some spots peaked 5’ over the weekend but these were special cases/spots. Things level off to head high Tuesday.

Next: Another compact Low SE of NZL tracked east again last Monday-Tuesday and will keep us at 3’ solid before a SSW swell arrives Wednesday.

Next: The Jet set up a long wave trough from Wednesday the 20th. We also saw a big High in the Taz which created solid winds in between the High spinning counter clockwise next to the Low spinning clockwise (opposite spins from the NPAC). This allowed a huge fetch area east of NZL last Thursday-Saturday. The head of the fetch got to within 3000 miles which is about 1000 miles closer than the usual. This means less ocean swell decay over distance and another round of advsry surf filling late Wednesday peaking Thursday into Saturday and even Sunday…High Surf threshold for South swell is 8’ crest to trough which is what typical surfers look for. The NS needs 15’ or twice the size which most surfers don’t look for. Why the large difference is likely extra safety precautions where populations are greatest.

Next: : Models backed down big time on their output a week ago for a new event early Sept. A broad gale Low far east of NZL reached near Tahiti last weekend. Now, it’s going to be 1-3’ South Sunday-Tuesday.

Last couple: Low confidence of models showing a big broad storm up off the Ross Ice Shelf Wed the 27th which fades fast and followed up fast by a much bigger Low Thursday. The issue is the ENE track but side band swell should hit 3 maybe 4’ with long periods Thursday sept 4-6th. Let’s take a better look this weekend.

NPAC

The weak Jet up North is continuing it’s summer position with poor potential for swell enhancement, and tho’ she’s elongated the winds are too light for anything. Most the deeper troughing occurs under the gulf toward the end of the 7 day forecast.

Recent: It’s been quite and average after the long run of Typhoon West swells and Hurricane N swells making Aug the best in memory. Reliable sources like Pat Kelly with over 40 years up there plus, a former NS Capt and SNN eye’s on the country claimed it.

Next: East wrap from hurricane Maria will send long 2-3’ 14-16 second periods producing surf up 4’ around Kahuku and less to select spots toward Haleiwa starting Thursday and into the weekend.

Next: nothing is on the models out over 10 days.

Windward side:

Recently, small 2’ East swell have been dominant but that’s increasing today from 2 Tropical systems:  Lowell and Karina off Baja and weakening. Then it goes up big time with a rare push of 14- 17 second East surf from Cat 5 Hurricane Maria tracking ENE off of Baja (see below). Surf on the windward spots will reach as high as 7’ local scale. We also have two 1030mb High up beyond 40 north or 1200-1500 miles away keeping us in the typical trade wind pattern. So after this upcoming run its back to normal by next Wednesday.

Tropics: Cat 5 Hurricane Maria built this past weekend SSW of Baja and is expected to move NW and weaken to a Tropical Storm before Friday staying over 1200 miles to our NE. She built 40’ seas and will send off some of that High surf advsry East swell Thursday-Saturday. The main feature will be the long periods which refract and shoal off the ocean floor much more than the typical 8-10 sec windswell we usually ride. Watch for spots to break with more power and current.

 

FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link  http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
LocationAdvisoryWarning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
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