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7am OBs Tuesday 9/1 powered 'Catch Fire' Sunday Sept 6th @Surfer, the Bar

Mostly cloudy. Nearly calm & filling NW winds 10-20. Hi Surf Warnings for East shores.

Up & rising on the Big ENE Ignacio swell. SSW down with glassy conditions for now. Call the SNN Hotline 596-SURF.

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North Shore:

Up and rising on the 13 sec ENE. rising later from the West. Sunset is 1-3' and Rocky Pt is 1-2.5'; Pipe rights at 1-2' Ehukai etc better & Chuns is down to thigh high on the WNW. Laniakea is 2-3' but NW winds & bumpy; cloudy.
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West:

Down on the SSW/WNW, no ENE wrap yet. 1-2' at Makaha with lite onshore NW winds plus seabreeze mush mixing afternoon; cloudy.
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Town:

Down and Holding on a 13 sec SW. Surf's 1-2' mostly or waist high sets at Bowls; it's glassy with lite NW side-offshores coming; clouds.
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Diamond Head:

Down and Holding on the 13 sec SW and SSE @ 1-2' mostly and a chance of chest drops with smooth water then lite NW offshores; good form at Right hands/Cliffs/Lite House etc; cloudy.
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Sandy's:

Up & rising on the ENE and down on the S-SW @ 3-5' and bigger later. Full Pt. etc has 5' sets; it's G Narly at 1/2 Pt. but it's smooth yet heavy all the way to Gas Chambers; lite NW winds so it's really decent; cloudy.
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East Makapu'u:

Up and Rising ENE Ignacio swell and is 4-6 occ 7 and likely peaking at 8' at 13 seconds; so its chunky and powerful washing out Keiki's side. texture is real decent so it's good for the experts; pretty cloudy.

Weather

Tuesday
with="64"

Temp
min:
77°F
max: 89°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
13mph NW

Wednesday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 90°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
13mph SSW

Thursday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 89°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
13mph S

Friday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 89°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
8mph S

Saturday
with="64"

Temp
min:
76°F
max: 89°F

Chance of Rain

Wind:
8mph E

Range:
5-15+mph NW
Tropical Storm conditions, rain later
Range:
5-15mph SW

Range:
5-15mph S

Range:
5-10mph Light/Var
seabreezes midday-afternoon
Range:
5-7mph Light/Var
W flow

North

Tuesday
09/01
E-NE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Rising
8' 13 sec; bumpy, cloudy
Wednesday
09/02
COMBO
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Rising
NNE 9' 12 sec + NNW 5' 9sec
Thursday
09/03
NE
Haw: 1-3+
Face: 2-5+
Rising

Friday
09/04
E-NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising
sketchy 4' 12 sec; Jimenez
Saturday
09/05
E-NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Rising
sketchy 5' 12 sec
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West

Tuesday
09/01
COMBO
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Rising
slightly bumpy, clear; mushy later
Wednesday
09/02
S-SW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising
1' 16 sec SSW + 3' NE wrap
Thursday
09/03
S-SW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Rising
2' 14 sec
Friday
09/04
S-SW
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +
Rising
new 2' 20 sec SSW forerunners + NE
Saturday
09/05
S-SW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Holding
3' 16 sec SSW + NE
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South

Tuesday
09/01
S-SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Holding
2' 13 sec, lulls, clean, partly clear; bumpiness later
Wednesday
09/02
S-SW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Rising
1' 16 sec
Thursday
09/03
S-SW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Rising
2' 15 sec + 1' 18 sec SSW later
Friday
09/04
S-SW
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Rising
2' 20 sec + 2' 12 sec
Saturday
09/05
S-SW
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Holding
3' 16 sec
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east

Tuesday
09/01
E-NE
Haw: 5-8
Face: 8-14
Rising
Hi surf warnings, 8' 13 sec: Hurricane Ignacio peaks today
Wednesday
09/02
NE
Haw: 5-7
Face: 8-12
Dropping

Thursday
09/03
NE
Haw: 2-5
Face: 3-8
Dropping
forerunners Hurricane Jimenez
Friday
09/04
E-NE
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7
Rising
4' 12 sec sec; Hurricane Jimenez
Saturday
09/05
E-NE
Haw: 3-5
Face: 5-9
Holding
5' 12sec
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Current Swells:

