Monday, September 22, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
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This Wednesday evening at Surfer the Bar: Talk Story Series ftg. Kimo Hollinger | Hosted by Jodi Wilmott

This Wednesday evening at Surfer the Bar: Talk Story Series ftg. Kimo Hollinger | Hosted by Jodi Wilmott
Doors 6p , Show 8p | $5 requested for charity
Kimo Hollinger graced many of the North Shore’s most memorable sessions in elite company during big wave riding’s burgeoning era. In the mid-70s, after a near-fatal session at huge Waimea, he turned his back on big wave riding forever. A deep-thinking Hawaiian whose insightful observations have been published by SURFER magazine and Surfer’s Journal, his contributions to surf culture persist to this day – though rarely this publicly. Kimo’s story will take you far beyond the waves and deep into the life of a true and thoughtful Hawaiian. Hit up the line up at  Surfer the Bar HERE

Found this short story I wrote on December 21st , 2005 Thought it would be an interesting read for some... This is back from the days when I was still shaping only prototypes but still riding my 12' Munoz with a short paddle from my knees on the juicier days... Seems so long ago! For those who don't know, Kimo Hollinger is a legendary Hawaiian surfing big wave pioneer. I wrote this in a site dedicated to board building..... Aloha, Blane

Cool Story from Blane Chambers...

As some of you already know I'm really into the longer boards lately..... Here's a quick, true story that I honestly think is one way to a long surfing life due to the big board design.....

This past summer I started surfing again everyday I could.... One day I saw legendary big wave rider Kimo Hollinger out at Laniakea on a 3-4' day. I've always respected Kimo for his bravery in large surf. He was always someone I looked up to growing up here on the North Shore. He was riding what appeared to be an 11' board..... He sat outside everyone and waited for the bigger sets... The thing that struck me as very cool was the fact that Kimo is in his 60's. Maybe even late 60's. He got so many great waves I couldn't help but think to myself that I hope I can surf like him when I'm in my 60's. This same scenario went on all the way into the winter at Laniakea.....

Last Friday morning Haleiwa was firing at Hawaiian size 8-10' which is roughly 15 to 20' faces. Anyone who knows Haleiwa will confirm at this size it is very HEAVY! It was flawless on some and some waves were down right mean. As I'm taking my time checking it out I see someone take off on a set wave from as far out as possible. I'm talking way out on the corner. It was Kimo! 60 something years old and just flying across a Haleiwa wall all the way to the toilet bowl!!! I can't begin to tell you how unreal that is!!!!

I paddled out on my 12' Munoz with the canoe paddle and joined him on the outside corner. We were outside for awhile as the current was ripping.... More I thought how hairy this was as you had to constanly paddle to stay in position. He and I along with Hawaiian were the farthest guys out. Another big set came through and there went Kimo again. Just charging a mean looking big one! I was blown away. It was no small day......

I paddled over to get a few big perfect ones at Puena Pt then came back to Haleiwa in about an hour. By then Kimo had gone in. Awhile later I was in position for a big corner set where I had taken over Kimo's spot. A big west set wave came right to me. I stroked hard with my canoe paddle and stood up on a beautiful big wall. I made the drop which Hawaiian later told me he thought I was gonna eat it! I went sideways down the drop and quickly slammed the paddle into the face to stay in control.... It was just heaving but open as I leaned hard on my paddle through the huge sections.... I remember just flying across that wave thinking stay open, stay open!! I made it in without eating it and loaded my board into my truck.... It was by far the best wave I have ever caught at Haleiwa on a longboard or shortboard.

After rinsing off I walked over to the blue tent which Hawaiian sets up everyday. A group of surfers were underneath and there was Kimo looking at me and clapping his hands. At first I didn't think anything of it but as I got closer he was looking me straight in the eye and I could see he was acknowledging the set wave I had just rode in.... He reached out, shook my hand then told me what a awesome ride that was especially with a canoe paddle and he was stoked for me! I told him about all the big ones I saw him on and he was brimming with stoke on our good fortunes to be blessed with such good big waves.... After chatting awhile he thanked everyone there for a great day of surfing.....

I'll remember this day the rest of my life. The day I saw Kimo Hollinger connecting huge sections at big Haleiwa as what society would call an elderly man, a senior citizen. There was nothing senior about it folks! Especially when you consider how many young guys didn't even paddle out but opted to watch. I'll also remember it as the day I expanded my own wave horizons at Haleiwa. The day I caught my first real challenging wave with a 12 foot board and canoe paddle. The day Kimo Hollinger made me feel I had accomplished something special.... I'm still feeling the stoke as I gear up for the next chapter of big board canoe paddle surfing. I hope to see Kimo again and again in the future......

I have no doubt that the big board design allows you to paddle fast and its what keeps guys like Kimo surfing to this day. The future with all the push towards the new materials are allowing boards to be lighter so we can actually turn and really ride these extra large vehicles. Maybe into our 70's? Maybe, maybe......

Blane Chambers

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