The forecast is good to say the least...check the video presentation of the Local Swell Tracker
the what when and why of our waves winds and weather
BIG SURF PICTURETuesday 1/24/12
NPAC: the Jet is set up in a winter pattern (low, consolidated and stretching past the dateline) allowing for storms to be enhanced and steered to longitudes near Hawaii; its also affecting our winds and weather patterns with a cycle between lite variables/Konas to regular Trades.
Currently...Late today Tuesday we'll see some double over head NW with 14 seconds peaking Wednesday to just below advsry level 5-7’ NW from a severe gale that spawned our side of the dateline just 1000 miles away Sunday/Monday and tracking quickly ENE into Alaska as it intensifies.
Next: The intensification of the last Low leads to More 4’ N swell is expected Friday 1/27-28; its a gale (35-40kt) fetch created by the aforementioned low as it move into the gulf; the storm’s winds pointing our way in the 350-360 band for a day.
Next: An upgraded severe gale Storm far off Japan spawns Wednesday 1/25 tracking east with a captured fetch (read below) Wed-Thursday; it crosses the dateline 1200 miles to the west by Thursday with some 35' seas and will bump us up to 8-12’ solid from the NW this Saturday; with Trades returning Friday conditions will be perfect.
Last: Another major Upgrade on pair of Lows appear near the dateline Friday/Sunday with an east then ENE track up into the east Aleutians thru Sunday. They merge and grow to a huge severe gale surface Low with 35' seas with weather filling much of the WPAC as it goes east; this leads to large 8-12 occas. 15' sets on the outer reefs with 20 sec forerunners early Monday 1/30; the angle is' WNW peaking Monday and lasting over 10' Tuesday the last day of the month. Beautiful finish to twenty twleve's 1st month.
There's more a few days after this and the NPAC winter wave machine works its magic.
SPAC: We have background SSW at 2' but had some higher sets Monday! It came from a fast ESE tracking severe gale low far below NZL around 1/16. Another similar ‘iffy’ 2’ SSW with 12-14 seconds may get here at the end of the month from a weak gale off the NZL coast Sunday 1/22. The winds are barely strong enough to make waves 4000 miles away. Swell periods however are relatively a conservative quantity allowing for little decay over distance.
East or Windward: We have 3' N wrap to best exposures. Our 2 windswell and trades are outta here till Friday when trades return. We do get some N-NNE swell of maybe 3 or 4' this week to isolated reefs. The rotating pattern between trades and Konas or Variables will continue with the nearby tracking Lows. Such winter patterns mean occas. N swells to wrap in with the off and on wind swell. Ranges should remain in the 2-4’ range. Read daily OB’s or call 596-SURF.