Friday, September 19, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
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A video recap of the epic surf at Peahi last week


October 9th & 10th saw the first real winter swell roll into it, it straight marched in, right through the front door, went into the fridge, grabbed the last beer, and slapped your mama!! That swell came a chargin...and so did the big wave guys just frothing to get out there.  Light southerly winds, a clean, building swell, & not the entire winter tour circus in town quite yet.  Shit this is why we live here year round, especially throught the crappy flat summers, but damn, 30' Jaws in October?!!!

The recent transition back to paddle in, away from tow-ins, has made the Jaws lineup a bit more manageable, less hectic for sure, and kind of ante'd up the pot so to speak.  Guys aren't whipping into bombs as much these days.  It takes a little more skill and lot more cojones to paddle into one of those monsters.  Lucky for us, cause along with this trend is some amazing surfing, and amazing footage.  By the end of the day, after numerous amazing rides, it was evident that this first big swell of the Hawaiian winter season allowed the paddle-in crew to set a new benchmark.

Among standouts Shane Dorian, Makua Rothman, Mark Healey, Ian Walsh, and Albee Layer, renowned big wave surfer Greg Long also couldn't miss the opportunity at Jaws and was amazed by the level of surfing. "I think some of the biggest waves that have been paddled into, some of the best barrels that have been ridden, and a lot of them. By all accounts it was one of the best days of big wave paddle surfing ever.

Greg spoke a little about what went down that day, and what to expect next:

It seems like every session now we're left wondering how the bar could possibly get pushed any higher, and then something happens and it just keeps going. In this case the swell happened very early in the season, setting a benchmark for everything to come, so that's makes things really interesting this year. I think everybody at Jaws was left wondering what's next. We'll have to see what we get.

On the evolution of the equipment:
The changes in board design happens incrementally. You can't make big drastic changes because if you do and it doesn't work you suffer the consequences. So we've been slowing working with rocker and outlines, but it's a long process. I think the biggest thing lately is that I've started adapting from a three-fin setup to a quad. The thruster's still very good in some conditions, but the quad's the thing that I've really changed up. 

On the safety factor:
The inflatable wetsuit that Shane Dorian and Billabong have developed has really made a big difference. Everybody's wearing them now. And we also make sure we are paying water patrol guys, specific people, to watch over us. We don't do it unless we make sure we have an extra set of eyes on us. It's a constant process of refinement, but safety's always our number one concern. Also, I've been developing some new technology with a few people that could really take things to the next level. We should be getting our first prototypes soon so we can begin testing and getting it out there this winter. I don't really want to talk too much about it right now, but it's something I'm really excited about.

On the next generation of big-wave surfers:
I couldn't be more excited. I think there was a bit of a generation gap there. I came up looking up to guys like Peter Mel and some of those Maverick's pioneers. They're all in their 40s now. Then there's guys like Mark Healey, Ian Walsh, my brother and me and a bunch of others, we're all in our 30s. I've always wondered where the generation below ours was. It seems there's kind of a hole there. But the guys on Maui in their late teens and early 20s, guys like Albee Layer, Walsh's brothers, Billy Kemper, they're so good out there. Albee backdoors every other wave, it's incredible. And they're at the top of their game in anything from two feet to 20, which says a lot about their talents.

For more of this article and more insane video of these 2 amazing days click here



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