Wednesday, August 20, 2014 596-SURF , 596-WAVE , 922-BONG , 638-RUSH , 572-SURF(MAUI) , 241-SURF (KAUAI) , 324-RUSH (BIG ISLAND)
   
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A personal and heavy surf story by Garrett McNamara

 
Back in the day Getting ready for #Nazare This was one of the biggest waves I've ever encountered. It was at Mavericks the day Suzan Casey came to visit for her book the wave. Getting out was virtually impossible due to fog thick as pea sup.
After waiting a while @john_john_florence and I finally got the balls to navigate our way out as we got to the line up the sky parted it was weird a little hole only over the line up you couldn't see out and you couldn't see in but the line up was clear. As we got closer a monster came in and Flee was on it he barely made it to the bottom and then just fell back the monster exploded on him he came out of the explosion laying back some how stood up and made it. @john_john_florence said "that gave me the shivers". To this day I've never heard any one say that about a wave. Ok so on the wave in the pic I rode it for a few football fields in the channel thinking I got whipped to early and there was no way to g...et to the ledge. It was the weirdest most massive swell and some how connect it as I dropped down the ledge I dragged my hand on the wall trying to get barreled wrong move!!! It it sucked me back up to the top as I free fell back down at mock speed I couldn't set the rail In this moment I am rolling up the windows couldn't turn and got lit up by the biggest wave I've ever encountered at Mavs it was so violent dark and cold when finally surfacing I was dizzy beyond and had no idea which way was up
Luckily Kealii was there to rescue me or I cod have ended up on the rocks!!! Oh yea it was @john_john_florence first look at Mavs I think he was about 16

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