One of Surfing most Iconic Legends will be this Friday. We’ll be celebrating the collaboration between Noll Surfboards and Billabong Clothing with free autographed posters and prizes.Meet big wave surfing pioneer Greg Noll at HIC Ala Moana Center this Friday, 6:30 to 8 pm. HIC Website go HERE
There will be free autograph posters and raffle prizes, and a chance to talk story with Da Bull himself.
Presented by Billabong in celebration of their new product line collaboration with Noll Surfboards,
The Greg Noll X Billabong Collection. The line features nostalgic printed tees along with a modern, fun
twist on Noll’s classic Jail House striped boardshorts. Billabong has constructed a longer boardshort
made of Recycler Zero Gravity fabric, which combines modern function and comfort with the timeless
look of Noll’s original shorts. Billabong is offering these styles as a Limited Edition only, so you won’t
want to miss the chance to get them while you can.
Greg Noll, surfing legend who rode to fame among surf circles in the 50s and 60s, is known for pushing the limits of physics and the human body–on a grand scale. In his iconic, graphic striped surf shorts, he stared down fear, achieved the impossible and became a legend. In turn, he inspired a new generation of surfers to get in the water.
Noll became known for his exploits in large Hawaiian surf on the North Shore of Oahu. He first gained a reputation in November 1957 after surfing Waimea Bay in 25–30 ft surf when it had previously been thought impossible even to the local Hawaiians. He is perhaps best known for being the first surfer to ride a wave breaking on the outside reef at the so-called Banzai Pipeline in November 1964.
The wave I caught at Outside Pipeline that day walled up twenty-five-feet high about half a mile in front of me. It broke to the left, so I was riding with my back to the wave, goofyfoot, and it was a god-awful uneasy feeling. Instead of getting smaller as I rode it, the sonofabitch grew on me. It got bigger and bigger, and I started going faster and faster, until I was absolutely locked into it. I felt like I was on a spaceship racing into a void. At first, I could hear my board chattering across the face of the wave in a constant rhythm. As my speed increased, the chattering noise became less frequent. Suddenly there was no noise. For about fifteen or twenty feet, I was airborne. Then I literally was blown off my board.—Greg Noll, Da Bull: life over the edge
It was later at Makaha, in December 1969, that he rode what many at the time believed to be the largest wave ever surfed. After that wave and the ensuing wipeout during the course of that spectacular ride down the face of a massive dark wall of water, his surfing tapered off and he closed his Hermosa Beach shop in the early 1970s. He and other surfers such as Pat Curren, Mike Stang, Buzzy Trent, George Downing, Mickey Munoz, Wally Froyseth, Fred Van Dyke and Peter Cole are viewed as the most daring surfers of their generation.
Noll is readily identified in film footage while surfing by his now iconic black and white horizontally striped "jailhouse" boardshorts.
The surfing exploits of Noll and other big wave legends were chronicled in the documentary Riding Giants. Noll (with Laird Hamilton and Jeff Clark) also provides his entertaining perspective on Hawaiian big wave surfing that is indexed as a commentary track found in the Riding Giants DVD.
More from Wikipedia HERE
Legends of Surfing Website HERE