Tuesday   09/01
Primary: Rising  E-NE  5-7' surf @ 13 sec
Secondary: Holding  S-SW  1-2+ surf at 13 sec
Third: Rising Evening  N-NW  2' surf 8 sec
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Marine Warnings:

Tuesday   09/01
High surf Warnings for East shores and high surf advsry's for adjacent (NE-SE) shores.
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Sailing Report:

Tuesday   09/01
Poor to Fair early but better later with devil NW winds filling in 10-20mph
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Diving Report:

Tuesday   09/01
Best bet out west. Fair/good for South. Poor, NO GO for east and poor to fair for N due to NE swell rising. , especially the increasing hurricane swell. Watchout/stay out: dirty brownish waters.

Oahu

SUNSET
Tuesday   09/01
NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
NW winds
slightly bumpy

ROCKY POINT
Tuesday   09/01
NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
NW winds
slightly bumpy

Pipeline
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
NW winds
slightly bumpy
Ehukai bigger
HALEIWA
Tuesday   09/01
NE
Haw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
NW winds
slightly bumpy
stay out of isolated brown water
MAKAHA
Tuesday   09/01
S-SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
NW winds
slightly bumpy

ALA MOANA
Tuesday   09/01
S-SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
NW winds
fair to good

Waikiki
Tuesday   09/01
S-SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
NW winds
fair to good

Diamond Head
Tuesday   09/01
S-SW
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
NW winds
fair to good

Sandy Beach
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 3-6+
Face: 5-10+
NW winds
fair to good
NE+SSW
Makapuu
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 5-8
Face: 8-14
NW winds
fair to good
+ later

Maui

Hookipa
Tuesday   09/01
NE
Haw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
NW winds
fair to good
stay out of isolated brown water
Honolua
Tuesday   09/01
NE
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
NW winds
fair to good
stay out of isolated brown water
Kihei
Tuesday   09/01
COMBO
Haw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
NW winds
smooth

Hana
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 4-8
Face: 6-14
NW winds
good

Lahaina
Tuesday   09/01
S-SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
NW winds
smooth

Kauai

Hanalei
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
NW winds
fair to good

Majors
Tuesday   09/01
COMBO
Haw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
NW winds
slightly bumpy

Poipu
Tuesday   09/01
E-SE
Haw: 4-6 occ 8
Face: 6-10 occ 14
NW winds
smooth
isolated reefs only; beaches closed
Kapaa
Tuesday   09/01
NE
Haw: 5-8
Face: 8-14
NW winds
fair to good
beaches closed

Big Island

Hamakua Coast
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 4-6 occ 8
Face: 6-10 occ 14
NW winds
fair to good

Kohala
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 2-3 occ +
Face: 3-5 occ +
NW winds
fair to good

Kona
Tuesday   09/01
S-SW
Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
NW winds
smooth

Hilo
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 4-8
Face: 6-14
NW winds
good

Kau
Tuesday   09/01
E-NE
Haw: 3-6+
Face: 5-10+
NW winds
good

Weather

Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet

Big Picture

Big Picture Tuesday update 8/25/15

NPAC
The majority of the Jet is far above the Aleutians and some trough off Japan. High pressure is established off to the NE but trades haven’t competed well against the effects of Kilo and nearby troughing.
The tough off Japan deepened this week right as Atsani recurves from the tropics up into the subtropics (a gender bender) merging with and feeding off the energy creating a long lasting fun but downgraded WNW.

Recent and current: Today we see a and that ongoing West up to 3’ for Chuns etc thanks to Typhoon Atsani (8/13-8/24) and this storm will gift us at the end of the upcoming week as it becomes a cold core extra Tropical Low in the NPAC. Read below. Plus there’s a tiny 2’ NE at 9 sec for Laniakea.

Next: Kilo and Loke may add in subtle West energy under Atsani.

Next: Former Atsani spins off Japan from its NE track with 45’ seas as its veers ENE reaching 500 miles off the dateline .Most the energy points off to the NE as Atsani tracks N again and wanes. But a 3-5’ WNW surf at 16-18 sec should fill Friday and peak Saturday before fading Sunday.

Next: A small Low tracking down from the Gulf of Alaska should push down some 4’ surf at 11 seconds Tuesday Sept 1st and last into Thursday morning.

Last: A broader Gulf Low spins up Aug 31st but has an ESE track. We should still see some NE swell around the 5th of Sept. Chance of ENE swell from 12-E below but it’s too early to claim.

SPAC:

Recent and current: Several sources. We currently have a fun solid 2+’ WSW from Atsani and SSE swell from French Polynesia. This was good for last weekend for the Dukes 125th B Day Oceanfest and the NoRep Hawaiian Surfing Championships.

Next: More SSE fills Wednesday from near Tahiti 5 days ago again and this will last into Friday adding to this will be a SSW.

Next: A quick zonal Low near the Ross Ice Shelf last week should bring in some 1-2+ Friday from the SSW at 16 seconds. With the SSE Mix we’ll see solid 3’ or head high waves into the weekend.

Next: This Monday-Wed a huge Low tracks east from under Australia and out to the SE of NZL by Wednesday the 26th. Seas are about 30’ but the zonal track will limit surf to 2-3’ from the SSW with 16 seconds filling all day Thursday Sept 1st and peaking Wed-Thursday 2nd-3rd with a good chance at some just overhead sets.

Next/last: A powerful storm rises NE off the Ross Ice Shelf SE of NZL with some 40’ seas Friday the 28th. It broadens with a huge area of winds allowing for the consolidation of open ocean sea growth. WW3 long range often run hot or overcalls on its initial output and have started to downgrade each day for a few days. But, we’ll go ahead and claim good SSW swell to kick off September. Its rise all day Thursday the 3rd and peak reefs hitting up to 5’ surf from the SSW at 16-18 sec later Friday peaking Saturday the 5th.

Windward:

Recent and current: Surfs been good with off and on pulses from the NE. Other than that we’ve had the typical range of 2 and 3’ Wind swell. The High to the NE is stable and allowing for upstream fetches and 8-9 seconds which means better refraction esp for spots in the country and to the NE. Large surf likely from 12-E below 9/5.
Tropics: Most models predict a tropical cyclone, likely Twelve-E, to approach the islands from the southeast by early next week. While it was much too early to speculate about the possible track and effects, the moisture surge surrounding the cyclone may produce significant effects anyway, as the events of Kilo the last couple of days demonstrated. Many models also predicted the trough aloft to dig toward the islands over the weekend. Thus, early next week may well start with another concentrated bout of convection.

Next: Looks like models are saying 12-E will resemble a hurricane early next week. WW3 calling for a fast huge ramp up in close interval ENE surf Sat the 5th at 12’ 11 seconds. Warnings will go up if the long range comes true. This is just a heads up. Today, the National Hurricane Center is issuing advisories on Tropical Depression Twelve-E, located well east-southeast of the Islands.


Hurricanes so far….

Andres
Blanca
Carlos
Dolores Enrique Felicia
Guillermo Hilda Ignacio Jimena Kevin Linda
Marty Nora Olaf Patricia Rick Sandra
Terry Vivian Waldo Xina York Zelda









FETCH: Often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water or distance over which a given wind direction has blown. Fetch length along with the wind speed (or strength) determines the size of waves produced. The longer the fetch length and the faster the wind speed, the larger and stronger the wave will be and vice versa.
CAPTURED or FOLLOWING FETCH: Not only does the fetch length determine the power and energy of the wave. Additionally, if the winds/fetch are blowing in the same direction as during the wave's or storm's lifetime, the wave will in turn be even stronger. The fetch is related to the orbit of the wave and track of the storm.The longer the wind drags along the sea the more energy the wave will have. This can be seen not just in vertical height measurement but in wave period (the measurement of waves through time).
WAVES PERIOD:Time, in seconds, between the passage of consecutive wave crests past a fixed point. In general the longer the period the bigger the wave. Windswell or 'close interval' swells are under 10 seconds. Big 'ground swells' are 17-20+ seconds (note: a 20+ second swell needs storm force 50+kt winds blowing over a 1500 mile fetch to be fully developed' into 20-25' beasts; these 20 second waves can be felt 1000 feet down!). This is why they jack so much more, pulling large amounts of H2O off the outer reefs.

More generic marine definitions click this link http://www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/marinedef.php

....All surf height observations and forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.

Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores 15 Feet (8') 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet (4'+) 12 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet (7') 20 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet (4'+) 15 Feet

Surfer's Wall Photos

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